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In Portsmouth, Virginia. Maybe you've heard of Virgina Beach (about 10 miles from me. It is at the SE corner at the opening of the Chesapeake Bay.

Well, I kinda expected no response but thought I'd throw the request out there anyway. I called David at Courtesy and he looked up some parts for me. It appears that all of these gears are available and reasonably priced by my measure. There were two 5 speeds in my garage (wide and close ratio) and I've picked up another close ratio and KA. The wide ratio (77) is built and ready to install. The close ratios (81-83) will be built up as will the KA (89 240SX) with a 280ZX bellhousing (professional machined to use the KA countershaft bearing). My kits use only Nachi and Koyo bearings and new brass syncros. The support roller bearings are not replaced as these rarely show signs of damage but would be should it prove necessary. The cases are sandblasted using 100 grit aluminum oxide and throughly washed. I use Permatex hi-temp gray RTV silcone to seal the all joints. The finished tranny is degreased and sprayed with aluminum paint to make it pretty and seal the pores of the casing. I'll probably install a close ratio or KA in my 240Z and sell the others if someone is interested. The early 5 speed already in my 240Z (may be a comp box or from a sedan) will also be rebuilt and stored for future use.

Has anyone got a trashed 81-83 5 speed with good reverse and reverse idler gears? I'm rebuilding a box and it seems the PO liked to engage reverse while the car was still moving forward. These gears are in poor condition and I want to replace them before completing the rebuild. There are couple of boxes at the PNP but I haven't got time to get there before the cars are crushed (another damn shame). Thanks in advance.

I personally hate muffler clamps but they are fully functional and cheap. If you do use these try to get close fitting clamps and only tighten enough to prevent leaks. Everyone tends to crush the piping to death. I would use the strap style clamps if possible. These will provide a good seal and allow the system to be disconnected for service You may consider doing a temp install and marking the piping with a permanent marker for depth and alignment. The parts can be welded at a local shop and refitted to the car. I use two slip joints and a V-coupling in my system for easy dismantling.

It has to be going somewhere either out the exhaust or into the oilpan. One alternative is the rad cap (you say it's new though) is failing and allowing coolant to overflow. Maybe the overflow tank is leaking too? I'd do a pressure test of the coolant system. Some of those plugs also look mighty clean which would typically indicate lean burn, excess advance or coolant ingestion to the cylinder(s).

I believe it is a straight bolt in. That is assuming that this maxima is equipped with a L6 engine (petrol or diesel).

I picked up a KA tranny from the local PNP yesterday for $92.00. It came out of a 90 200SX. Sadly, I need to return it. When I broke it open last night the syncros and bearings were shot beyond imagination. 1st, 5th/reverse, and reverse idler gears were heavily damaged. There was enough metal in the bottom of the case to fill a teaspoon and then some. The kid driving the car must have been suffering from delusions of grandeur thinking he was some kind of super race car driver. I wonder if he ever used the clutch! You could actually move the countershaft away from the mainshaft such that the gears would nearly disengage. As for the bellhousing, I will take my 280Z housing to my machinist and have the bearing opening enlarged, the face milled .038 inches, and the 1/2 rod hole reamed to size.

What car? I would highly suspect old caked grease, rust, and grime at each point in the wiper arm assembly and in the motor gearhead . A really good cleaning is in order. It isn't terribly hard but is time consuming. Even new, the S30 wiper system was the pits.

That one on ebay for $125 also requires $125 to ship! That's a lot of money for a rare but damaged unit. I tried to get him to ship it to me months ago at my expense (and fully insured to cover any additional damage or loss) to make a plug for reproduction. He never got back to me. He's tried to sell it for many many weeks now. These hood scoops are loved or hated. I personally think it adds an aggressive look and would mount a good one to my Z.

I run an early Nismo R180 LSD w/4.11:1 r&p. It's mated to a lightly modded 2.4 and type-A 5-speed. It makes for brisk driving and rapid gear changes. Not much for off-the-line racing but very zippy for curves, corners, and road racing.

You can purchase a set of L20B (U60) rods from me if you'd like. They are not cheap and are becoming more scarce than the infamous V07 LD28 crankshaft. PM me if interested and we'll discuss the costs.

I run a 16" magnaflow resonator (4" OD) and a 14" Magnaflow muffler. The system is a Janspeed S/S header 6-2-1 that necks up from 2" to 2.5" (at the collector end) all the way out the back (all S/S mandrel bent tubing). It has a nice drone and is VERY quiet with a european tone especially at WOT. There is NO interior drone (yippee). I plan to insert a small length of split sleeve into the resonator to increase exhaust volume up to but before interior drone becomes an issue.

I'm able to purchase rebuild kits for a lot less than Drivetrain charges. If anyone needs a kit let me know and I'll try to assist in getting it for a better price.

I have a rebuild kit for an early 280Z which includes the first motion shaft housing gasket. Since it was opened long ago I assumed the other gaskets had been misplaced. I'm a fan of Permtex hi-temp gray sealant and will use it at the case seams as Jon has suggested. Thanks again.

Excellent and thanks, Cozy!

I know I'm lazy. Does anyone have the part numbers and/sources for the gaskets required to rebuild my ZX 5 speed tranny? I looked over at Black Dragon and MSA but didin't see anything.

Received my mount on Friday. It is a nice piece of work and well worth the meager cost! Maybe I'll get it installed this week. It will be great eliminating one more weak point in the driveline.

Sounds reasonable enough to me.

Three problems come to mind. Possible hood clearance issues and NO injector bungs. The first may require lowering the engine slightly and the second a trip to the machine shop. Third, you'll also need to weld on a plate for the throttle body unless it's mounted remotely. Lots of if's that will need closer examination. The diesel intake has the longer runners and they are larger diameter than the stock L28 runners too. I might try this on my LD28 stroker I'm going to build. It's on my long "to do" list.

I installed Ross' brackets. I may have to pull the PS bracket back off for some minor machine work. Apparently, either the rear housing is poorly machined, Ross' bracket is slightly out of kilter or the outer pad is not seating flush. The outer pad is wearing at a severe angle (haven't looked at the inner pad yet). Enough to not allow the outer pad to contact 33% of the the rotor closest to the inner circumference. I imagine the outer area of the rotor is not contacted on the inner side either. I'll have to break it down and look. This is NOT to discredit Ross or MM as I very pleased with parts I've bought from him. I've never heard bad commentary regarding him or his products. In fact, I hope to purchase rear control arms as soon as I can convince myself to spend another $$$ for the 240Z.

220V, 120 gallon tank/7hp two stage Speedaire on@125psi/off@175psi. I can run a bayflex sander (7" disc) continually until the compressor kicks and it will run, catch up and shut off again without letting up on the bayflex. I built it 15 years ago for about $900. You can't have enough tank volume and compressor size. I learned that by burning up two much smaller compressors years before.

I can't wait to get R/T mount in the mail. I konw I should do a search but what GM P/N is used for the actual motor mount?

This is too funny. I purchased my 240Z about three years ago and drove it 500 miles to get it home. The brakes were stiff and I accounted that to the old system. Having driven older trucks and cars I am accustom to hard brakes. Well, I almost immediately put the car on jack stands to replace the struts and springs and do some modifications including upgraded brakes. I installed the 15/16 280Zx MC, vented discs/280Z calipers up front and solid discs/240SX calipers out back. Braking improved but pedal pressure was still hard and stiff. I decided to upgrade to the 280Z booster. I 'thought' I percieved better braking but it was still very stiff and hard. Mind you, I only drive this car about 30 miles a month depending on the weather (NO rain). The other day I had the chance to drive a friend's 280Z. This was the only other Z I've ever driven. The difference in compliance and, especially braking, was hugh. The series I and II 240Z's are definately true sports cars. I drove home convinced that something had to be wrong. My friend, Wayne, suggested I look at the vacuum check valve to be sure it wasn't installed wrong. Two days past and I finally got around to it. Sure enough, the valve was backwards from the P.O. and I never checked it out. A quick down the road at speed and I applied the brakes. Holy crap! I almost threw myself into the dash! The damn car nearly stopped in it's own length. It cracks me up that something so simple had eluded me for months on end. Now I wonder how well the original brakes would have performed if that check valve had been installed correctly the first time.

The wrapped shim will work fine as long as it is not a soft material that can squish. The tighter the gap the better. The whole idea is not allowing the ring gear to rotate upon the face of the diff. Without the bushings you are hoping that only clamping forces prevent this movement. If it does move then it is possibly/probably just a matter of time before the bolts shear because clamping forces would not have been adequate. I personally prefer to err to the side of caution because problems here would cost a lot to repair. Any machine shop could pump these bushings out with ease.

I'd contact the Smokey Mountain Z club (I believe that's it) and/or contact Roger over at 'The Z Barn' in Knoxville for leads.