NewZed

Probably just fine. The polyurethane products were developed as a performance improvement. More precise steering, less wheel movement. The aftermarket will hype and sell whatever they can.

Actually it's rubber in the back, poly in the front. The front bushing takes the force under braking on the Z's, under compression, and is the one that you don't want compressing too much, making the steering squishy. But the poly should not have split. It does take a lot of side forces as the rod moves up and down with the suspension. But usually it causes the rod end to fatigue and break off. Seems like you got a bad batch of polyurethane. Bad chemistry, or a knockoff.

Share.

https://www.schneidercams.com/270-60F-14_LET6.aspx Did Schneider give you an idea of what vacuum reading you should be able to get? Opening up the lash effectively "detunes" the cam. Less lift. Seems like an odd suggestion. Does your engine have any EGR remnants? The EGR passages have been known to rot inside the manifold and leak internally.

Might help your conversation to distinguish between "no signal" and "no signal showing in Tunerstudio". The first is a problem at or with the hall sensor itself, the second could be anywhere in between or at the computer.

Sounds like front wheel bearings. Your tires will wear out faster also.

I have, in the past, placed the plug wires on my L28 280Z engine in reverse rotation order. #1 was correct but the rest were placed in clockwise rather than counterclockwise order. The engine started and ran but it ran terribly. Since I had only replaced the wires as a tuneup on an engine that ran well I knew immediately that I had screwed up the firing order somehow. It must have been running on only two cylinders. 1 5 3 6 2 4 1 4 2 6 3 5 In short, maybe doublecheck your plug wire placement. Good luck.

Bring a Trailer is a good place to look. Search for "240Z" and you'll be able to get notified when a new one shows up. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/

I guess my basic point was that when signed in you "feel" like you're part of a large community. But, actually you're only part of the signed up and signed in community. On top of that, even the Facebook group you linked to is a Private Group". So I assume that after logging in I would have to be accepted in to the Private Group in order to see the classifieds. Why would anyone sell a 240Z in the Private group when they can put it on Marketplace and get a bigger audience? It's not a criticism, it's just an observation. The internet has changed from the original purpose of sharing information to one of capturing attention. Used to be you could see everything and you only had to "join" if you had something to say.

These Facebook links are kind of funny, relative to the other "are forums dying" thread. If a person does not have an account and sign in they can barely see anything. It's worse on Marketplace, you can look at about ten items before Facebook blocks you unless you sign in. So it's kind of a members-only craigslist.

Also don't see engine management shown. That can get expensive. The video is worth watching for anyone else interested. The guy should just finish it. The door gap is off. Might have been in a past accident. Could be a fun project for the right price.

Apparently it is not in running condition. So, basically, it is a collection of parts. Looks like he wants about 75% of what he paid for the parts. That seems steep. $28,500/38,290 If you wanted that exact set of parts then you might consider it as a 25% off sale. But since the car is not running you can't tell if the set of parts will actually make a nice car. Not even clear that the engine runs, and it doesn't say anything about engine condition. Besides that you'll need to pay for a paint job for the hood if you want it to look decent, unless you ho with the classic primer black. Also, I don't see the shiny rims on the spreadsheet. They might not be included. Looks like a risky endeavor unless you plan to sell the parts separately for full price. Good luck.

Ask one of the AI's and see what it says.

Here's some visual food for thought. Looks like lots of space. Maybe no problem? Found the picture on eBay. I'd share the link but they put way too much stuff in it. There's an extra T. Don't know if it matters.

I'd guess that it is a 1970 - 1977 Z. Could be a bad regulator. How about some ammeter numbers? "Jumping" is not enough. Even better would be some voltage numbers at the battery. A good opportunity to get some practice with a meter. Good luck.

Here's an old halfshaft thread that covers the length, binding, and shortening. Might be the best of what's out there.

The halfshafts are all the same, even the 280ZX shafts. One of the Hybridz members compared a range of years and determined that, but, unfortunately his web page with the data is gone. The 240Z's seem to be slightly narrower between the wheel flanges than the 280Z's, but that has not been confirmed. It's not the halfshafts, it's the cars. The binding issue doesn't seem to be a big problem but you can find threads about people grinding areas of the halfshafts to shorten them at full compression. In short, all you really need is the correct pinion shaft flange. Or a 75 280Z propeller (drive) shaft. Or, maybe there's a flange that you can swap on to your 240Z shaft, see link below. I haven't gone through the actual measurements so don't know for sure if this guy's parts work. Some of his information is wrong, like the part about the 79-83 differentials. 76-83 R200's all have the same dimensions, I have had several across the full range. I've also seen square flanges (78) and circular flanges (76) that fit the same way. Shape does not correlate to fit. Anyway, worth some measuring. Check the bolt hole diameters. Make sure the u-joints will fit. Good luck. https://jagsthatrun.com/products/adaptor-flange-for-datsun-z-v8

Is the R200 from a 1975 280Z? They had an odd flange size. The other 280Z R200's will swap over directly. Your original 240Z driveshaft should work with those. The R180 and the R200 are the same length. The 75 280Z R200 flange is an oddball.

What engine is going in?

You guys went for the troll's bait. Tiny tiny win for zboi.

This distance?

The topic has come up before. Might be something in the attached link. There are probably others. Compare the holes in the head with the holes in the block, and to the holes in the gasket. You might find that the different gaskets will flow the same amounts.

Oops. Looks like it is.

I would use the Engine Electrical and Body Electrical chapters for the diagrams. They are more detailed. I don't see the ignition relay involved in the lighting system.

Here are some links to how to wire up an HEI module if you decided to try it. You can do it all from the engine bay, no need to get inside the old module. It is just unplugged. I think that you might have to join to download the full documents, but the thumbnails have the schematic. Used to be free over there but now there's a charge. There are old posts on the forum about it too though. Good luck. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/124-instruction-fitting-a-4-pin-hei-module-to-280z-1977-revdpdf/