NewZed

Remove the ground wire from coil (-) to the battery negative post. Leave the orange one, if that's what the instructions instruct. Your coil is getting hot because you have it grounded all of the time, and you're not getting spark because the circuit is never broken. The ignition module controls grounding and circuit breaking, to cause the coil to spark.

Could be anything between the dry portion of the fuel line and the liquid in the tank. Is the gas gauge on E?

The Nissan stock factory u-joints use retaining clips of different thickness (denoted by color) to set the cap clearance. Probably best to keep everything matched up.

Spray some starter fluid in the carb throats, then crank it over. If it starts, you have a fuel problem, if not you might have a spark problem.

Some call them D-bolts. Here's a picture - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/PropellerShaft/tabid/1724/Default.aspx Maybe you're trying to use half-shaft bolts on the propeller shaft. Half-shaft bolts are hex head and look similar.

It's Buck Wild's first post. Looks like a new troll has arrived. Ignore. Here's a good Craigslist aggregator if you want to check around a bigger area than local - http://www.craigster.net/

What? Another option?! I hadn't considered that Nissan might have their own transmission fluid, although I had my Pathfinder transmission fluid changed at the local dealer years ago (when I had less free time than I do now) and I remember noticing that the shifting was stiffer and notchier when I got it back. I wondered how the dealer fluid was different from the factory fill fluid but never followed up on it. Thanks for the details rejracer. The Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to be stocked by anyone in my area. The GM dealer has the GM brand at $17.95 per quart. So far, the 25/75 ATF/ Swepco 201 blend I'm using has raised the aggravation threshold to where I can live with it for a while. Synchromesh, Swepco and Nissan fluid seem like good options. Better than MT-90,which looks better than Valvoline 75-90W. Ranking based on a small set of experiences. How can a simple thing like oil get so complex?

This MSA product description suggests that the dampers are interchangeable but you'll need to do some work to get the timing marks right. http://www.thezstore.com - search the word "damper" and read the special note. Or just call MSA. I believe that your L24 has the degree marks on the pulley, with a single pointer on the block, whereas the 280Zs and ZXes have a single notch on the pulley, with the degree marks on the pointer, mounted on the block. Good luck.

That would be a smokin' amount of slippage. Do you smell burnt rubber? You could confirm slipped damper rubber by checking the timing mark with TDC. Even easier, just see if the timing mark is close. If your damper rubber was slipping, the mark wouldn't even be visible. There's probably something else going on. When did you last replace and/or tighten the belt?

There's a Parts Wanted sub-forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/73-parts-wanted/ Might have better luck there.

Might be a dirty and/or loose battery connection.

The site now requires a log-in before the "View New Content" link works. Before you could see new content with out a log-in. The down side to logging in is that it only shows new content since the last time the "View New Content" link was clicked (my last visit, I assume), so if you navigate away and come back you get just the last few minutes. If I set my profile to "show me all content that I have not read" then I can't revisit an interesting thread that I've already looked at, without trying to remember which sub-forum it was in, or searching on some key words. Could another setting be added to the General Settings page in Progile, like "show me all new content over the last 24 hours" (read and unread), or something similar?

Looks like you were almost on to one possible solution. There are two wires that power the coil, one from the starter circuit and one from the key On circuit. They connect to two different points on the ballast resistor. Maybe you accidentally disconnected the "key On" wire. Check your wiring diagram or take a voltmeter and find a wire with power to the coil with the key On.

I really like that guide you made. Something similar would work great for drilling out the typical broken intake or exhaust stud in a cylinder, with the head still in the car. Use the other cylinder head studs or holes to clamp it down and drill away without the constant checking to see if you're still centered and perpendicular.

How is the block grounded? You should run a big ground strap from the block to the body, if you don't have one. The negative cable that used to run from the starter bolt to the negative terminal was the main ground path for the starter. That will give a path of positive post to starter to block to body to seat belt bolt to negative post.

Comparables on the market suggest $17,500. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103437-big-bad-pro-built-l28-turbo-drive-train-with-all-supporting-systems/ 700/500 = 1.4 1.4 x 12,500 = $17,500

How about some details?!!! Which brand, GM, Amsoil, Pennzoil? What were you running before? My take, from the internet, on the GM Synchromesh was that it was pretty low viscosity, about 30W, and was designed more toward the transmissions that run ATF, like some of the Borg Warner's. A good before and after story would be interesting. Thanks.

Instead of connecting colored wires, you might connect the wires by function. The L (Lamp) terminal on the back of the ZX alternator connects to the Charge Lamp wire from your 260Z harness. The S (Sense) terminal connects to the battery positive or the starter lug (which is also connected to battery positive). One of the wires to the regulaor will be always hot, that would be the one. It needs to be connected away from the back of the alternator (you could just jump the S terminal directly over to the B terminal) so that the regulator is seeing the voltage after all of the loads on the system for smoother regulation (that's my understanding, could be wrong). You can also just run a new wire from the S terminal to the starter lug. The B (Battery) terminal connects to the battery positive also through the thick white wire. That one would be unchanged from what you have. And it's probably a good idea to run a ground wire from the E (Earth) terminal to the block or the car body to be sure of good ground. The wiring diagram for your car will show you which wire is the Charge Lamp wire. The others can all be figured out by looking and with a voltmeter, or also by the diagram. Cover up the remaining wires, some of them are switched positive and some are always hot. The L terminal on the ZX alternator is the vertical part of the T plug, the S is the cross bar.

The water temperature SWITCH only matters when the water temperature is low. It completes the circuit for the ignition module to use the other pickup coil in the distributor, to advance the timing ~6 degrees. Not exactly clear why, but maybe for a faster idle while the engine is cold. It has no effect once the engine is warm. The water temperature sensor, the one with the same Bosch style connector as the injectors, affects how the EFI works all the time. The higher the resistance across the two wires, the richer the EFI runs. It's common for corrosion in the connection to cause rich running. The Engine Fuel section in the FSM has a great explanation of what most of the components are for and how they work, with pictures and test procedures for most of them.

Ignition switch wire switched with combo switch wire, at steering column? Turn on combo switch, send power to ignition system? The wiring diagram in the FSM, body Electrical section, has the wire colors listed. Easy to check.

For blocking the cold start valve line - http://www.mcmaster.com/#5272k147/=f26fza Not pretty, but it is effective.

Do you mean integral to the strut insert? "Cart" makes no sense. Are you sure the gland nut isn't just stuck to the top of the insert? Another picture, pulled back to show more of the insert would be interesting. Just doing some grammar policing...

There's a picture in the FSM.

rejracer, I missed your post, I'm just seeing it. I'll check out the Syncromesh, it sounds interesting. In the meantime I tried a 50/50 blend of Valvoline Dex/Merc ATF and Swepco 201. It made the drop in to gear easier for relaxed driving but I lost a couple hundred RPM on the gear-grind limit when in a hurry, and it was noisier when it happened. I drained the 50/50 blend and re-mixed the Swepco 201 I had taken out, to give a 25% ATF blend. That made a significant difference and it feels like the best it's been, about the same as the 100% Swepco. I think that 50/50 was just too thin for the worn parts. I ordered some parts, inserts and springs, from Courtesy Nissan and will probably just use what I have before opening the transmission to see what I can improve, unless GM's Syncromesh sounds amazing. Thanks for the tip.

I thought that one of the first things you are supposed to do with Megasquirt is get the Megasquirt timing readout to match the timing light, by adjusting the trigger offset. Once you get that it doesn't matter if your distributor is 180 off or not, since Megasquirt controls the timing. Sounds like you've started in the middle of the Megasquirt setup process. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm#spark