NewZed

Here's some fairly close comparisons, all the pieces and specs are listed on some - http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/ZZ383-Crate-Engine-425HP-12498772-P764C510.aspx http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/HT383-Performance-Crate-Engine-12499101-P7C510.aspx another option with all the extras - http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Turn-Key-FastBurn-385-Crate-Engine-350CI385HP-with-Accessory-Drive-Package-And-More-19201331-P944C510.aspx All of the choices - http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Chevy-Small-Block-Engines-C510.aspx They've been around for a while but I can't speak to their service.

I've read of the nut on the mainshaft loosening, causing issues. But that was a problem with the older transmissions, fixed on the newer ones, that you should have in the 79 ZX. There's a full page blown-up diagram of the internals of the transmission in the FSM. Plus a thorough write-up of the disassmbly and rebuilding process. It would be worth reading before you decide. Difficulty going in to reverse is usually a clutch problem. Slipping out of gear, apparently, an insert problem. You should drain the fluid and check the magnet first, to see if the transmission is destroying itself, before buying the rebuild kit. Good luck. If you want to avoid downtime, buy a 4 speed for $50-75 and install it while you mess with the 5 speed. Here's a few of the write-ups that FricFrac mentioned, if you decide to go that route - http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/transmission.htm http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html

It's described on Page BE-44 in the FSM, Brake Warning System. It's a relay, normally closed.

At least tell an interesting story: drifting, speeding, running from the cops... How did she "lose" 5th and 2nd? If she lost a shift fork, the other half should be affected also, 1st and reverse. It might be a simple fix for her broken transmission. The S13/240SX/71C transmission swap requires removal of the front case/bellhousing, some machining, maybe a bearing replacement (depending on how much machining is done), and some measuring and shimming (for the front cover counter-bearing pre-load) to do it right. Minor work to some, maybe not so much for others, plus it can get spendy even if you feel comfortable with what the modifications are. I've wandered the various forums and never seen anyone suggest that 1981 510 wagon transmission will swap to an ZX or vice-versa. What engine does the 510 wagon have? If it's not an L engine, the bolt pattern is probably wrong. Any of the Z or ZX 5 speeds or 4 speeds from late 1971 to 1983 should bolt in, otherwise. There should be one out there somewhere, lots of leftover 4 speeds from people swapping.

I had also posted one more note on the 1989 300ZX 71C transmission, above, but deleted it. I was going to wait until I picked one up at the local Pick n' Pull on Saturday (20% off transmission week!), but the synchros were worn, and the main shaft scuffed up, and it was on its second life (prior wrecking yard marks) so I left it. One added benefit to the 1989 71C is that Nissan added a double cone synchro to 3rd gear too. So 89 appears to be the ultimate 300ZX 71C transmission, assuming, of course, that double cone synchros are actually a bonus. You can actually see the 3rd gear synchro setup through the filler hole, and tell the difference from the standard single cone, for anyone's future reference. I agree on the 240SX transmission, from my limited knowledge. It looks like they also went to sealed main bearings in the SX, I would guess as an improvement. No help from me on the RB transmission. Edit - Just looked at the 1995 240SX FSM and see that they don't use the double-cone 3rd gear. Maybe it was a modification that didn't stick? I've only experienced the 71B 5 speeds in use so don't know much.

Advice for you - Rewrite this post so that someone can understand what you're asking.

Edit - My mistake, saved for future...

Listen at the end of the video and you'll realize that it's really an old Herman Cain subliminal campaign commercial.

3.9 is the factory ratio for the 89 300Zx with manual transmission. The 300ZXs did have some low gearing though, with 3.9 in the differential and 3.321 first gear. Maybe 'cause they were starting to get heavy...

Dude! You have 9 posts before this one, you should know better. Rule #3 - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules I'm sure there's tens maybe hundreds of people that know the answer (I do) but either won't see it, because of "HELP!" or won't answer because of "HELP! Go back to Start, do not pass Go, do not collect the answer that you need.

That looks like a surprising load of BS from MSA. Can't believe they have that ad copy on their site. More power from NA with a rising rate FPR, "when conditions call for it". "Reports of 15 - 20 HP gains". $269. You should call them up and see if anyone there actually believes what they're advertising.

Even the guys who use the adapters have problems with the shafts being too long. There doesn't appear to be a simple answer. I don't think that you've read through any of the links that have been offered, there's a lot of information in them. Report back with the MM adapter purchase and re-drill, it will add to the base of knowledge. Edit - one thing to note though, that might be in your favor: the 280Zs appear to have more distance between the companion flanges, wheel-to-wheel, than the 240Zs. Edit #2 - actually, if the bolt pattern is the same for the 6 bolt 300Zx and the 280ZXT flanges, and you determine that the shafts are not too long, then you should just get the 280ZXT 6 hole adapters (Post #3), not the 300ZX 4 hole adapters. I think that the 300ZX shafts might be too long for 240Zs and 280Zs though, but worth checking.

Tanks changed shape when they went to the space-saver spare tire, in 77 or 78. They're not interchangeable.

Pretty sure that you can see the circlip inside if you look down the hole, with the axle out (use a mirror if your head won't fit in there). If you want to be sure before you hit it with a hammer...

They're called out differently in the 1983 FSM, for one with oil pivot and one without. The drawing seems to show one with a lash pad, and no lash pad on the oil pivot setup. EM-5.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

Just doing some homework and filling things in for the record, for the 300ZX 71C. You qualified your statements on Motortopia as for the 240SX box, so definitely not a problem. The early 300ZX 71Cs, 85 - 87, did not have the dual cone synchro so you were right. You showed a picture of an S13 box with narrow gears, but maybe that was a 71B box (as I said, I don't know the S13s). I think the question above is when the wider gears came about for the 300ZX, and it looks like the 300ZX has always had the wider gears (haven't verified 1984 though). It seems like the 1988 (edit- and 1989) 300ZX is the best 71C you can get from a 300ZX. The statement below is WRONG. 1989 had the 71C also. Looks like they stopped using it with the model change to Z32 in 1990. 1989 still had no reverse synchro. WRONG - Looks like they used the 71C last in 1988 - WRONG Reverse synchro would be nice, which would be an advantage of the 240SX box. I'd guess there's some other improvements also.

The OP might be talking about using this - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=63 - with a 300ZX NA 6 bolt CV flange. MM calls it out for the 280ZXT 6 bolt flange. So the question is, are the bolt patterns and dimensions of the 6 bolt 280ZXT CV flange the same as those of the 6 bolt 300ZX NA CV flange? Might as well also ask if the dimensions are the same for the 280ZX NA 6 bolt CV flange. They all look similar. But here's a couple of threads on the CV swap, in general, worth reading - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/65177-300zxt-cv-issue/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102798-short-z31t-cv-shafts-group-buy/

142 psi is the standard. The gauge used can have an effect. Did you do a cold test or fire it up and let it run for a while first?

Quite a few threads pop up if you put - BAE turbo kit - in the search box. If the car came with P90 heads, it may also have an F54 block. Worth a look. It might already be a turbo platform. What is a "G-Force 4-speed"? How is it different from the stock 1976 Nissan 4-speed? Curious...

Missed this post somehow. Yes, that is my take on the double-cone synchro. The synchronizer cone shown in between the rings in 1988 is the 2nd cone. The first cone is part of the gear itself. My 1985 71C also has the ~20 mm gears vs ~18 for the ZX. I'm not familiar with the S13/S14 world so can't speak to the comments on Nigel's motortopia web page about wider gears. He shows 20 mm as the wide gear. It looks like you get all of the major benefits from 88 on in the 300ZX. There were other modifications also, like a mainshaft brake, for synchro help I assume? (a weird little gizmo on the 3-4 shift rod, no explanation in the FSM), shown in the shifter diagram, introduced in 1987. So far, for the 300ZX 71 - wider gears from at least 1985 and on (probably 84 though), mainshaft brake 1987 and on, double cone synchro 1988 and on. And all 71Cs have the larger diameter CS bearing, I assume. Here is something interesting from zcarsource. The swapped 300ZX/71B bellhousing transmissions are available for sale, completed. Spendy. http://www.zcarsource.com/manual-5-speed-transmission-conversion-from-300zx-84-86-to-240z-260z-280z-rebuilt_8_52706_50262.html

Just a daily driver with an easy, low-revving 250 hp, but no ticking noises from the rocker cover. I would like that also, I'd even accept some ticking. Edit - isn't the P90A a factory stock head for the turbo engine? Not only a direct bolt-on, but a factory issued configuration.

Someone just had a similar problem on a different forum and it was a bad fusible link. As noted, the charging circuit is fused, your bad alternator might have blown it.

Get a volt/ohm meter and take some measurements. Search and read some threads. It's a common problem with many potential causes. Sounds like your new alternator is not charging.

Is 260DET the "man that paid for" a Rebello race motor. 260DET quote from the "twin-cam-l6-34l" thread - "Power output claims are one of the big ones and one which I have good $ reason to be annoyed, at least, about." He seems to know what this is about. Seems like a lot of smearing going on, of both Rebello and US engine building, from looking at one Rebello engine, and a weird way to introduce your engine-building skills.