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11/70 240Z VIN 39939 Upgraded: Headlights to Neolite H4 with dual 30 amp relays 280ZX IR alternator Allison ignition Euro-style balance tube Cable operated throttle linkage Janspeed S/S header with full S/S exhaust (Magnaflow resonator/muffler) Powder coated valve cover, intake manifolds and air cleaner housing 5-speed type-A gearbox Nismo LSD R810 diff with 4:10 r&p and relocated 1" back Eibach Springs/Illumina shocks Interpart front and rear anti-sway bars Custom Porsche 930 CV axle assemblies 280ZX/240SX brake conversion 260Z big booster/15/16" MC RX-7 fuel pump with oil pressure and enertia switch via 30 amp relay RacingHart C2 wheels with Wanli 215/45R17 tires BRE rear spoiler MSA Aero urethane ducted front spoiler louvered inspection covers Mille Miglia Red paint

Search for alternator upgrades. An 280ZX 60 amp internal regulated alternator can be mounted directly. The external voltage regulator can then be removed. You'll need to install a couple of jumpers in the harness connector that attached to that external regulator to complete the upgrade. Jumper the white wire to the yellow wire. Also get a 1N5402 diode at Radio Shack (3 amp/ 200 volt) to install between the white/black wire and the black/white wire. The white banded end of the diode goes to the white/black wire. The diode is needed to prevent the engine from running after you turn the key to off.

Maybe http://www.digikey.com.

The V6 and V8 share many commonalities. The engineering drawings show the motor mounts identical and located equally from the front of both blocks. The V6 can be installed in the V8 location and the transmission mount will need to be moved forward as well as a longer driveshaft. The better choice would be to relocate it back about 5" (the approximate difference in block length between the V6 and V8). That would provide better balance but require some creative front mounts or brackets. I would fab plates to relocate the actual motor mounts forward to the V8 position. This would allow the use of any existing V8 conversion kit. I've run an OBDII '96 4.3 for about 8 years in my '71 land rover. Bonestock it produces 200hp and 250lb/ft. That is strong motivation for an early Z. As my latest land rover will sport a LS1 I am giving strong consideration to planting that V6 in my '71 240Z in the future.

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23101&highlight=su Look at post #6. It is not applicable regarding different fuel bowl tops but does provide the basic info required when tuning twin SU's. It should get you real close if nothing else is wrong. One more thing, if the plugs are really fouled clean or replace brfore tuning. Blip the throttle occasionally during tuning to clear the plugs of carbon.

I installed the bigger booster and a rebuilt MC this morning. My 10 y.o. girl helped me bleed the brakes (that's cool!). The brakes were upgraded to the 280ZX front calipers/300ZX vented rotors and 240SX rear calipers/300ZX non-vented rotors. The 280ZX NP-valve was modded to completely separate the front and rear systems. I took it for a spin and the brake performance is fantastic. It will come to a halt very fast. The pedal is still firm but not like before. My girlfriend could brake it without too much complaint. I'm pleased with the outcome. I'll have to drive it more to determine if a variable proportioning valve will be needed but I'm doubting it right now.

That's brilliant. I'll have to look at my calipers too. That could be the sole cause of reduced rear brake function in my 240Z.

If you have bump stops and didn't actually bend anything then you're probably okay. Get it off the ground and have a good look at things down below.

It should improve the pedal feel making it feel more like a 280ZX with the front and rear brake upgrade in the 240Z. I'm thinking the overall diaphram area is nearly doubled which equates to a lot more assistance for the 3/4" stock MC and a stock feel with the 15/16" MC. Presently, the 15/16" is heavy and requires a lot of foot pressure using the smaller 240Z booster.

I'm having problems my rear disc brakes not working well so I'm in the process of replacing the possibly faulty MC and modded the NP-valve to fully separate the front and rear brakes into individual systems. (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114918). I thought I'd try to install the larger S30 booster for less pedal effort at the same time since the brakes were much firmer than with the stock disc/drum setup. Several posts said it couldn't be done but it appeared no one had actually tried and failed. Since I had a spare 8.5" booster I thought I'd give it a go. First, the retaining bolts are spaced approximately 1" further apart on the horizonal but the vertical spread is identical at 2.75". It's really in metric but I used a basic tape measure. I did an eyeball alignment to mark the wider spaced holes to either side of the existing holes in the firewall. I then looked under the dash to ensure there was room for the nuts/washers for the new pattern. Next came the drilling. I drilled the holes in steps and then did a little bit of filing with a small round file to get slip fit of the booster. Oh yeah, I also had to slightly bend the brake and clutch lines to clear the booster. An application of sticky weatherstrip goop will seal the new booster from water leaks. The lip of the booster was lighty tapped in near the clutch MC but it may have cleared anyhow. There was ample room at the throttle bracket. I only wish I'd made a template for the holes to guide me. Damn my lack of patience! The attached photos tell the whole story.

I also think that some swap out the E-cables for that proper fit. My 240Z E-cables were like new so I opted to keep them in place.

I actually welded up the bracket slot to reduce the opening. I then used a cutoff grinder to open it up to the correct size. It is a pain as no one seems to have all the answers. I'm suspecting that various caliper brackets and/or cables were used where sometimes it happened to be an ideal match.

Okay, I gutted a 280Z NP valve. The only obvious difference to the 280ZX NP valve is the missing brake failure switch. If I reassemble with only the end bolts (no spring/piston) then the brake system is effectively reduced from a true dual setup to a single setup. I like a dual system which is still reasonably operational even if there is partial failure front or rear. If you look at the guts there is a long bolt for the front caliper section. That bolt is hollow allowing brake fluid to move from front to back balancing brake pressure via the piston/spring located in the rear caliper section. I intend to block this hole, leave out the piston/spring and reinsert both bolts. I'll swap out the 280ZX NP valve for this unit. That will separate the front and rear into individual systems retaining the dual brake properties but no proportioning at all. It should still work as the front calipers are much larger than the rear calipers. All of this because I do not have the rear braking I was hoping for. If this does not provide desired results the next step will be replacing the MC (possibly leaking internally?). Lastly, I may end up with an inline adjustable proportioning valve. Crap, I hope this works...... I want to drive, not wrench, for a while!

Terry, I'm looking at a cutaway picture of a NP valve. What exactly did you remove? I'd like to do this in the car but need to know what goes and what stays. Thanks.

Well now, I thought about the booster but that would only account for the pedal pressure if it were at fault. I'm reluctant to gut the proportioning valve but may try it anyhow. You're experienced at this stuff and if it worked for you then it should work for me. I'm assuming you used the same parts as I did? It's just a matter of disassembly, reassembly and bleeding the lines again all of which is no major problem. My original thoughts were the 280ZX MC and P valve would work well with the other parts and be a close match for the other components. I also think that maybe the MC is not applying adequate pressure due to leaking past the seal. I throw that out there because I had to clean out the MC after it refused to bench bleed but did not replace any seals. As a side note, the porsche CV jointed axles are working flawlessly.

I finally got my Z out on the road yesterday for a real world test of many upgrades. I want to comment on the Magnaflow exhaust. The tone is awesome by my standards. The idle is very low and burbling, almost non-existant. When I drive it normally through the gears it has a distinct european drone but not high pitched or annoying just deep and threatening. When I romp on the throttle and run it up to high rpm's the sound is loud but not obnxious and it is so sweet! The best part for me NO droning! No matter what rpm/gear I choose to run at there is no cabin drone at all. Outside of WOT it is not a cop calling exhaust. I'd guess it is actually too quiet for most owners in here. Maybe I can come up with a means of recording it for the masses. Are most of you just using a camcorder?

I completed the four wheel disc conversion on my 71. The parts include 280ZX front calipers/300ZX rotors and rear 240SX calipers/300ZX rotors. I also used the 280ZX 15/16" MC and the stock 280ZX four wheel disc proportioning valve. The old T-valve in the back was gutted. I used MM rear brackets and replaced all flex hoses with teflon/stainless steel braid. I have adjusted the MC pushrod close to where it needs to be (it should be damn near dead-on). The MC was disassembled and cleaned up. I don't believe there is any MC internal leakage. The brakes are fully bled and I can stop the car without panic. There are no external leaks in the system. My brakes are heavy requiring a lot of pedal pressure compared to more modern brakes. Since the car sat for nearly a year I don't recall the original pedal pressure. There is no locking up (front or rear) and it appears the rear calipers are not applying full pressure when looking at the rotor surfaces. I adjusted the cylinders and the parking brake works okay. Are there any suggestions for improving overall performance and rear caliper function for those that have gone before me?

Are you refering to door or quarter windows? What vehicle? You could be looking at aftermarket window tinting which could be removed. I don't know of any factory glass that has a plastic laminate on the outside. Even then, only the windshield is laminated (glass/plastic/glass) for safety purposes. There are a lot of people here with spare glass that is not damaged. As for your question, the glass can be polished to remove or reduce glare from minor scratches. If it looks like someone went to it with sandpaper you're better off sourcing different glass though.

Did you accidentally create an air leak between the AFM and intake? False air could cause problems like this.

This has been addressed so many times. The bottom line is you'll need to pull the interior panels to get to the vent hoses and expansion tank. You'll need to check and probably replace every gasket and grommet. You'll need to ensure there are no exhaust leaks anywhere and any missing or damaged seals or grommets at the firewall are replaced. Opinions vary but my exhaust tip extends out to just past the rear bumper . http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103301&highlight=magnaflow. See post 17 and 18. There is no easy answer or fix. After going through my 71 (EVERYTHING was replaced) and I took it for a spirited run through the neighborhood with the windows down. I used to reek of fumes and feel nausous after driving my Z any distance. Finally, there was no problem with fumes! The real test will be out on the highway once the car is aligned, inspected and tagged legally.

You can test the compressor in hand by applying 12v to the compressor lead and ground to the compressor body. That will engage the clutch. If you can rotate the compressor while the 12v is applied then the compressor is not frozen and possibly is good (could still have shot seals). I'm parting out a '77 with a fully charged a/c and the compressor is fine. I believe the compressors are the same. Someone chime in if that is not the case. If interested then PM me and we'll work out something on the cheap.

Troubleshoot. You are looking for the amperage (current) draw, not voltage, from the battery. Close the doors and ensure nothing is turned on (engine, radio, lights, etc.). Key in off position. Lift the negative lead off the battery and put a digital voltmeter between the negative post and negative lead. Polarity won't matter. Set the meter to read Ua (microamperes). If the meter indicates an error or fails to display then reset meter to Ma (milliamperes). You should see no current draw in a bone stock 73 unless you have a later radio with memory which will draw a very small current (6 or 7 Ua maybe) which will not drain a battery over a few months. You will see current draw if there is a drain on the battery. Disconnect the meter and insulate the negative lead from ground. Remove and insulate the leads off the alternator. Reconnect the meter to the negative cable. Does the current draw go away? If so, you have a problem in the charging system. If not, insulate the negative lead again. Reconnect the alternator and reconnect the negative cable to the meter. Open door and hold the interior light switch closed (in the door frame) or pull the interior light bulb. Lift one fuse at a time until the current draw goes away. That circuit will be the culprit to investigate. This is not difficult but is time consuming. A logical approach will aid you in resolving the problem.

If you're hell bent on the 4" tube then maybe oval tubing will do the trick to gain needed clearance. http://www.drgas.com/store/home.php?cat=8

My suggestions were for more realistic gains in the 20-25hp range. Even that would feel significant over bone stock. Since it appears he isn't wishing to jump into a motor swap then these would be his next alternative. There is no replacement for displacement though....

I'd probably drop in a moderate street cam, 3-2-1 headers (I prefer tri-y design for the street to gain bottom end torque), 2.25" exhaust (maybe 2.5"), N36 manifolds and do some simple port matching. The twin pipes won't help with exhaust scavaging. You should reach your goals and stay close to your $1000 budget.