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I have been searching through several posts here and other sites. I have a Nismo R180 LSD that I installed R180A (early 720 4x4) 6-bolt side flanges into. Now I'm interested in installing a R200 LSD. I don't want to reinvent the adapters in order to fit my custom Porsche 930 CV axles. Is there a snap-in side flange for the R200 that uses this early 6-bolt pattern or am I back to square one for the inner adapters?

Do you have an industrial parl anywhere near you? I buy quality 4" cutoff wheels locally for about $1.05 a piece. I purchase a box of a hundred at a time but the price remains the same. These are the thin wheels (I'm thinking around .035 thick) that cut faster with less dust (relatively speaking). For rapid metal removal I use my Metabo grinder and a heavy 4" wheel. Today I use a chop saw or plasma cutter for most of my work. It's quicker and usually cleaner too.

I hope I can acquire enough. The old trucks are out there. Scrap metal pulls in so much cash now that all of the local yards are crushing much of their old inventory. I'll keep looking and asking until I can get it all together.

On the later turbo motors there is an additional water jacket hole just behind the second to last head bolt on the manifold side (located between the 5th and 6th cylinders). This hole must be covered to prevent a leak. The later head gasket accomodates this while the earlier gaskets do not. A photo of the difference can be seen in the "How to modify the Datsun L6" within the first few pages. I can only assume that all later blocks using the P90 or P90A head required this gasket and maybe other heads as well.

I'm close to having all the pieces needed to build my supercharged 2.9 using the LD block, LD crank, L20B rods and P90A mechanical lifter head. I figure to use a stock L28ET headgasket. The SG is a roots style Eaton M62. It will be injected and controlled by a SDS EMF-6 setup. The last major item required to build the long block is the custom forged pistons. I have 40.05 compression height to work with. The pin is 21mm. Should I look at reproducing the land thickness and ring type of the L28ET? The pistons in the L20B have very thick rings which might be better suited to a SG? How about skirt length? Anyone who has piston specs from their builds and is willing to share that info would be greatly appreciated. The compression ratio I'm looking for is around 8.3 for 5-8 psi boosting. I've never bought truly customized pistons so it's a very foreign place for me. Thanks for any help on the subject.

I'm backkkk... I am acquiring L20B rods bit by bit. Yesterday I bought a L20B from a mid 70's truck headed for the crusher! It was a total rust bucket and had actually collapsed upon itself. I could see the oil pan and stopped the frontloader operator just in time. The engine was pulled down last night. The whole engine was in great shape just worn out. I pressed out a wrist pin today to allow comparsion of all three rod types. The L20B rod look just like the 240Z rod only 12.9mm longer. I'll post pictures of the three rods side by side tonight. I hope to get two complete sets so someone else can opt in for building one of these. There is already a spare timing cover from this engine. A fellow in AZ(?) is going to ship me another set of four this coming week. Some folks over on the Datsun 510 and 1200 sites are trying to help me get the extra rods. Now to look into custom forged pistons.

Even with the 227.45 deck height of the LD28 block and a L28 crank's 79mm you're left with only 21mm of compression height using a 167mm rod. That's only 10mm (<.5") of usable space if you keep the wrist pin out of the oil control ring land. I don't see how it could possibly be done and last anytime.

I took a 240Z rod (9mm bolt) and a LD28 rod into the quality control/calibration labs at work this morning. Using a digital scale I came up with the following overall and small end weights. 240Z 710gm 200gm LD28 784gm 260gm The small end was weighed placing a pencil through the big end and trying to keep it level while the small end rested on the scale. It wasn't scientific but should be reasonably close for comparison purposes. There is only a difference of 74 grams in overall weight and 60 grams difference between small ends. Considering everything that is not a lot to be concerned with in my humble opinion. I have a set of L20B rods coming and hopefully a set of Z22E rods too (both have a length of 145.9mm) that I can also compare. My decision will rest on those parts. Right now I'm heavily leaing towards the LD28 block/crank, the L20B/Z22E rods and custom pistons (40.05mm compression height). If I use a 21mm pressed pin then I have 29.55mm for the rings/lands. If I have custom rods made then I'll go to a bigger full floating pin which will reduce the room for rings and decent lands but should still be doable. I'm heading over to Abacus Racing to talk to the owner as he has raced Datsuns/Nissans for a number of years and should be able to provide viable input to my idea.

The rods are virtually identical at the big end. The small end is obviously larger by all dimensions to accomodate the big floating pin. The diesel rod shanks are identical from the side and slightly larger across the girth. I'll have to find a means to weigh them as my triple-beam only goes up to 2610 grams. I'm guessing the small end could be narrowed and bushed for a smaller pin if desired. With a set of custom pistons a larger pin bore could be used. The full floating feature is very nice for durability and performance too. I would definiately install ARP 8mm rod bolts if I used these. Now as for the block height, the LD28 is approximately 20mm taller than the L28 block when a petrol head is installed. I took a quick look around the engine bay of my 240Z. Using a plug of modeling clay I checked for hood clearances at the valve cover, front SU dashpot and the air cleaner vane lever. In all cases a minimum of 1" was available. The block could be lowered about 8mm before the the oil pan lip interfered with the upper saddle of the passenger side steering rack. That saddle could be slightly modded to allow 10mm to 12mm of total drop. The next problem would be the front anti-sway bar to oil pump bolt. That bar could be lowered using .25" shims on both bar brackets. Lowering the block even 8mm still provides 13mm or .5" clearance from the hood using the diesel block. While that is tight it isn't a critical issue. I'm going to talk with Aguyandaredhead about those L20B rods. I'd also like to get hold of a set of L13 rods to make comparison between all. If anyone knows a source for the L13's please let me know. Also, if anyone knows of another make of vehicle that uses a rod of like dimensions I'm very interested. There has to be something out there that is still in production that could be used with little or no machining.

I haven't discounted actually using the LD28 block and crank for my new engine. This post was more in the line of separating fact from fiction. I have a set of the 240Z (9mm) rods ready to go. I am going to make a comparison of these against the LD28 rods tonight. Mack, if you're correct then there's only 2.85 ounce difference between the two rods. That isn't enough to be of concern with for all but the most demanding applications. A set of ARP bolts would certainly lower the risk of failure. Of all the rod failures I've seen in many engine makes nearly all were related to the bolts giving way. Oil pressure failure has also played heavily into rod bearing/rod bolt/rod failure. I'm not even talking about 7500+ sustained rpm or high boost failures. Wrist pin/piston failures must be taken into account for rod damages too. Enough of that rant though. Olderthanme, I understand the drive angle and u-joint issues. I'd have to work it out on paper but I don't believe dropping the front of the engine 15mm to 19mm would have any detrimental affect on the u-joints. I have the following to work with (excluding the L24 engine presently in the Z) and haven't made my mind up yet as to what configuration(s) I might choose. LD28 complete engine N42/N47 complete engine F54/P90A complete engine with dished pistons (280ZXT) F54 block L28 crankshaft P79 head L28 rods and flattop pistons L20B timing cover Lots of ancillaries to choose from... I'm leaning towards a 2.9 liter using the F54/P90A combo with the LD28 crank, 240Z rods and custom forged pistons in the 8:1 cr range for an Eaton supercharger project. This would also use either a Clifford 4 bbl intake modded for injectors or the L28 intake sliced (for the injector bungs) and tig'd to the LD28 intake (modified for a throttle body) for a unique hi-flow manifold. The manifold and head would be port matched to minimize restrictions. I'm off subject again. The LD28 could be converted to petrol using the L28 crank, LD28 rods and custom pistons with either the N47 (N/A version) or P79 (turbo'd or SC'd version). Using the LD crank and rods along with custom pistons is very interesting but I'm reluctant to drill the P90A head for 12mm bolts. I suppose bushings could be installed to use on a standard block later if need be. I'll have to look into the L20B rods too.

Just looking for openminded discussion on the subject. I've got lots of spare parts including a LD28 block. My thoughts were to use a L28 crank along with the LD28 rods in this block. Either a N47 (44cc) or P79 (53cc) head would be drilled to accept the 12mm head bolts of the LD28. I've also got the needed L20B timing cover on hand. The block would be bored to accept a custom 86mm piston (1.5mm oversized). 39.5mm (L28 crank) + 140mm (LD28 rod) = 179.5mm. LD28 block height of 227.45mm - 179.5mm = 47.95mm. That would be the piston compression height. Would that be reasonable or too tall causing excessive side loads on the piston and cylinder walls? As a side note, I know the block is taller than the L28 by 19.5mm. The motor mounts could be sliced vertically and rewelded dropping the front of the block to a manageable height. I will be pulling a rod from the LD28 to compare it side by side with a 240Z rod this evening. I'll even weigh them to provide accurate comparison. I am of the opinion that these are very usable in a petrol engine for most applications. Lastly, I do believe the LD28 rods use full-floating pins vs the pressed pin of the 240Z rod...this will be confirmed too.

What we need is a sticky dedicated to stroker builds. I'm not talking about a bunch of opinions and retoric. I mean hard facts and data from each person that has ACTUALLY built one of these. This would include every piece of pertinent info such as specific rods used, piston and rings, etc. As I've scoured the posts on builds and the one thing always missing is specifics. For example, I know most are using the stock LD crank and either L24 (ARP bolts overcome the 8mm bolt issue if the 9mm rods aren't used) or L28 rods. Many seem to punch out the block and use a factory piston. Others go the custom piston route. There is also the engine calculator that can offer different combos but doesn't tell us what advantages there are one over another. I'd like someone to list all of the specifics supplied for custom pistons for example. In my case, I want to build that 2.9 using the N42 or F54 block, P90 head, LD crank, 9mm 240Z rods, and custom pistons for a roots supercharger application pushing about 8 psi. I'm guessing that 8:1 cr is about right but don't know exactly what the piston crown should look like. I really wish those that have gone before would make a comprehensive list of the parts they used and issues they came across. Block Head Camshafts (N/A or SC'd) Head gasket Piston(s) with all specific details Rings Pins Rods Crank Assembly issues or problems Things they would have done different (detonation problems, etc. due to piston, gasket, or head choice, etc.)

Greenmonster, if you can locate that link I'd be interested. Thanks.

Excessive advance will also cause this (like a stuck vacuum advance plate).

Do a web search on "LT1 pcm edit" and you'll keep yourself busy for a bit.

I have two perfectly good F54 blocks ready to go with the stock 86mm bore. To bore either out would be a waste of money for me. There are ideals in bore and stroke as well as head work but I'm not inclined to pursue perfection at the associated costs involved. This is only for a fair weather 240Z that will not see track torture or street racing. While we're here though please elaborate on your components. I'm sure many would like to know the viable details. There are so many posts that talk about custom or alternative OEM parts being used but the essential info is often missing. What rods did you use? Were they reworked to fit? What was the pin diameter? Were they pressed or floating? How about those pistons? What was the deck height? Compression? It seems that you'd only have <28mm of crown height to work. That doesn't weem like much space for rings in anything other than a race-only engine. Please elaborate.

What is the best source for custom pistons? I contacted racetep and they were quoting $795+ for six pistons...OUCH! I'm more accustomed to SB chevy prices than these!

I meant to change the 3.0 to 2.9 but hit the post button too soon...dang. I do not want to overbore the block due to thinning of the cylinder walls and a "once use only" build. There is not enough performance difference to justify it in my mind. Thanks for the info.

It's been talked about and posted some many damn times. I've read until I'm blue in the face. I want to build a stroker using the F54 block, P90A mechanical lifter head, LD28 crank and 240Z rods. These parts are sitting in my garage ready to go. I want to keep the stock L28 bore. I don't want to bore out to 3.1 or 3.2 displacement. My reasoning is longivity and durability for an eaton M62 supercharger application pushing only 5-8 psi. There are discussions of quench, detonation, etc. Everyone has an opinion but nothing comes across as concrete information. I cannot come to any viable decision through all the fodder. I'm inclined to think I'll just have a set of slugs cast by Arias or JE or someone else to suit the L28 bore and proper pin height. Should I do something special to the piston crowns such as dish, flycut, etc. or just run them flat? I'm looking for good flame front and minimal risk of detonation.

Interesting, I have a M62 Eaton supercharger (generic) for a potential L6 project. I have yet to decide on mounting it to the manifold with a spacer/adapter (allowing it to shift forward for pulley alignment) or to the pass side where the York a/c compressor would sit. I'll have to get a serpentine pulley made to attach to the stock v-belt pulley as well as a tensioner pulley/bracket. My intake of choice at this time is a Clifford 4bbl manifold which will be modded for injectors. As for your question regarding cylinder pressurization, there should be no difference. The intake pressure will equalize throughout by default.

The obvious is the floats are not adjusted and fuel is leaking into the main body. The only other possibility is the cold start valves are not closing tightly enough but that is rarely a problem in the DHLA's. A return line is not needed but does help to prevent vapor locking.

The secret to parking is applying 12v to the ground side of the motor as the arms move to the bottom. The ground is actually removed by the deactivated relay so there is no short. There is a cammed switch and relay that does this in the S30 motor. I've looked at diagrams but the S30 wiper motor schematic leaves a lot to be desired as far as the actual stalk switch goes. I haven't looked hard enough to determine where the relay is either (probably in the pass side footwell).

Jerry over at DW Sawyers transmission shop could probably do this for you. He's located in south norfolk (actually chesapeake). There should be a shop or two on your side though. Get in touch with Tidewater Z service on your side of the river and ask.

I'm assuming this is the centrifugal part of the pressure plate. That's what mine had anyhow. Post a picture so we can make a proper determination.

I never considered moving the diff forward again. The rear control arm brackets, crossmember, and mustache bar were all reworked and powder coated. The driveshaft was lengthened too. The Type-A gearbox has a yoke output so the driveshaft physically bolts between it and the diff. For a track specific car the relocation would have some measurable effect regarding PMOI. I don't know how much difference just that 1" would make. This is a street car and I don't know that I'll ever put it on the track. I won't even drive it in the rain. My girlfriend thinks that's silly. That sounds like a shame but my Z is in such great condition I hate to stress it in racing or subject it to water and road salts. I failed to mention the Suzuki Esteem side markers wired to work as turn signals....