NewZed

Thanks, I've seen that but the fuel pump hole facts didn't really register. It's still odd. Comments about compression ratio still apply. Unless the engine was modified with flat top pistons, the CR will be low. And the OP doesn't "need" to run a mechanical pump, but he can if he wants to. Maybe. Does the P90 cam shaft end have provision for the fuel pump drive cam? Might be easier to just go with electric. Looks like fun.

Didn't know that. They blocked it off in the N47 and the P79. Left the bolt holes, with threads, but no through-hole in to the timing chain cavity. They opened it up again for the P90? Odd.

What failed on those three distributors - the ignition modules, the pickups, or the mechanical portion?

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the P90 head does not have a spot for a mechanical fuel pump. You'll need an electric pump, and maybe a pressure regulator. And if you used the original stock dished pistons in the rebuild of that 78 engine, you'll have a low compression ratio with the P90 head, which won't help your power output. Since you're racing, you can run high octane racing fuel and a high compression ratio. No clue here on the carb parts.

The OReillys auto site suggests that it might work. Pull up the stock parts for 1977 then click on the Compatibility tab. It's pretty handy. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SAC0/SC594.oap?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209248&ck=Search_clutch_01335_1209248_-1&keyword=clutch&pt=01335&ppt=C0015 If the search string doesn't work, start new - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap

Sounds like you just need the thickness of a known-good ring. Preferably a new one. Then you can do the math on your parts. Maybe someone will measure one for you.

5 years and 11 months must be a record for the pause between posts! Impressive that you can jump right back in to the thread like it was yesterday.

Those are all symptoms of an intake system vacuum leak. Check your hoses. There have been cases of the EGR system corroding through, giving full-time EGR, which would be an internal vacuum leak. If you can't find a leak anywhere else.

The Borg Warner transmission is totally different from the FS5W71B, C or H transmission (except for, maybe, the shifter which might work in the C and H versions). You need a bellhousing from an FS5W71B or FS4W71B transmission to swap in a C (300ZX) or H (240SX) transmission. A Z or ZX 5 speed would be simplest since the reverse switch is already in the right place.

If you don't have oil holes on the rod ends, you'll be better off to find out before you install them. The holes serve an important purpose. And you'll still need to know how to orient the piston. I'm just having some fun. Like watching someone look for their glasses when they're perched on the top of their head. Laughs for everyone.

Here's a picture, just for fun. Not trying to be an FSM fanatic, but it's all right there to be seen, I can't help myself. It's like two thousand words worth of this thread.

Resistance goes down with gauge (thick wire has less resistance). For the record. What do you mean by "it was due to my coil"? Did you change coils? Might help someone if you told which coil you're using that works right. And is that the black inline resistor from the 280Z EFI wiring harness, in your drawing? Just to be clear. It says 260Z/280Z, not sure what that means.

Why does your title mention head and block but your question is about wiring? You should ask him what works and what doesn't, what's changed and what's 1973 stock. His "new harness needed comment" could be because it looks ratty or because it's been ripped out entirely. Find out if it has the 280Z distributor and an electronic ignition module or the original 240Z points distributor. The head and the block will work together, but you need to know what the other parts are to decide how to get it to run.

I doubt that anyone is going to guess at how much it will cost to rewire your car. But if you want to try to get things back to original, this company will rebuild your wiper motor for a fair price - http://www.philbingroup.com/ They're in Portland, on the east side of the river.

What does it do if you shift in to neutral or hold the clutch pedal down? That will take engine-braking out of the picture.

Why don't you list what you found and let people fill in the blanks?

There's a drawing in the FSM of the rod and piston assembly with the oil hole and notch shown. Also some Notes describing the same. Page EM-22 of the 1976 FSM, probably close in the others. A little late here, but good for future reference.

Actually, in #6, he said he needs an R200 with companion flanges for half shafts. The only way to get the flanges for the half-shafts on the R200 is to have the stub axles. So he must mean that he wants an R200 with the stub axles.

Fair enough, my mistake. Good luck with it. Edit - my mistake was in not defining early and late well enough. For anyone wondering, the 82 ZX came with CVs or u-joints as did the 83, using FSM specs. So 79 - 81 is all u-joint half-shafts for the R200, 82 and 83 can be either Cv or u-joint. For the record.

That's not right either. Early ZXs came with half shafts, later models came with CVs. Just ask for the part that broke, either the axle or the differential. The axles pop out and can be replaced.

I came a cross a web site that seems to have a pretty good listing of all of the FS5W71 series of 5 speed transmissions. It's not perfect, it still shows the 71B transmissions as 71A, but could be useful for anyone looking for a later model transmission to do a 71B bellhousing/front case swap with. Use the drop-down boxes at the top to get a list by car model and transmission type. I chose the 300ZX and later 240SX for these examples since they're the most referred to but there are probably other swap possibilities. http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car+Z+Series&bktmake=FS5W71C http://parts.mackstrans.com/bkits.php?make_generic=Nissan+Car&bktmake=FS5W71H I have no idea if the rebuild kits are any good, but they might be worth a look. Edit - here's a few key words for future searchers - FS5W71C, FS5W71B, FS5W71G, FS5W71H, FS5W71A, FS5W71E, 200SX, truck, bell housing.

Other clues to your problem are that you had smoking wires but the fuses did not blow. I would focus on the new fuse setup.

Take the fuses out. Disconnect the connection by the fuse box. Then test the headlight circuit wires at each on of the disconnections for continuity to ground. For example, if you disconnect the connection by the fuse box, or take fuses out, and get a short to ground at the power wire to the headlight switch, then the short is between those two points. If you don't then you can look elsewhere. Break the big circuit, from the battery to the headlights, in to small pieces.

Check the FSM, or one of the wiring diagrams for your year and test at the connectors. There's one by the fuse-box. The FSM shows the color codes for the connectors. You could also test at the fusible link. Disconnect at the connector and the fusible link and check for short in each segment. You can at least narrow it down to a smaller area. You can also get a better idea of what the PO was trying to do. By the way, "Gremlins" is not a good title to draw eyes to your issues.

I took that measurement last night and it was 4 3/4" from the top of the back of the diff to the center of the axle hole, stub axles out. I laid a straight piece of wood across the back edge and measured from its bottom edge to the center of the hole. I see in your other thread that RebekahZ had a number for you also. Hope that's enough to get it done. Good luck.