NewZed

The OP might be talking about using this - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=63 - with a 300ZX NA 6 bolt CV flange. MM calls it out for the 280ZXT 6 bolt flange. So the question is, are the bolt patterns and dimensions of the 6 bolt 280ZXT CV flange the same as those of the 6 bolt 300ZX NA CV flange? Might as well also ask if the dimensions are the same for the 280ZX NA 6 bolt CV flange. They all look similar. But here's a couple of threads on the CV swap, in general, worth reading - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/65177-300zxt-cv-issue/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102798-short-z31t-cv-shafts-group-buy/

142 psi is the standard. The gauge used can have an effect. Did you do a cold test or fire it up and let it run for a while first?

Quite a few threads pop up if you put - BAE turbo kit - in the search box. If the car came with P90 heads, it may also have an F54 block. Worth a look. It might already be a turbo platform. What is a "G-Force 4-speed"? How is it different from the stock 1976 Nissan 4-speed? Curious...

Missed this post somehow. Yes, that is my take on the double-cone synchro. The synchronizer cone shown in between the rings in 1988 is the 2nd cone. The first cone is part of the gear itself. My 1985 71C also has the ~20 mm gears vs ~18 for the ZX. I'm not familiar with the S13/S14 world so can't speak to the comments on Nigel's motortopia web page about wider gears. He shows 20 mm as the wide gear. It looks like you get all of the major benefits from 88 on in the 300ZX. There were other modifications also, like a mainshaft brake, for synchro help I assume? (a weird little gizmo on the 3-4 shift rod, no explanation in the FSM), shown in the shifter diagram, introduced in 1987. So far, for the 300ZX 71 - wider gears from at least 1985 and on (probably 84 though), mainshaft brake 1987 and on, double cone synchro 1988 and on. And all 71Cs have the larger diameter CS bearing, I assume. Here is something interesting from zcarsource. The swapped 300ZX/71B bellhousing transmissions are available for sale, completed. Spendy. http://www.zcarsource.com/manual-5-speed-transmission-conversion-from-300zx-84-86-to-240z-260z-280z-rebuilt_8_52706_50262.html

Just a daily driver with an easy, low-revving 250 hp, but no ticking noises from the rocker cover. I would like that also, I'd even accept some ticking. Edit - isn't the P90A a factory stock head for the turbo engine? Not only a direct bolt-on, but a factory issued configuration.

Someone just had a similar problem on a different forum and it was a bad fusible link. As noted, the charging circuit is fused, your bad alternator might have blown it.

Get a volt/ohm meter and take some measurements. Search and read some threads. It's a common problem with many potential causes. Sounds like your new alternator is not charging.

Is 260DET the "man that paid for" a Rebello race motor. 260DET quote from the "twin-cam-l6-34l" thread - "Power output claims are one of the big ones and one which I have good $ reason to be annoyed, at least, about." He seems to know what this is about. Seems like a lot of smearing going on, of both Rebello and US engine building, from looking at one Rebello engine, and a weird way to introduce your engine-building skills.

You could check continuity to a reverse bulb socket.

I'm just swapping bearings for now. Boring a new counter-shaft bearing would require time and effort (= money) to get it right since it affects the location of the end of the counter-shaft. I don't have any power anyway so don't really need it, and it can be done later. I relieved the inside of the bell-housing for the drive gear behind the bearing myself, since it's non-critical, and drilled out the shift fork hole. I managed to find an early 240Z propeller shaft. They are short enough to work but longer than recommended. The 240Z shaft is 21" between the centers of the u-joint caps (measured myself, couldn't verify anywhere before I got it). The stock 280Z shaft is 22 1/4" (verified in the FSM and my garage). You can see that I'm getting more accurate with each measurement. Obviously not a machinist, I'd never make it. The 71C transmission is 2" longer than the 71B, that's why everyone recommends shortening the drive shaft by 2". I was just pointing out in Post #14 that's there's 1.5" of room for "error" or alternatives like the early 240Z shaft. With the early 240Z shaft, the driveshaft is 3/4" closer to bottoming on the mainshaft than with a stock shaft cut 2". 3/4" of clearance instead of 1.5". If you're going to cut drive shafts you might consider combining a Z for the diff and the SX for the front. The dust cover will fit right. The diff flange bolt pattern is probably wrong on your SX shaft. Wordy...

Is this a bench-racing thread? Are these future engines from thought experiments? Lots of flow numbers and test results but I can't really tell if an engine has been built and done something in a car. Reading it is liking being in a bizzaro world, with the iphone grammar and fantastic claims. Maybe things really do rotate backward in Oz. Any pictures or videos of a completed engine, on a dyno or in a car?

I wish I had a lathe, and more. I'm only up to drill press so far. I will probably be filing the two spot welds by hand.

I got curious on this so took some measurements on my car, a stock 280Z, and a drive shaft and transmission I have. I eyeballed the fit from under the car so not exact, but close. The Nissan engineers left ~1.5" of space between the bottom of the drive shaft yoke sleeve and the end of the transmission output shaft. There's about 4 3/4" of spline in the sleeve, they use ~3 1/4". That would be why the early 240Z drive shaft works, even though they're only 35 mm (~1 3/8") shorter than the later shafts. You should end up with ~7/8" of space between drive shaft and transmission output shaft with the early 240Z shaft. Edit again - my numbers were off (happens often). Edit again - see #18. Accuracy has improved by 1/8".

The threads live forever, for the next guy's search. Good luck with your build.

P90 / F54 is the stock Nissan turbo engine combination. The pistons and heads are the main differences between engines. The blocks probably don't get identified because they are all very similar. As noted above, there are some turbo-oriented threads in the FAQ section, L6 Engine forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-n you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

galderdi,that's interesting that you say you just have a wire wrapped around the coil lead. Do you mean the blue wire that goes to to Pin 1 is open-ended (not connected to coil negative as normal) but wrapped around the high voltage lead to the distributor?

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure voltage at the battery, before and after starting and with the engine revving. If you don't have one, you could have bought one with the money you spent on the alternator. Even your in-dash voltage meter will tell you something, if it goes down instead of up when you start the engine, then your alternator is not charging. Missing fusible links is a sign of prior problems. There has to be some fresh tape (newer than 33 years old) in the area that you could unwrap.

Free meaning stolen. Why do guys like you have to steal so many, that end up sitting in your garage? I spent an hour walking around the wrecking yard one day looking for a Bosch relay and they were all gone. Someone like you walked around, filled his socks and waddled out the door with a bunch of parts he'll never use.

I think that the F54 might have carb manifold mounting holes. Look around for a picture. Might even show them in the FSM drawings. The L28 exhaust manifold would be missing the air injection holes, if you needed them, but should bolt on. The F54/P79 combination is flat-tops with 8.8 (FSM numbers). I don't know much about carbs, but the only real downside would probably be choking off the high RPM power with L24 size carbs, plus some tuning probably required for the L28 needs. No expert though...

I might know where one is, but would have to look. You wouldn't have an early 70, short, 240Z driveshaft to trade for it,would you? Edit - and how close is close? 1" = 25 .4 mm. There's a variety of diameters out there. I'm assuming the 28.5 mm (1 1/8") bar is too stiff.

The 77 has an R200 with mustache bar. Stock ratio would be 3.54. The 85 300ZX should have 3.7 gears. All that's needed is to swap the pinion flange from the 77 to the 85, pop the stub axles out of the 77, pop them into the 85, and bolt it in. The hardest part will probably be getting the pinion nut off.

This thread is popular and covers many of the common engine upgrades and how the L6 engine responds to them. Examples: the exhaust system is well-designed as-is, and the ECU control is limited since it is not easily modified. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

I think that has been posted here recently but here it is again - It's from this thread over on classiczcars.com -http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44015-Cutaway-Engine/page2 Running on 1,2 and 3. Limping home might actually be pretty smooth with one driver out, with the front and back halves split. Isn't the L6 design in general split between 1,2,3 and 4,5,6? Daul carb intake manifolds, and exhaust manifolds for both carb and EFI.

The OP is in a "tech college for automotive" (Post #1). You would hope that someone there would be able to answer his question. Besides some kid.

With a bellhousing swap, using one from a 71B, a shortened drive shaft and a modified transmission mount, the 71C should fit. There are a couple of good write-ups on it out there. The 89 300ZX should have the double synchro second gear going for it, which is nice.