NewZed

I see what you mean about the pucks. Looks like a 240Z? Later ones were scalloped. If there's a gap and they're hard you can get a clunk when the diff and mustache bar twist under acceleration or deceleration. Or just from riding over bumpy roads. I haven't seen separate aftermarket parts, kind of surprising. Seems easy to reproduce. Here's some part numbers if you want to look around for NOS. Any year will work, the difference is the shape. 30 and 31 - https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension The shifting clunk usually comes from the diff nose rising up then dropping back down, because of a loose front mount. The basic problem, that Nissan also was trying to solve, is that if things are too tight you get diff noise/whine transmitted in to the body. If they're too loose you get thumping and clunking. It's a balancing procedure. Probably best to ease your way to where you want to be.

The mustache bar bushings look okay. A new front diff mount will probably tighten things up a lot, worth doing. People have been very happy with the stock mount, if you can find it. The PU bushings were made for racing applications and pseudo-performance mods. I'd just do the front mount and see how things work. Not really sure what you mean by the "puck things". By the way, you can remove the mustache bar bushings by just heating the metal around the rubber while pulling or pressing on the bushing. The bond will loosen and they'll slide right put. The smokey bonfire approach is dramatic but unnecessary.

You're probably the first. I'd look at the short nose R200 and R230 mounting systems for ideas. It's hard to find a way to support the short nose diffs. Here are some threads. You can't get a reply if you post in them, becuase they are in the FAQ section, so make sure to post in this thread if you have questions. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/83-drivetrain/

Disconnect the inlet or outlet hose to the pump. If fuel does not flow from the tank then the level is either not high enough or the inlet is clogged. You could also disconect the hose to or from the pump and lower the end toward the ground. Fuel should flow since the hole in to the tank is wide open. You could also dismount the pump and lower it to fill the pump with fuel. Once you get some liquid in to the pump it should pull from the tank.

Did you add the filter or did you replace a filter that was there before? You might need to loosen the hose at the outlet of the pump to let the pump gravity feed from the tank. Might help to fill the tank also, Maybe you're just low on fuel and the level is below the pump. The pump needs liquid in it to work. Any chance you got the hoses mixed up, or the wires to the pump? The pump will run backwards. Check the damper hoses also. You can prime the system by removing the small wire at the starter, the one that pulls off by hand, and turning the key to Start. The pump should run but the engine will not spin. Let the pump run for while by holding the key to Start. If there's air in the system you'll hear bubbles in the tank.

The site has definitley slowed down. It's not you. Did you see these? mobythevan is one of the original experts on MS. He's even referenced on the DIYAutotune web site. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/technical-articles/install

Actually, if you really wanted to do the math right you'd match the volume that is moved in the Chevy application. Controlled by the mechanical part of the system, the pedal. Probably easiest to just find out what's worked for other people. Good luck.

Looks like the aftermarket sells MC's between .71 and .75" for the Chevy's. The transmission doesn't matter, it's the match-up of slave and master that does. Browse Rockauto and you can find a few bores called out. There's two at 3/4". Probably a good idea to find the same brand master as the slave you're using and match that bore. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1996,camaro,5.7l+v8,1035931,transmission-manual,clutch+master+cylinder,1996 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1277144&cc=1035931&pt=1996 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1404771&cc=1035931&pt=1996 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=968991&cc=1035931&pt=1996&jsn=524

The axle fits in to the inner race of the bearing. The bearing outer race fits in to the casting. Might be a misunderstanding or just imprecise writing. An observation that might matter. Maybe you need a new axle. Good luck.

Not an expert but it seems like you'll need to remove the head to find the cause. The "wet" test might not fix broken rings. As for head gasket, you could use the chemical test to check for combustion gases in the coolant if you wanted to be more sure. Turbo engines are susceptible to detonation when they're pushed. Detonation can cause drastic damage. Worrying about oil type now seems pointless. Good luck. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-combustion-leak-tester/ren1/67094

classiczcars.com is where the restorers hang out. I'd try there, you'll get more response. Hybridz is more about performance mods. https://www.classiczcars.com/gsc.tab=0

From the 1982 FSM.

I would examine the movement of the breaker plate and the vacuum advance plate. Sounds like one or the other or both might be sticking. Changing your timing as the engine runs then sticking in the wrong spot. Based on what you are describing. Take your timing light with you and check the timing when you have problems. If you have to reset the timing to get the engine to start but get the same number with your timing light then something has moved within the distributor. I'd also watch a few videos about vacuum advance and mechanical advance. Good luck.

Also - check the grounds. The points and the Pertronix gorund through the distributor body. It needs to be grounded well to the engine block which needs to be grounded to the battery negative. And, the condenser on a points system can go bad, shorting the circuit, causing a no-spark condition. You can check that with a meter. And, also, if you have an electric fuel pump that could cause the low power problem if the carbs are running out of fuel. Many people convert to electric fuel pumps and there are many wys to go wrong there, beside the typical crusty old Z fuel tank. But if you get your ignition right you can forget about that and move on to fuel. Igniton timing is easy to set and measure and confirm.

Not really clear what you're saying here. But it looks like the closest to success of the two. What does "engine at TDC" mean? Do you mean igntion timng set to zero advance? As soon as you hit the starter the engine moves off of TDC. You need to define what is reproducible. You said that at some point it started and idled fine. Then apparently it was drivable until you adjusted timing to get more power and it would not start anymore. Also, apparently, you lost track of what the timing was becuase you ended up advancing and retarding it until it would start again. Why not just set it back to where it was when it started and idled? Way too much vaguness in your work. If you find a setting for the distributor that allows the engine to start and idle, put a mark on the adjustment plate so that you can go back to that exact spot. Years ago on my very first car I got stuck in a problem like yours where I tried to adjust timng like I always had and got it so messed up that I couldn't figure out which way to go. Since you're running carbs and the original distributor was electronic (260Z) I'd guess that the replacement distributor has messed up mechanical advance and/or the vacuum advance is not connected or it is connected and the breaker plate is sticking. You can check those with your timing light before you even try to drive the car. On the Pertronix - they are sensitive to leaving the key on. The key was probably left on and the module burned up. They actually have a warning in the instructions about that. Also, bypassing the ballast allows more current flow which will burn it up even faster. No offense but there's lots of wrongness here. I would try to get back to your first sentence (starts and idles fine), measure timing (get a real number not a "looks decent"), mark the distributor plate so you can get back to the setting that works, check the advance mechanisms by revving the engine with and without the vacuum advance hose connected, then if everything works correctly take it for a drive. http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Ignitor_1_Installation_Instructions.pdf "THE MODULE Always double-check, even triple-check that you have wired up the Ignitor correctly before starting your vehicle. RED wire to POSITIVE (+ve), BLACK wire to NEGATIVE (-ve). If the wires are reversed, the transistor will fail, the Ignitor will be inoperable, and the warranty will be void. An incompatible coil (refer "The Coil") may also cause the transistor to fail, by allowing too much current to pass to the unit. This situation also voids the warranty. Leaving the key in the "ON" position without having the engine running for extended periods can cause the coil to overheat, and 'cook' the Ignitor. Always ensure that the engine is running when the key is switched to "ON", otherwise use the "Accessories" position for use of other electrical components (e.g. Radio, CB, 12V source etc). A "key left on" situation is not covered by the warranty. Always be careful, as replacement modules will cost approximately 85% of a complete kit."

Use a meter or test light and check for voltage at the injector connections with the key on. The ECU's on these cars are known to go bad. But that's just one possibility, don't start swapping parts. This guide will help for troubleshooting. It's from 1980 but it covers all years of EFI. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

1975 and 1976 have a fuel pump contact switch in the AFM controlled by the vane position. I'm guessing that it might be a 280Z or a 280ZX or a 300ZX since they all use AFM's. If it's a 280ZX there are other possible causes. If it's a 300ZX there are also other causes. Supply more facts and you'll get more specific suggestions. Good luck.

Does it have other markings on it besides F149? Might help the sale. Various manufacturers make Torsen type differentials. Spin the ring gear and you'll probably find something. Also, what car was it meant for? The 1975 280Z's had a different propeller shaft flange pattern. Just curious and good luck.

Looks like a 1975 - 1977 280Z engine. The N42 head and block. A common engine swap, all of the L24 parts fit. Any chance the original L24 is still around, back in the weeds somewhere? It might add value. Not to send you away from Hybridz but classiczcars.com is a better fit for that car and what you're doing.

Have you checked each injector's circuit? Power supply and continuity back to the MS board? If you have power supply and connection on the grounding side on all injectors at the board then your thought that the board is messed up is probably right. You probably know this but the injectors spray when the computer supplies a ground to the injector circuit. Voltage is always present at the injectors when the key is on, but they only spray when the circuit is grounded and current flows through the injector solenoid. There are several ways to check the circuit. At least you're making progress. p.s. the engine still should have started, then died, with ether. You might still have a problem after fixing the injector situation. One problem at a time though...

p.s. forgot one of the other big EFI problems that often catch people - intake system air leaks. Leans out the mixture and also kills the sensor signal to the computer. The computer adds fuel based on the air flow it is told is happening. Might even be a bad MAP signal. Signaling no air, meaning 'no fuel necessary". Or a shorted temperature sensor showing a hot engine, which also means less fuel needed. I'd go through the whole cold start sequence and look at what the computer needs to know. Make sure it's getting good information.

I would try starting fluid again. It's not satisfying as far as puzzle-solving, it feels like cheating, but it really will tell you if the spark is happening at the correct time, and the intake system is open. If you have a remote starter and a can of starting fluid you should be able to run the engine for minutes all by yourself. On a cold engine it's not a big deal, it won't hurt it. On a warm one you can get some detonation so don't overdo it. Beside that, don't overlook the exhaust side. Any chance the exhaust system is blocked? The air has to be able to flow all the way through. You said all you did was install a turbo. Turbo is part of exhaust.

Here's a basic that often catches people - maybe you have the ignition timing set to the exhaust stroke. The flash of your timing light. The timing mark on the damper pulley passes the pointer twice - once on compression and once on exhaust.

If you have spark and timing is right it should start on starting fluid and run for a second. Not just a sputter but a solid burst of RPM. Any chance you left a rag in the intake tract? Could there be a blockage somewhere? Are you using a MAP sensor? Have you had a spark plug out and rechecked it? Maybe you're adding too much fuel and gas-fouling the plugs. Those are big injectors. Just some ideas. Get back to the primitive aspects of the engine. Fuel, air, spark.

It might help to describe more about the engine itself. When did it last run? Have you done any work on the engine? Your focus is on the MS system but maybe it should be on the engine.