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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. This is a good one, but I don't think you can get new 240SX 5 speeds anymore. Maybe you can if you find the right dealer. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm
  2. Notice though, that the diagram says switch. I think that's a typo since the diagram is for the oil pressure gauge. The switch is described in the Engine Fuel section under fuel pump operation.
  3. Looks like the one with the yellow wire with black stripe. The other prong is a switch for the fuel pump relay.
  4. Not so sure that means your gauge is fine. Why would it slowly drop to zero? Kind of sounds like the bimetal strip heats up and causes the slowly drops to zero part. If I read the description right you should be able to connect an ohm-meter to the pressure sensor side and see resistance change when you start the engine. Not sure where it starts though. These old gauges have some odd operating features. Internal voltage regulator, for example. I think its purpose is to correct for voltage changes as the alternator kicks in and out. Maybe this will give you a clue.
  5. This looks like advice to me...
  6. Taking the advice of someone who has found a way around the law, or thinks he has, doesn't seem like a good idea. Plus he has a 71 so he might think that he knows a guy, but his car gets a pass on most of the emissions rules. Your 78 does not. Better figure it out before you spend too much money. Plus - new administration in D.C. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/vehicle-registration/smog-inspections/ Your vehicle does not need a smog inspection if your: Gasoline-powered vehicle is a 1975 year model or older (This includes motorcycles and trailers.) Diesel-p
  7. what year car
  8. You can dead-head the line and should get at most about 60 psi. The Nissan pumps have an internal relief valve. If you want to test it just put a gauge at the end of the output line close to the pump, crank the hose clamps down and apply some power. It might be something as simple as a piece of old hose stuck in your new regulator. Best to check the pump alone before assuming too much. Forgot to say, the inlet needs to be unobstructed also. If you had the tank sealed it's not uncommon to end up blocking the inlet to the pump. And - gauge on the wrong li
  9. I used to think you needed the whole box, but apparently you just need the pedals and maybe the shaft or spacers/washers, etc that make them fit in the box. I think you need both pedals because the automatic brake pedal is wider than the manual brake pedal. There's an old Wheeler Dealer episode where they convert a 240Z to manual transmission. Worth watching if you can get the episode. Might be on youtube. They had to cut out the hole for the shift lever also. Showed the whole process. Looks like you can buy it, don't know how that works. Some of the streaming s
  10. Filter? Don't see it listed. You could bypass the damper before replacing it, if you think it's an obstruction. It's purpose is just to reduce pressure pulses, to make things last longer, and probably make things quieter. But the engine will run fine without it. But, really, even with an obstruction, your pump should build pressure, if you test it without the engine running. The FPR is just a pressure relief valve. It won't open until pressure is reached. Are you sure you got an EFI pump? Maybe you got a carb pump. Also - bad gauge.
  11. Agreed, if you can't take a measurement just eyeball it in there and hope.
  12. Just to give another perspective on what these various sites are saying about two planes...imagine that you're floating above your car and you can see the lines that run through the pinion shaft of the diff and the transmission's output shaft. They need to be parallel. Then imagine that you're laying on the ground beside the car looking through it and can see the same lines. They need to be parallel. That is one of the fundamentals of drivetrain alignment to avoid vibration. The size of the angle is separately important to avoid damaging the u-joint. Too little is b
  13. I meant that the engine's crankshaft is most likely parallel to the body's centerline. Like the diff's probably is. Because they started that way. The up and down is where things change when you do swaps. The engine and diff can both be tilted up or down easily, and can therefore be not-quite-right. Anybody who get their engine or diff mounted crooked is going to have other issues besides drive-line vibration.
  14. No offense intended to anyone but you do not have to move the engine unless the angle is too big. You just have to think in terms of two planes. I would guess that the side to side angles are already correct if the engine mounts are factory stock and the diff mount has the halfshafts pointed at the wheel centers. If the crankshaft and the pinion shaft are parallel with the cars body then you don't need to worry about alignment but you do need to make sure the angle is small enough. that's the critical one I think the size of the angle. Move it if the angle is too big but don't move it beca
  15. You still have to do up and down. Good luck. If you have vibrations you'll know where to start over at.
  16. It's not really obvious. Everyone has to ponder it to make sense of it. I'd just find a procedure on a web site that you trust and follow it. People have made their own special tools with laser beams and stuff to get it done right. No Sea Bass though. Here's that Laine family link. I haven't read through it. https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm
  17. It's a 360 degree thing. Left right up down 45 45...full circle. But if you get left and right and up and down right, they 're all right.
  18. You only rotate to get the axes parallel. Not to line up. That's the whole key to the concept. The axes have to be parallel. The only reason to move the engine over would be if the angle of the joint is too great. Maybe they measured the angle and decided it was too much. You'd need to see their numbers to know for sure. Did they show any numbers? (You could also post the link if you wanted to). https://www.moderndriveline.com/a-little-information-about-u-joints/
  19. You rotate either or both. Don't know why the Laine's moved their engine sideways. Maybe they had clearance issues or something. Just because someone else did it doesn't mean it's the best way to get it done. The principles of powertrain alignment are pretty clear and simple. Just get those two axes parallel and don't make the angles too steep.
  20. Probably a leaky heater core. Pretty common to disconnect them. There's a port at the back of the head to supply hot coolant and a line that goes back to the water pump somewhere long the side of the engine block. They should be blocked but people often connect them thinking that coolant has to flow. If you find a loop connected the back of the head to the water pump line, disconnect it and block the ports. Check the back of the head first to see what you're dealing with. Your index finger is about pointing at where it should be. Looks like this. https://www.s
  21. You don't want to move things sideways, you want to rotate them around their axis until the axis of the diff and the axis of the transmission are parallel. Typically (always from a factory install) the diff and transmission/engine are already correct side to side, with axes parallel to the wheelbase (except for transverse engines and front wheel drive), it's the up and down that needs to be worked on. https://www.drivelinesnw.com/part-trouble-shooting/vibration-analysis/angle-analysis/
  22. Are you buying or selling? That car is what Bring a Trailer used to be all about, I think. I'd get as much information together as you can and post it there. https://bringatrailer.com/submit-a-vehicle/ And there is some stuff out there, findable with the Google machine. https://www.ztrix.com/rebody-kits/daytona-zx https://www.ztrix.com/daytona-zx/daytona-zx-black
  23. I'm guessing you'll have no problems with the relays. I put one between the switch and the fuse box to start just to take the load off the switch you're about to work on. But there are other ways. Found a good thread with pictures. Notice the extra set of unused contacts.. Nice and clean. https://www.zcar.com/threads/headlight-combination-switch-repair.311982/
  24. That is a common failure point. The contacts inside the switch get pitted. Sometimes the switch gets so hot that the solder joint on the top breaks. Be careful with those wires, the joints are probably fragile from the many heat cycles. Typically, the contacts inside get pitted and/or the wires break off of the top. You can take it apart and clean it up and probably get it to work again. If you do get it working then relays will take the high current load off of the switch. You need that switch to work, even to use relays. Bend those four little tabs back and the
  25. The EFI/fuel pump relay bypasses the AFM switch, for starting. So what you saw was normal. Disconnecting the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to Start is how Nissan says to test the fuel pump operation. Use it when you check the pressure.
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