NewZed

One fact that has been verified by many but might not be well-known is that the factory stock 280Z tank and fuel system suffers from fuel starvation on long left hand turns if the fuel level gets below about 1/3 full. You can find commentary about it in the various surge tank threads, I've had it happen to me a few times. It's a design flaw. It's pretty startling to have the engine cut out if you're accelerating through a wide long left on a busy street, on low fuel level. Something to consider for anyone rebuilding their fuel system or just looking to correct a real flaw in the system. A valid reason for a street car mod.

Are you racing or flexing? Ha ha....

Unnecessary opinion. Aren't you "flexing" with your performance knowledge? You can find threads out there about modifying tanks from other brands of car. You can also get replacement tanks, but they're expensive. It's one of those do-the-math situations. Good luck. https://s30.world/product/01-75-till-12-76-datsun-280z-fairlady-z-fuel-tank-vapor

The Airtex E8312 is a common aftermarket pump for the stock EFI system. It will put out 90 psi (unnecessary, too much) and about 30 gph (also more than needed). Don't get carried away on a bigger popular pump like the Walbro 255. 255 lph is 67 gph. Way too much flow and the pump will make a lot of noise trying to push through the small L28 fuel lines. There are several online calculators out there. https://www.google.com/search?q=horepower+fuel+pump+calculator You haven't described what you plan to do with the car. The race guys often use a swirl pot or surge tank.

It's the propeller (driveshaft) and pinion shaft flange. But, also, on the side axles, you'll need adapters for the 350Z diff. Probably knew that. The axles won't swap. The R200's long noses are inherently noisy. Just rough and sloppy ring and pinion cuts. Many people hear gear noise when their diff mounts wear out, front and/or mustache bar. Clunking during shifting is also a sign of worn mounts.

The viscous diffs apparently have a very slight hesitation before they grab. It's a racing consideration. Don't forget that your 75 has a unique bolt pattern and size at the diff flange. In case you find a different long-nose R200 to swap in. Mfactory has what looks like the simplest long-nose R200 LSD solution.

The RTz mount is for the long-nose. Great design, works really well. But it's too far forward for the short nose. There are/were several short nose mount designs out there but none are really striking as far as functionality. The front of the short nose is just in a bad spot. Empty space up to the thin sheet metal above it. An example, looks like what ArizonaZcar used to offer. Maybe they still do. Uses the control arm tubes as mounting points - https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-power-cradle-short-nose-r200r230-and-ford-88 Many of the short nose options have been discontinued. Many of the early designs had problems. Too much leverage. p.s. I'm on CZCC too. Zed Head.

Maybe? https://www.google.com/search?q=fritz+cv+axles

There's a terminal block on the driver's side. Not the passenger's side. For the distributor wires. Should be red and green, or both blue if it's a rebuilt distributor.

The exhaust manifold is on the other side. How will you drive the turbo? Is this a real project? Something seems off...

Here's an old thread, food for thought.

Found one! https://www.ebay.com/itm/275788706682?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xYdkasPjRAO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The hole is only slightly ovalized.

A new MC has it attached. Motor Sport Auto has the pin. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engines---transmissions/transmission---transaxle/clutch-parts/clutch-master-cylinder/0af50498271c/v/a/6637/automotive-car-1978-nissan-280z https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=clevis

That's a good idea, in principle, and you made it work. It would be interesting to hear the engine spinning with the ignition disabled, spark plugs in. To see how the starter handles those missing tooth ends. Hard to imagine that the tooth ends don't matter at all, but who knows.

It could just be that a valve guide was tight. People have had them pop off for no apparent reason. Usually after revving. The gasket should be reusable. I used the same gasket for many removals in the past. A 300 mile gasket should be fine. Beside the noise, it's a good idea to check valve lash on a new engine after it gets some miles on it. Beware though, today's camshafts have been known to flatten a lobe easily, soon after installation. It just happens. Hopefully it's not that but be ready. Post some pictures. Good luck.

Didn't listen to the video and don't know anything about the history of the vehicle but the simplest thing to do, if it's an L series engine, is to pop the valve cover and look around. They are known to throw a rocker arm occasionally, especially after sitting a long time. Sometimes a valve keeper too. More details about what you're working on will help.

No offense, but it's highly unlikely that you have the same ignition set-up. But maybe you do. Do you? "Electromotive XDi crank trigger setup V1.8." http://electromotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/XDI-v1.8.pdf

https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/240z-260z-280z-ultimate-rear-end-convertion-kit-that-uses-ford-8-8-rear-end-coilovers-and-wilwood-brakes

You're saying that the starter ring gear teeth are to be ground off? What happens when the starter gear hits those two empty spots?

The headlight low and high beams are controlled on the ground end of the circuits. Sounds like you have a short circuit to ground on the high beam circuit. That would also cause the high beam indicator to glow. Both circuits get power as soon as you turn on the headlight switch. The switch at the base of the turn signal stalk determines which circuit, low or high beam (short or long), gets grounded.

Those odd things. Forgot about those. I've seen it proposed that they are meant to stop engine movement if the car gets hit from behind or hits something. Seems more like they might be meant for ease of engine removal and replacement. Here's a place that might have some pictures. You'll have to browse. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/280z/

Imagine the engine in the car with its tilt and choose accordingly. The vertical side will be the short one.

Beside the fact that it's a sign that the damper rubber has been damaged and/or is failing, 1/4" will almost certainly throw belts at higher RPM. I damaged a damper pulley on an old muscle car and it used to throw the power steering pump belt when doing typical high school kid stuff in the rain. Pretty exciting, but it was a good arm workout when it happened.

If you pulled on the rim of the pulley you pulled on the rubber. Might have damaged it. 10 thousandths is not 250 thousandths. Not clear what your first post meant, with the 1/4 inch.. Anyway, if your timing marks seem off that's a sign of a failing damper also. Good luck.