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16 mpg sounds quite a bit low unless you live with the throttle buried. I'd try a good tune-up (wires, plugs, cap and rotor) and check timing. Be sure the advance is functioning too as that can have a marked affect on economy.

There is no true a/f adjustment with the SU (not easy anyway). It is dependent upon which needle you are using. You would need a large selection of needles and a good analyzer to acheive balanced a/f. Even then it would only apply to your engine as is. Any changes would throw it off again. I believe the typical needle is N47 while others use the SM. The latter provides more fuel across the rpm range typically for modified engines. Use a good unisyn to balance the carbs and adjust for stable idle around 750 rpms. The trumpets look cool but you'll wear out rings and cylinder walls in short order running these without any filters.

Don't assume anything. Fluids (new gas, oil, coolant). Cables properly connected and grounds installed. Car in park or neutral (LOL). A key or screwdriver helps. Parking brake set. Return spring(s) and linkage on the carbs in place. Take time to go over every bolt one more time. It is easy to miss the obvious. A fire extinguisher on hand is always a smart move. If you're using an electic fuel pump energize to check for leaks prior to firing the engine up. Spin the engine over with the coil wire pulled to build some oil pressure and look for fuel leaks prior to firing it up. DO it outside in case there is a serious problem so you don't burn the house/garage down. Sounds silly but it has happened.

I had a machinist use some K-monel material. It was handy and had the proper ID. Any steel material would work. Don't use an alloy such as aluminum or copper as these are too soft and would probably allow the ring gear to loosen over time. As Jon states, these bushings MUST NOT extend beyond the mating surfaces of the diff. The ring gear MUST seat tightly to the diff flange. Things would go bad quickly otherwise.

The top provides two unused flat surfaces. You can cut access here and weld patches later.

Drilling and tapping is an option. I had a set of bushings (10mm ID/12mm OD x 12mm long) made to fit my J30 LSD into an early R200 diff.

Jon has it right. Unless you have really clean metal and finesse it is difficult to fit in patches without it showing. I will cut the patch to fit tight. I then add a few small overhanging vertical pieces spotted onto the patch to hold it flush in the hole. I few spot welds will fix the patch (from the viewed side)and I remove those vertical pieces. I SLOWLY spot weld the whole patch holding the gun at a radical angle to reduce/eliminate burnthrough and heat buildup. I will then weld from the opposite side (unviewed) to build up the weld. Finally, I can grind down the viewed side close to, if not, flush with few or no pinholes. Some body filler and paint finishes the job.

There is quite a bit of room to work with under the Z dash. Of course, it does require the removal of the dash for fabbing up the mounts. The Miata is so small it seems reasonable that it should fit in there. By default, it should perform a lot better than the 70's a/c offered from the factory. It just a matter of making measurements to ensure the evaporator/heater core/fan assembly will fit into the space allowed. Keep us updated and please take lots of detailed pictures to post.

Just PM'd you looking to get one.

You either love or hate Sanderson. I had a $400 set for 4.3 V6. The quality was subpar. Only the Jethot coating was done with any quality consideration. They burned through at the primary/collector joints in 6 months. This was a stock engine running the stock ecm/harness and full emissions. Tony kept saying it was my engine running lean. He would not offer any help except to sell me another set at $400 again. F**K him and his company. I ended up modifying a set of factory s/s manifolds. That was over 6 years ago and they are still running strong. As to the subject, I have used Permatex grey or black hi-temp sealant on thick flanged machined flat header flanges without a gasket and had no problems.

Nice setup. I ran a similar arrangement on my Land Rover. Unfortunately, the Willwood slave cylinder lasted only about 10 months. I ended up fabbing a bracket to use a conventional push type slave cylinder. It has lasted over three years without any more issues. I hope you have better luck with your Wilwood unit.

Yep, if it is under pressure you will get the outflow of R12 and oil. Watch your eyes and skin! There should be a schrader valve for a/c service. You can pull the dust cap and bleed off pressure there too. It isn't a matter of police or environmentalists either. It is a known fact that R12 is destructive to the environment. While your little bit doesn't seems like much imagine about 30 million people with the same mentality doing the same thing. My two cents worth.

What are the actual specs on your pistons (diameter, pin height, ring thickness, etc)? I'm using a LD block and crank with L20B rods to build a 2.9 or maybe a 3.0 liter. The LD block has 84.5mm stock bore and I plan on going up to 86mm depending on sonic test results. The other issue is head gasket. The felpro is 1.25mm compressed and the Nismo is 2mm. I understand Nismo 1mm is NLA. Is there another gasket option I'm missing or failed to find in 'searching'? Do your pistons protrude above deck? What gasket did you decide upon to get to your final compression ratio?

Let me clarify. I don't use sealant on head gaskets (except copper paste on all metal if recommended by the manufacturer). I only use a sealant on exhaust if no gasket is normally used.

I use Permatex ultra grey or black on practically everything including the exhaust (if needed). The grey is actually higher temp rated. Unlike RTV it will adhere to any clean surface and itself.

I assume you are referring to the tube on the left side of the block? It attaches to the PCV valve if this what you refer to. It is press fit. You could slightly distort the tube to tighten the fit.

How is the gap half way down the bore? I can't imagine taper that bad but... I'm thinking the these are not the correct rings for the application.

I run a MagnaFlow 2.5 in/out x 16" for a resonator and a MagnaFlow 2.5 in/out 14" oval in rear. The rest of the the exhaust is a Janspeed 6-2-1 s/s header 2" out and opening to 2.5" just before the resonator. All the piping is s/s. It is exceptionally quiet for a slightly modified 2.4 L6. I have thought of sliding a short split s/s tube inside the resonator to increase the volume. The best part there is no drone at all at any rpm but it has that rich euro sound under full load.

Green was also used for the York style a/c compressor mounting bracket. I still have studs in my block for this. Pay attention to the back lifting bracket (if there). It is attached by the last exhaust manifold stud. It will pull out of the head stripping the hole on the way. I'd suggest using the upper bellhousing bolt instead. That is provide the strength needed and then some. That bracket attached to the fuel pump location is for lifting the engine.

ZR8Ed, that is the very idea I'm looking at! In fact, I'm working with a friend to produce a miniature fiberglass BRE spoiler for this location. After looking at the later 280ZX car body lines and aerodynamics I am convinced. This one small application will reduce lift at high speed (better handling AND keeps the hatch down reducing leaks around the hatch gasket) and moves the vortexs further out back reducing exhaust ingestion. The look fits the body lines too. Several upper deck spoilers could be made to match the variety of rear spoilers available. I really hope testing of this simple add-on can be completed in the windtunnel. It should be made in an inverted V pattern to provide enough stiffness to withstand applied forces though.

Only if the PO installed one.

I just donated $100 to the project. It was painful as it comes out of my custom stroker piston funds (and my daughter really wants a video iPod too). That will take some time to make back up. Please try my mini BRE spoiler on the rear hatch upper lip during your testing. I am looking forward to the complete test results to come. It will make for good reading and application.

I'll be donating today. Like so many my funds are tight especially since I'm a single dad trying to raise an expensive 11 y.o. girl AND support my addictive hobby (where's the lottery win when you need it?). Anyhow, I would like to see what happens at the rear of the car if a short (1 to 2 inches high) BRE style spoiler is attached at the upper leading edge of the rear hatch with or without a rear BRE style spoiler. Maybe someone could tape on a heavy cardboard inverted V to replicate this? My thoughts are this would disrupt the smooth transition down the hatch reducing high speed lift. It should also move the vortex further out back from the tail reducing the exhaust ingestion we are so fond of. It would look pretty darn cool too. Maybe some minature vortex generators in the same location could be tired? Please have your ducks in a row so as many variables,front and rear, can be tested in the limited time available...like I had to actually say that.

I use 308 and straight argon to weld stainless. Play with some scrap because it does behave different than mild steel.

I use speed bleeders as these make this job much quicker and easier. That said, if you're using the conventional bleed screws that is fine. Use a tight fitting hose long enough the sit in a collection bottle with 2" inches of brake fluid already in there. This will aid in determining if the air is bled and helps reduce air being drawn back into the caliper/wheel cylinder. Tighten everything down and pump the brakes. If there is a leak you should find it weeping at one or more connections. Never let the MC go empty once you've started the process. Lastly, if you haven't bled the MC properly then all else is wasted effort.