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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. I just got on Rockauto and looked at several and even the 1980 280ZX shows 103 mm (4.055") as the wheel bolt circle diameter. You've supplied numbers but have you tried the rotor on the hub? Stuff happens. Not really sure what the issue could be. Hard to imagine that all of the rotors, from 240Z to 280ZX are the wrong size. They all show 103 mm as the size, at least for Raybestos parts. Could you share those three links? They'd be good to see. Might be that one is measuring bolt (actually lug) centerline diameter and one is measuring lug hole inside edge diameter. Might act
  2. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
  3. No offense to SeattleJester. Just saying, this problem persists even though it's known. Not sure why. There should be a post like this at the top of the FAQ area, and in each sub-forum there. But, even better than this post, there should actually be some information about posting in the FAQ area. The title here says "posting FAQ" but there's not another word about posting in the FAQ area. People are still posting in the FAQ area and waiting for replies but it is not possible to reply to an FAQ post. This should not be hard. Just pin a post to the top of each FAQ s
  4. How do you now that you're getting spark? It sounds more like your "matchbox", ignition module, on the distributor is bad, or the triggering mechanism inside the distributor. Starting fluid will tell you if the spark is good. The injectors won't open (shoot fuel out) if there's no spark. The ECU opens the injectors after each three sparks it sees. The simplest cheapest test you could do is to shoot some starting fluid in the intake manifold and see if it runs for a few seconds. If it won't you probably have a bad ignition module.
  5. How do you know the injectors are not opening? Have you tried starting fluid in the intake manifold to be sure that you have good air flow and cylinder pressure? If you have spark and everything else is right the engine should start and run for a second or two with starting fluid. You're not giving enough information to make good guesses.
  6. Adding on to Sjoost's comment - the vacuum lines in the engine bay can split or break. I had a problem with the small one that supplied the vacuum to the bottle from a port on the intake manifold. It would split at the manifold, I'd lose vacuum and all I got was cold air from the heater. Just filling out the potential causes.
  7. I think the heart of the question is around their claims. Does the WaveTrac drive the wheel on the ground if the other one is lifted, in a corner? They imply one thing but then water it down the more they talk about it. ABOUT WAVETRAC Wavetrac®: Designed from a clean sheet using state-of-the-art knowledge and engineering to be a better differential than any other. It uses a patented design to improve grip in low traction conditions. Wavetrac®: Gives you quicker acceleration and faster cornering by driving both drive wheels instead of just one. And, it offers improved
  8. Ford's Traction-Lok design uses the side gears as the ramps, and preload springs to keep them engaged. They say that the wheel with traction is always driven even with one off the ground. From a 2000 Workshop Manual.
  9. http://www.wavetrac.eu/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7
  10. I'm just trying to help. Sorry if I'm asking too much. Not sure what you mean by ball bearing. Almost all carb float valves are a brass needle and a rubber seat. Looks like your pump and regulator should work well together, so you probably just have to get your valve and floats working right. Good luck. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426 https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1498
  11. Do all of the carbs flood or just one or two? What pump? What regulator? There's a bunch of both. https://documents.holley.com/199r7914-3rev6.pdf
  12. This should be explained in the instructions with the kit, because it should have been addressed when the system was designed.
  13. So everything worked fine before with the mechanical fuel pump? Triple Webers, no return line, mechanical fuel pump, old parts in the carbs. You switched to an electric pump, and rebuilt the carbs while you were working on things? It's not going to be the wiring that is the problem. Either the pressure is too high or your new float bowl valve seats aren't sealing. Looks like you changed several things at the same time so it's hard to tell which is causing your problem. You might get a gauge and measure pressure. Don't rely on the written specifications. Also, make
  14. Where do the wires go? It looks like a stock part with the cover removed. I have vague memories of a part with a fuse inside, like that one has. But the wires will tell you what it does. Follow them out.
  15. The engine sounded good but it did sound like the timing might be retarded a bit. Invest in a decent timing light, they're easy to use and not too expensive. Since the engine ran well with no major knocking noises and the oil did not look bad I'd say don't do anything drastic until you know more. Don't let anyone, or a youtube video, convince you that you need to replace head gaskets or manifold gaskets or whatever. Engines can have many small problems and still run well without doing more damage. Your main concern should be that you have good oil pressure, I'd assume that ther
  16. Smoke coming from the engine bay, assuming that the car has a full exhaust system on it, is usually from oil on the headers, from a leak or from recent work. Headers get hot very fast and the oil will vaporize almost as soon as the engine starts. In your second video whatever you were scraping at is barely visible, and the oil on the rocker arm and top of the head doesn't look bad. It might be that you're just not familiar with what you're seeing. If the engine has been sitting a long time there might a small amount of condensation that will burn off as the engine runs. If you'
  17. No offense intended, but this is (a terrible way) not a good way diagnose an engine problem. The engine barely cares what's in the radiator. What's in the oil? How does the dipstick look?
  18. Go for it. Take some pictures, it will be good entertainment. Are we talking Sawzall, hacksaw, file, grinder? Make a video. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD11S6PC357322 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S4RC354902 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S0MC421925
  19. That's a lot of machine work and parts sourcing just to get a couple of bolt holes to line up. And why do all of that work, then use "right stuff" to goop up any holes? If the Z22 distributor body is what you really need, with a splined drive end on the shaft the simple thing to do might be to swap the L28 shaft in to the Z22 unit, or modify the Z22 shaft. Cut it and lengthen it. But the splined end looks detachable anyway, so really it's just lengthening the shaft and reattaching the splined drive piece. Make an adapter to mount the body to the L28 cover. Don't for
  20. @cgsheen, I think, has written about other ways to get an alternative optical disc in the distributor. I think maybe a Pathfinder CAS/distributor was used. There are also threads out there about the Jeep CAS/distributor. A lot depends on what engine management you're planning to use. Nissan or MS or other.
  21. 1976 should not have points, it should have a magnetic pickup system. The GM HEI module is designed for that type of system that's why it works well in the Nissan application. The 0.6 ohm Flame Thrower should work well with the HEI module. Yours might have one or two pickups but you can only use one if you convert to the HEI module. The second pickup is for emissions purposes, it's not a big deal to swatch to one.
  22. It depends to a certain extent on how you have the injectors attached to the rail. The Pallnet rail has the injector o-rings inserted in to a cavity to seal the top and uses the precisely machined mounts to press the bottom o-ring against the manifold surface. The bottom is not the typical o-ring seal, it uses downward force to create the seal. If you don't get the rail mount correct, and the sealing surface flat and clean, you can have a vacuum leak at the interface with the injector. Coincidentally, a typical o-ring style injector will project in to the flow stream of the L6 manifold at
  23. If it was a problem the sag would happen with the doors open. If the point where the door mounts is deforming due to weight then the door hinges would bind. Can't imagine a problem with removing them.
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