NewZed

The threads live forever, for the next guy's search. Good luck with your build.

P90 / F54 is the stock Nissan turbo engine combination. The pistons and heads are the main differences between engines. The blocks probably don't get identified because they are all very similar. As noted above, there are some turbo-oriented threads in the FAQ section, L6 Engine forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-n you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

galderdi,that's interesting that you say you just have a wire wrapped around the coil lead. Do you mean the blue wire that goes to to Pin 1 is open-ended (not connected to coil negative as normal) but wrapped around the high voltage lead to the distributor?

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure voltage at the battery, before and after starting and with the engine revving. If you don't have one, you could have bought one with the money you spent on the alternator. Even your in-dash voltage meter will tell you something, if it goes down instead of up when you start the engine, then your alternator is not charging. Missing fusible links is a sign of prior problems. There has to be some fresh tape (newer than 33 years old) in the area that you could unwrap.

Free meaning stolen. Why do guys like you have to steal so many, that end up sitting in your garage? I spent an hour walking around the wrecking yard one day looking for a Bosch relay and they were all gone. Someone like you walked around, filled his socks and waddled out the door with a bunch of parts he'll never use.

I think that the F54 might have carb manifold mounting holes. Look around for a picture. Might even show them in the FSM drawings. The L28 exhaust manifold would be missing the air injection holes, if you needed them, but should bolt on. The F54/P79 combination is flat-tops with 8.8 (FSM numbers). I don't know much about carbs, but the only real downside would probably be choking off the high RPM power with L24 size carbs, plus some tuning probably required for the L28 needs. No expert though...

I might know where one is, but would have to look. You wouldn't have an early 70, short, 240Z driveshaft to trade for it,would you? Edit - and how close is close? 1" = 25 .4 mm. There's a variety of diameters out there. I'm assuming the 28.5 mm (1 1/8") bar is too stiff.

The 77 has an R200 with mustache bar. Stock ratio would be 3.54. The 85 300ZX should have 3.7 gears. All that's needed is to swap the pinion flange from the 77 to the 85, pop the stub axles out of the 77, pop them into the 85, and bolt it in. The hardest part will probably be getting the pinion nut off.

This thread is popular and covers many of the common engine upgrades and how the L6 engine responds to them. Examples: the exhaust system is well-designed as-is, and the ECU control is limited since it is not easily modified. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

I think that has been posted here recently but here it is again - It's from this thread over on classiczcars.com -http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44015-Cutaway-Engine/page2 Running on 1,2 and 3. Limping home might actually be pretty smooth with one driver out, with the front and back halves split. Isn't the L6 design in general split between 1,2,3 and 4,5,6? Daul carb intake manifolds, and exhaust manifolds for both carb and EFI.

The OP is in a "tech college for automotive" (Post #1). You would hope that someone there would be able to answer his question. Besides some kid.

With a bellhousing swap, using one from a 71B, a shortened drive shaft and a modified transmission mount, the 71C should fit. There are a couple of good write-ups on it out there. The 89 300ZX should have the double synchro second gear going for it, which is nice.

Count the splines (before jamming). Look at the transmission drawings in the FSM.

Of course, it could be the automatic drive shaft also. Which could also be a drive shaft that Mofro ended up with.

Can anyone say for sure that the FS5R90A (T-5) transmission has a different spline count or diameter on the output shaft? I've browsed around the forums but can't find a definite statement. Mofro may have a T-5 transmission or a T-5 drive shaft. If he has a 71B transmission then any old late 240Z, 260Z or 280Z coupe (not 2+2) drive shaft should work, except the 1975 280Z. Edit - Apparently the T-5 came with a different spline count according to this write-up, about 1/2 way down the page - http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ I feel smarter now...

Looking at your pictures, they both look like they have no dust shield. You can get new dust shields from Courtesy Parts for ~$11 (part number 32135-Z31004 for the 85 300ZX trans). In use,they will actually be more like rock shields, since there is no matching cup on the drive shaft to keep water and dust out. It will look better, but could actually fill up with dirt and grime (call me a downer, sorry).

Looks like they introduced a new type of drive shaft in 1982 for the turbo. Maybe to match the FS5R90A transmission, which might have a different spline ("gear") count or shaft diameter. Check the FSM to see what kind of transmission you have or had. Why guess when you don't have to? The yokes aren't swappable. And a drive shaft that's too long will probably damage your transmission.

How does it "not match"? And which transmission doesn't match, the old one or the new one? What kind of transmission did you get? What kind was in before? Lots of combinations possible. A ZX driveshaft would be too long for a Z, by about 1/2 inch. Maybe that's why the first transmission failed.

Check the date on the posts your replying to. This one is 2005, the last one was 2007.

I counted three for buy new, and two "do it if you have the money". But there were also two good materials science based explanations of why you should be able to reuse them, and one real-world example of reuse. Also, $110 is not much money to some. The "relativity theory" of car hobbies demonstrated. What are you studying in college?

A single two barrel carburetor was an option on the 240Zs (a smaller engine, an L20A, was apparently an option also). Your picture looks like it might be the bottom of the manifold. No mounting point for the carburetor shown.

There are four bolts at the top of the intake manifold that are not shared with the exhaust manifold and should locate it fairly precisely. If those bolts are in, your manifold should not be crooked to the eye.

The ballast resistor reduces current flow through the whole circuit. So the electronic ignition module and coil will now have more current flowing through the primary coil charging circuit. More current = more heat. The odds of an ignition module or coil failure are higher now, especially considering the age of the parts. There's a lot of good reading out there about your other questions. Wire colors are in the FSM and wiring diagram. The swap is pretty easy, but you'll have different timing advance curves afterward.

Freeeee!!!! http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html You can't go wrong by reading the Engine Fuel section. I've seen a fuel pump look great (watching a fuel pressure gauge) for about 20 minutes, then slowly lose pressure. Might be worth borrowing a pressure gauge and strapping it in the engine bay while you go for a drive. Stop and take a look when the problem happens or attach it where you can see it while driving.

I've pulled a motor and trans together. It should be fairly easy with a load leveler and some patience. I had lots of patience but no load leveler, but it was still doable. It's harder to install together because the tail section is so heavy, tilted to get it back in, that it's hard to get it lifted to bolt the rear mount up. One other option, if you can't get the car high enough would be to remove the drive shaft and transmission, but leave them under the car. That way you won't have to lift the car high enough to get the transmission out. Actually, you could pull the trans out through the engine bay after the engine is removed. Lift car high enough to drop transmission, leave it underneath, remove the engine, slide transmission forward and pull through engine bay. Reverse procedure for installation.