NewZed

You could check continuity to a reverse bulb socket.

I'm just swapping bearings for now. Boring a new counter-shaft bearing would require time and effort (= money) to get it right since it affects the location of the end of the counter-shaft. I don't have any power anyway so don't really need it, and it can be done later. I relieved the inside of the bell-housing for the drive gear behind the bearing myself, since it's non-critical, and drilled out the shift fork hole. I managed to find an early 240Z propeller shaft. They are short enough to work but longer than recommended. The 240Z shaft is 21" between the centers of the u-joint caps (measured myself, couldn't verify anywhere before I got it). The stock 280Z shaft is 22 1/4" (verified in the FSM and my garage). You can see that I'm getting more accurate with each measurement. Obviously not a machinist, I'd never make it. The 71C transmission is 2" longer than the 71B, that's why everyone recommends shortening the drive shaft by 2". I was just pointing out in Post #14 that's there's 1.5" of room for "error" or alternatives like the early 240Z shaft. With the early 240Z shaft, the driveshaft is 3/4" closer to bottoming on the mainshaft than with a stock shaft cut 2". 3/4" of clearance instead of 1.5". If you're going to cut drive shafts you might consider combining a Z for the diff and the SX for the front. The dust cover will fit right. The diff flange bolt pattern is probably wrong on your SX shaft. Wordy...

Is this a bench-racing thread? Are these future engines from thought experiments? Lots of flow numbers and test results but I can't really tell if an engine has been built and done something in a car. Reading it is liking being in a bizzaro world, with the iphone grammar and fantastic claims. Maybe things really do rotate backward in Oz. Any pictures or videos of a completed engine, on a dyno or in a car?

I wish I had a lathe, and more. I'm only up to drill press so far. I will probably be filing the two spot welds by hand.

I got curious on this so took some measurements on my car, a stock 280Z, and a drive shaft and transmission I have. I eyeballed the fit from under the car so not exact, but close. The Nissan engineers left ~1.5" of space between the bottom of the drive shaft yoke sleeve and the end of the transmission output shaft. There's about 4 3/4" of spline in the sleeve, they use ~3 1/4". That would be why the early 240Z drive shaft works, even though they're only 35 mm (~1 3/8") shorter than the later shafts. You should end up with ~7/8" of space between drive shaft and transmission output shaft with the early 240Z shaft. Edit again - my numbers were off (happens often). Edit again - see #18. Accuracy has improved by 1/8".

The threads live forever, for the next guy's search. Good luck with your build.

P90 / F54 is the stock Nissan turbo engine combination. The pistons and heads are the main differences between engines. The blocks probably don't get identified because they are all very similar. As noted above, there are some turbo-oriented threads in the FAQ section, L6 Engine forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-n you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

galderdi,that's interesting that you say you just have a wire wrapped around the coil lead. Do you mean the blue wire that goes to to Pin 1 is open-ended (not connected to coil negative as normal) but wrapped around the high voltage lead to the distributor?

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure voltage at the battery, before and after starting and with the engine revving. If you don't have one, you could have bought one with the money you spent on the alternator. Even your in-dash voltage meter will tell you something, if it goes down instead of up when you start the engine, then your alternator is not charging. Missing fusible links is a sign of prior problems. There has to be some fresh tape (newer than 33 years old) in the area that you could unwrap.

Free meaning stolen. Why do guys like you have to steal so many, that end up sitting in your garage? I spent an hour walking around the wrecking yard one day looking for a Bosch relay and they were all gone. Someone like you walked around, filled his socks and waddled out the door with a bunch of parts he'll never use.

I think that the F54 might have carb manifold mounting holes. Look around for a picture. Might even show them in the FSM drawings. The L28 exhaust manifold would be missing the air injection holes, if you needed them, but should bolt on. The F54/P79 combination is flat-tops with 8.8 (FSM numbers). I don't know much about carbs, but the only real downside would probably be choking off the high RPM power with L24 size carbs, plus some tuning probably required for the L28 needs. No expert though...

I might know where one is, but would have to look. You wouldn't have an early 70, short, 240Z driveshaft to trade for it,would you? Edit - and how close is close? 1" = 25 .4 mm. There's a variety of diameters out there. I'm assuming the 28.5 mm (1 1/8") bar is too stiff.

The 77 has an R200 with mustache bar. Stock ratio would be 3.54. The 85 300ZX should have 3.7 gears. All that's needed is to swap the pinion flange from the 77 to the 85, pop the stub axles out of the 77, pop them into the 85, and bolt it in. The hardest part will probably be getting the pinion nut off.

This thread is popular and covers many of the common engine upgrades and how the L6 engine responds to them. Examples: the exhaust system is well-designed as-is, and the ECU control is limited since it is not easily modified. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

I think that has been posted here recently but here it is again - It's from this thread over on classiczcars.com -http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44015-Cutaway-Engine/page2 Running on 1,2 and 3. Limping home might actually be pretty smooth with one driver out, with the front and back halves split. Isn't the L6 design in general split between 1,2,3 and 4,5,6? Daul carb intake manifolds, and exhaust manifolds for both carb and EFI.

The OP is in a "tech college for automotive" (Post #1). You would hope that someone there would be able to answer his question. Besides some kid.

With a bellhousing swap, using one from a 71B, a shortened drive shaft and a modified transmission mount, the 71C should fit. There are a couple of good write-ups on it out there. The 89 300ZX should have the double synchro second gear going for it, which is nice.

Count the splines (before jamming). Look at the transmission drawings in the FSM.

Of course, it could be the automatic drive shaft also. Which could also be a drive shaft that Mofro ended up with.

Can anyone say for sure that the FS5R90A (T-5) transmission has a different spline count or diameter on the output shaft? I've browsed around the forums but can't find a definite statement. Mofro may have a T-5 transmission or a T-5 drive shaft. If he has a 71B transmission then any old late 240Z, 260Z or 280Z coupe (not 2+2) drive shaft should work, except the 1975 280Z. Edit - Apparently the T-5 came with a different spline count according to this write-up, about 1/2 way down the page - http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ I feel smarter now...

Looking at your pictures, they both look like they have no dust shield. You can get new dust shields from Courtesy Parts for ~$11 (part number 32135-Z31004 for the 85 300ZX trans). In use,they will actually be more like rock shields, since there is no matching cup on the drive shaft to keep water and dust out. It will look better, but could actually fill up with dirt and grime (call me a downer, sorry).

Looks like they introduced a new type of drive shaft in 1982 for the turbo. Maybe to match the FS5R90A transmission, which might have a different spline ("gear") count or shaft diameter. Check the FSM to see what kind of transmission you have or had. Why guess when you don't have to? The yokes aren't swappable. And a drive shaft that's too long will probably damage your transmission.

How does it "not match"? And which transmission doesn't match, the old one or the new one? What kind of transmission did you get? What kind was in before? Lots of combinations possible. A ZX driveshaft would be too long for a Z, by about 1/2 inch. Maybe that's why the first transmission failed.

Check the date on the posts your replying to. This one is 2005, the last one was 2007.

I counted three for buy new, and two "do it if you have the money". But there were also two good materials science based explanations of why you should be able to reuse them, and one real-world example of reuse. Also, $110 is not much money to some. The "relativity theory" of car hobbies demonstrated. What are you studying in college?