NewZed

Why don't you take the mechanical one off and see if there's a hole in the diaphragm? No need to buy and hope...

Damn, I knew my definitive statement would get punished. Another possibility, apparently.

You must have one of the aftermarket solid-state replacements for the mechanical regulators. I've read that they aren't very durable. You can get a replacement or do the change to an internally regulated alternator. Both systems put out 60 amps max though, so the benefit to swapping to internal regulation is small.

I saw your thread on classiczcars. I think that Captain Obvious is right there, that you should figure out the timing issue. The engine shouldn't start at 40 degrees advance, it should just kick back and refuse to do anything. Focus on the distributor.

Gas comes through the carbs. The carb guys will probably want to know what carbs you're running on your 240Z. But that's where the source of your problem is.

That's about twice the flow rate of the stock 188 cc NA injectors. The stock ECU can't tell the difference. Do you have an aftermarket EMS?

Are you measuring output at the alternator, at the battery or at the regulator? Should give you a clue as to if the alternator is producing but the current is not making it to where it's supposed to go, or if the alternator is just not producing.

Which service manual are you looking at? The 1976 Nissan FSM doesn't show any "interlock unit" in the alternator or regulator circuits that I can see. My 76 coupe doesn't have one. The relay under the passenger seat is probably the brake warning lamp check relay.

One is a ground wire and should be connected to the negative terminal. The other is the power wire to your fuel injection harness. It should also have a fusible link in-line, and is connected to the positive terminal. If you didn't disconnect the fusible link(s) then the one with the links would be the one for the positive terminal. Some Zs have two green fusible links and some only have one. You forgot to mention the year of the car.

Add more details - color, size, wire origination and termination, etc.

Do you have a jack stand under the differential? It looks like the weight of the car is on the mustache bar. If you drop the car down you'll probably find that the gap closes up. You can see the bushings with the car down. The gap distance is set by the nut and washers bottoming on the sleeve inside the bushing. The rubber just fills in the space between. A cheap way to tighten things up is to get some big washers that will fit over the sleeve and compress the rubber. If you take the nut off and drop one of those rubber coated washers you'll see how it works. You can do it all with the car on the ground. The end of the mustache bar will drop a little but you can push it up with one hand. Edit - fixed a spelling error and added a detail.

The differential and half-shafts.

It's about halfway down this page, under Hybridz Classified Rules - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

Thanks, I've seen that but the fuel pump hole facts didn't really register. It's still odd. Comments about compression ratio still apply. Unless the engine was modified with flat top pistons, the CR will be low. And the OP doesn't "need" to run a mechanical pump, but he can if he wants to. Maybe. Does the P90 cam shaft end have provision for the fuel pump drive cam? Might be easier to just go with electric. Looks like fun.

Didn't know that. They blocked it off in the N47 and the P79. Left the bolt holes, with threads, but no through-hole in to the timing chain cavity. They opened it up again for the P90? Odd.

What failed on those three distributors - the ignition modules, the pickups, or the mechanical portion?

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the P90 head does not have a spot for a mechanical fuel pump. You'll need an electric pump, and maybe a pressure regulator. And if you used the original stock dished pistons in the rebuild of that 78 engine, you'll have a low compression ratio with the P90 head, which won't help your power output. Since you're racing, you can run high octane racing fuel and a high compression ratio. No clue here on the carb parts.

The OReillys auto site suggests that it might work. Pull up the stock parts for 1977 then click on the Compatibility tab. It's pretty handy. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SAC0/SC594.oap?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209248&ck=Search_clutch_01335_1209248_-1&keyword=clutch&pt=01335&ppt=C0015 If the search string doesn't work, start new - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap

Sounds like you just need the thickness of a known-good ring. Preferably a new one. Then you can do the math on your parts. Maybe someone will measure one for you.

5 years and 11 months must be a record for the pause between posts! Impressive that you can jump right back in to the thread like it was yesterday.

Those are all symptoms of an intake system vacuum leak. Check your hoses. There have been cases of the EGR system corroding through, giving full-time EGR, which would be an internal vacuum leak. If you can't find a leak anywhere else.

The Borg Warner transmission is totally different from the FS5W71B, C or H transmission (except for, maybe, the shifter which might work in the C and H versions). You need a bellhousing from an FS5W71B or FS4W71B transmission to swap in a C (300ZX) or H (240SX) transmission. A Z or ZX 5 speed would be simplest since the reverse switch is already in the right place.

If you don't have oil holes on the rod ends, you'll be better off to find out before you install them. The holes serve an important purpose. And you'll still need to know how to orient the piston. I'm just having some fun. Like watching someone look for their glasses when they're perched on the top of their head. Laughs for everyone.

Here's a picture, just for fun. Not trying to be an FSM fanatic, but it's all right there to be seen, I can't help myself. It's like two thousand words worth of this thread.

Resistance goes down with gauge (thick wire has less resistance). For the record. What do you mean by "it was due to my coil"? Did you change coils? Might help someone if you told which coil you're using that works right. And is that the black inline resistor from the 280Z EFI wiring harness, in your drawing? Just to be clear. It says 260Z/280Z, not sure what that means.