NewZed

Why does your title mention head and block but your question is about wiring? You should ask him what works and what doesn't, what's changed and what's 1973 stock. His "new harness needed comment" could be because it looks ratty or because it's been ripped out entirely. Find out if it has the 280Z distributor and an electronic ignition module or the original 240Z points distributor. The head and the block will work together, but you need to know what the other parts are to decide how to get it to run.

I doubt that anyone is going to guess at how much it will cost to rewire your car. But if you want to try to get things back to original, this company will rebuild your wiper motor for a fair price - http://www.philbingroup.com/ They're in Portland, on the east side of the river.

What does it do if you shift in to neutral or hold the clutch pedal down? That will take engine-braking out of the picture.

Why don't you list what you found and let people fill in the blanks?

There's a drawing in the FSM of the rod and piston assembly with the oil hole and notch shown. Also some Notes describing the same. Page EM-22 of the 1976 FSM, probably close in the others. A little late here, but good for future reference.

Actually, in #6, he said he needs an R200 with companion flanges for half shafts. The only way to get the flanges for the half-shafts on the R200 is to have the stub axles. So he must mean that he wants an R200 with the stub axles.

Fair enough, my mistake. Good luck with it. Edit - my mistake was in not defining early and late well enough. For anyone wondering, the 82 ZX came with CVs or u-joints as did the 83, using FSM specs. So 79 - 81 is all u-joint half-shafts for the R200, 82 and 83 can be either Cv or u-joint. For the record.

That's not right either. Early ZXs came with half shafts, later models came with CVs. Just ask for the part that broke, either the axle or the differential. The axles pop out and can be replaced.

I came a cross a web site that seems to have a pretty good listing of all of the FS5W71 series of 5 speed transmissions. It's not perfect, it still shows the 71B transmissions as 71A, but could be useful for anyone looking for a later model transmission to do a 71B bellhousing/front case swap with. Use the drop-down boxes at the top to get a list by car model and transmission type. I chose the 300ZX and later 240SX for these examples since they're the most referred to but there are probably other swap possibilities. http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car+Z+Series&bktmake=FS5W71C http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car&bktmake=FS5W71H I have no idea if the rebuild kits are any good, but they might be worth a look. Edit - here's a few key words for future searchers - FS5W71C, FS5W71B, FS5W71G, FS5W71H, FS5W71A, FS5W71E, 200SX, truck, bell housing.

Other clues to your problem are that you had smoking wires but the fuses did not blow. I would focus on the new fuse setup.

Take the fuses out. Disconnect the connection by the fuse box. Then test the headlight circuit wires at each on of the disconnections for continuity to ground. For example, if you disconnect the connection by the fuse box, or take fuses out, and get a short to ground at the power wire to the headlight switch, then the short is between those two points. If you don't then you can look elsewhere. Break the big circuit, from the battery to the headlights, in to small pieces.

Check the FSM, or one of the wiring diagrams for your year and test at the connectors. There's one by the fuse-box. The FSM shows the color codes for the connectors. You could also test at the fusible link. Disconnect at the connector and the fusible link and check for short in each segment. You can at least narrow it down to a smaller area. You can also get a better idea of what the PO was trying to do. By the way, "Gremlins" is not a good title to draw eyes to your issues.

I took that measurement last night and it was 4 3/4" from the top of the back of the diff to the center of the axle hole, stub axles out. I laid a straight piece of wood across the back edge and measured from its bottom edge to the center of the hole. I see in your other thread that RebekahZ had a number for you also. Hope that's enough to get it done. Good luck.

Was, until recently. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104370-no-longer-a-tokico-wd/page__pid__976161#entry976161

Use a torch. There may be Loctite there.. Plus the heat will expand the nut. You're replacing the seals and bearings anyway, it won't hurt anything.

Actually, there's not much to mis-read. But the story is getting more interesting. You said that you have MS in Post #4. But it sounds like what you're looking for is an EMS that has already been installed and tuned for a stock 1977 280Z engine. If the rodents have been in the cabin you'll need more than just an EMS. Good luck.

The "normal l28 setup" that came with the car is the only "plug and play" system out there. You'll have to put the old distributor and shaft back in. Another option is to describe in detail what you have installed and see if someone can help you get Megasquirt running. Post your questions, detailed, here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/34-megasquirt/ To Hybridz sellers - Excuse me if I'm ruining someone's opportunity to sell an aftermarket EMS.

Download the FSM and test the TPS according to the procedure described in the Engine Fuel section - http://xenons30.com/reference.html Test the AFM, procedure described in the same section. Measure your fuel pressure. Run all of the tests until you find the problem or understand how it works so well that the solution just pops in to your head. This method is guaranteed. Not kidding.

Sorry, I already put everything back in their resting spots in the garage (it's a little crowded). I'll take a measurement if I get a diff out again. Someone will probably have it before then though.

Assume that the engine is no good (poorly built and already failing), and value the car as if it didn't have an engine.

What might happen - your high pressure/high volume EFI fuel pump will pump more fuel than the return line can handle and your fuel pressure will be too high and uncontrollable. Measure the fuel pressure with the new pump running, at the fuel rail.

Looks like a project. I got 1 1/8" from the top of the diff to the line created across the two mounting pads on the body for the ends of the mustache bar for an R200. I mounted a spare bar on a spare diff and set a level across the tops of the two metal tubes in the centers of the bushings and measured down to the top of the diff from the center of the level. Hope that makes sense and works for figuring out what you need. You should be able to get the comparable measurement on your R180, in the car.

Saw your other post. For what you're asking I would get the measurement from the top, or bottom, of the mustache bars' end mounting points, an R200 and an R180, down to the axle centers, or to the tops of the diffs, since you'll need the mustache bar when you install the R200. It's the assembly of the two that matters. Or get the distance from the tops of the diffs to some common point on the cars they're installed in, same idea. You might find some pictures to eyeball on the internet also, of installed R180s and R200s. You're not slamming a Z are you?

I got 3 1/4" from the top to the center of the mounting studs on an R200.

Howdy. The crank bolt is 27 mm. I just went out and stuck a socket on the bolt to be sure.