NewZed

Measure your fuel pressure. If you have a return line or FPR blockage (or connected backward) and an aftermarket pump, you could have up to 90 psi at the injectors. That will push a little extra gas through when the injectors are open.

Better make sure that the 5 speeds are identical before you start slapping parts around. There are several different types of 5 speeds out there, and I don't think that the gears are easily interchangeable. I haven't found a thread yet that described a successful gear swap, although that doesn't mean it hasn't been done. I'm interested in how things turn out for you. You'll spend $200 just on the new synchros alone. Bearings and gaskets another $150. The cheapest full rebuild kit I've seen is around $350. The FSMs all have instructions for tear down and rebuild, after you figure out what transmissions you have.

On your battery - 10.4 is essentially dead. It needs a recharge. C connected to coil (-) is correct. On the B terminal, B will need battery voltage while running and during starting. You can either look at the wiring diagram and figure out which of those wires is hot during starting and running, or use a voltmeter or test light while turning the key to On and Start (disconnect the starter solenoid if you don't want the starter to turn) to identify them. I prefer a voltmeter because then you know for sure, plus you get a voltage reading that tells you something about the quality of the wiring. Connect them both to B. Make sure that the module body is grounded to the block or body through the mounting hole with the extra metal around it (one of the two like the one in your last picture with the small nut holding it). Without that ground the module won't work. The red and green wires look correct. When all of the wires are right, the module will make and break the coil circuit based on the pulses from the pickup coil through the red and green wires. Your coil modification doesn't look like the problem either. Beware, I am not an electronics expert and you might fry your $25 module. I feel pretty good about your odds though.

Re the resistor recommendation - At the top of the first page Mallory (or Mr. Gasket) has a paragraph under the heading IMPORTANT. They even give a Mallory part number for the resistor and say that failure to use one will "eventually destroy the UNILITE ignition module." It does seem odd to design a performance ignition module that limits current to the coil. Who knows, it's probably better than the points system it was designed to replace, but not quite as tough as the electronics that came later. Maybe that's why yours took a dump? I'm no expert, I just browsed through the instructions to see what was what, and that caught my eye. Seems like Hitachi and an HEI module would do the job, if you're not swapping the weights, which I would guess the OP is probably not planning to do.

This should help, generic instructions from the internet - http://prestoliteperformance.com/Portals/0/downloads/mallory/pdf/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_wiring_diagram_test_procedure_1214M_0000.pdf Looks like the Unilite has an integral ignition module. So you should unplug the stock 1978 module one up under the passenger side dash by the fuse box, it won't be used anymore. The wires from your old distributor don't matter anymore, that connection you show just leads up to the old ignition module. Make sure to keep the blue wire from the coil (-) connected since it runs your tach and EFI system. Looks like you might need to install a resistor between the coil (+) and the power line to save the Unilite electronics, according to the instructions. The 1978 doesn't come with one. This might not be best for spark energy though, I think that it will add required dwell time. Not very clear on these generic instructions. As far as alignment of the Unilite compared to the old distributor, just make sure that the the rotor points to the same spark plug terminal in the distributor cap after the switch, then use a timing light to set timing. Why are using a Unilite? It doesn't seem to offer much over the stock 1978 distributor and ignition module.

Post some photos of the Mallory Unilite. Which "previous post" are are you referring to? What instructions did you get with it? A link to the web site describing what you're using would be helpful.

If Xnke took the time and effort to do the head tapping, cylinder 5 and 6 cooling modification, I wonder if he's also running an oil cooler. Just a thought. Xnke?

You can also pop the circuit board out of that switch by bending the four metal tabs back and clean up the contacts, without removing the switch from the steering column. Worth a shot before replacing. I took the halfway approach on the relays, and spliced one in to the red wire that feeds the fuse box. This takes the load off the headlight power contacts, which is where I found the pinhead size pit and corresponding metal deposit from years of sparking, but leaves full power through the fuse box and dimmer switch. Not as satisfying as protecting all of the old hardware but it takes one weak link out of the system. The power switch was where I was losing voltage anyway and is the part that was getting warm. Plus the wire is easy to get to and close to the battery positive terminal.

What did the temperature gauge show while running, after you got all the new parts installed and the radiator refilled?

Well then, the OReilly Auto web site will show you a list of wrecking yard cars to check - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDI0/140148.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209361&ck=Search_ignition+module!s!control+unit!s!ignitor_1209361_-1&keyword=ignition+module!s!control+unit!s!ignitor Click the Compatibility tab. If the link doesn't work, search "ignition module, that's what the ignitor is listed under.

Seems like one of the Megasquirt coil drivers should work. It would need protection from the elements, proper installation and a decent heat sink, but functionally it's designed for the job. Cheap enough to experiment with also. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit-p-230.html

Groovy, even better. You do know that you'll have unmetered air (bypassing the AFM) in the intake manifold now, through the PCV valve and hose, with that breather on the rocker cover? Through the breather, down through the oil drain holes and through the PCV port in to the manifold. Should create a leaner mixture, idle quality would be the first thing noticed. Maybe you've blocked the PCV port, or it was already blocked, or "tuned" your AFM to offset it? Nothing wrong with modifying, but the EFI system and PCV system were designed for a sealed crankcase.

You didn't put a winky face after this statement to show you were joking. That's hilarious. Have you started the engine since you modified it?

The instructions in the FSM are not good enough? I don't see the problem, maybe I'm missing something. Page from 1978 FSM attached.

Don't you want to "give back" and tell people what the problem with the other pump is? Simple courtesy.

It's described with pictures in the Engine Mechanical section of the FSM, page EM-25 if you use the 1978 FSM (a good clear copy with sections separated, from the http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html site). In the Engine Lubrication section there are descriptions of taking apart and assembling the pump, checking the regulator valve, and measuring clearances. Could you remove the bolt and pop the oil regulator valve on your old pump, while you have it out? See if it's stuck or clogged? It would be nice to know if that was the cause for your problem since the pump was apparently pumping plenty of oil. Honestly curious, not taking any pokes at your method.

If your battery has over 12 volts, and you're seeing those low voltage numbers, you might have your coil (-) grounded. Current is flowing, causing a voltage drop. To be clear, by B, I meant the wire that connects to the B terminal on the HEI module, measured with it disconnected. ZX FSMs is short for Factory Service Manuals (FSM) for the 280ZX (ZX) cars,which have the type of distributor that you're using. I got curious and went out and tested an old ZX distributor I have and with a digital multimeter you can see a voltage change across the red and green wires when spinning the shaft. An analog meter might not catch it. The pickup coil is underneath the circular metal ring with the 6 inward points, along with a circular magnet. Did you test resistance on it? Looks like this - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Ignition+Pickup!s!Stator/C0417/C0334.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209350&keyword=stator

The shift pattern is the typical 5 speed pattern, 5th is up and to the right, reverse is right below it. 5 speeds were standard equipment in 1978 if you got a manual transmission, although a 4 speed might have been a factory option. Keep them dry so they don't rust up and someone will find a use for them.

It sounds like you had the right wires on the right sensors in the beginning,if you did all that driving around. Your other symptoms sound more like fuel supply problems. Maybe you got your connectors wrong at the thermostat housing. The extra sensor you're seeing in the thermostat housing is probably the thermotime switch. It controls power to the cold start valve so the engine doesn't flood when starting. It has the same connection type as the temp sensor and it's common to get the two switched since they're right next to each other. You can be sure which is which by testing resistance against the table in the FSM, then test at the pins at the ECU connector if you really want to be sure the ECU sees what it needs to see (corroded connections, shorted wires, etc., on the way to the ECU). The pin numbers are in the FSM Engine Fuel section, along with the resistance table. One turbo per cylinder will be new, looking forward to seeing that...

BluDestiny, the first post,last sentence, says they're using the P90 head. The resistance v. temperature curves are the same (they're both shown in the FSMs), they just moved the location of the sensor from the thermostat housing to the cylinder head (apparently after 1979). Your 79 wiring has the sensor plug up by the thermostat housing, the 82 wiring has the sensor plug between cylinders 5 and 6 above the starter. You can either extend the wiring or install a coolant temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. Tweaking the AFM is possible, I'm sure. I was just pointing out that your engine doesn't match what the ECU and control components are designed for. Why did you replace the N47 head with the P90? Just curious, nothing wrong with a Frankenmotor if that's all you have available.

I assume it's the original 1978 N47 head / N42 block engine and the original early-style 5 speed? If it has a later ZX 5 speed, I would be interested. I'm looking for a spare. That setup, even original, is still a nice swap for somebody, if the engine is in decent shape. It's a few more horses in a 240Z. Take car with the wiring harness and EFI parts and someone will take it. p.s. If you're giving them away I would take them just to add to my spare parts collection.

You need the "head sensor", AKA CHTS. Without it, it will run rich all the time. Good when cold, bad when warm. Flooded probably when it dies. I forgot to connect a water temperature sensor recently and that's exactly what the engine did. Ran good, ran bad, died, fouled plugs. Does it smell gassy? I would pull the plugs, see how fouled they are, clean them up, get the CHTS connected and try again. One problem you might have even after you get it running is poor running and low power due to low compression ratio. The P90 head with the typical dished pistons will give ~7.4 CR. Good for turbos, but your ECU is probably tuned for CR in the mid to high 8s.

Here's a place with most of the parts - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cPath/203_206_357_430 I think that the owner's name is Oliver, and he's been around for quite a while. He could probably get the other pieces you'll need. Here's another possibility - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74 There's a guy near my location with the back half of a 75 280Z being parted out. 3.54 R200. I don't think he'll ship though.

With a typical worn L6 pump you should have been able to drive around all day at under ~3,000 RPM, since they seem to start at ~15 psi and don't hit high pressure until you get the RPM up quite a bit. Was a new pump was part of the rebuild? You can take the regulator valve apart from the bottom of the pump, without removing it, if I read the picture in the FSM right. Big bolt, washer, spring, valve. Might be worth a look before you install the new pump. Edit - there might be a few more parts in there - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/OilPump/tabid/1610/Default.aspx

Edit - a blocked main gallery, after the oil pump, could also lead to high pressure, and take the oil filter relief valve out of the picture. Might also explain the groaning bearings.. The oil pump regulator valve should still hold pressure to ~80 psi though. Good luck.