NewZed

You blew off a good suggestion, with the assumption that "new" means "working correctly". You seem to be over-complicating a simple system. There's no magic. The antifreeze/coolant ratio, and/or the capacity of the radiator, shouldn't affect the opening of the thermostat.

The thermostat's main function is to keep coolant in the engine until it reaches a certain temperature. If the thermostat's working right, you must have a lot of coolant bypassing it. Edited.

B gets full, switched (key at Run), battery power. Make sure you disconnect the red and green wires before measuring resistance. If you're getting zero, the pickup coil might be bad. It's pretty easy to replace, if you can avoid breaking something as you pry the rotor off of the shaft, and you can get a replacement for under $20 at most auto parts stores.

Is there power to the B terminal of the module? Can't tell if that wire is even connected. The B terminal and coil positive need power during Start and Run. There are procedures in the ZX FSMs for testing the distributor. Resistance across the green and red wire should be about 400 ohms. You can also measure voltage across the green and red wire while twisting the distributor. If you don't get any voltage when the spikes inside the distributor pass each other, there might be something wrong with the pickup. Edit - changed resistance above.

Starting fluid would give you a hint and some hope. In addition to spark, the ECU has to fire the injectors to supply gas. There are lots of threads out there about 280Zs that won't start. The 280Z EFI system seems to be "use it or lose it". The Engine Fuel section in the FSM is an excellent read, full of explanations and test procedures. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I've seen reports of it being done by accident before. Can't remember the details, but there was a problem with it, event though the alternator was charging. Either the engine would keep running when the key was off, or the voltage was not regulated, or there was a battery drain with the key off. You might check with a voltmeter before you go much farther, high voltage can cause some damage. Don't forget to rev the engine to see what the output is above idle. The Z alternators barely put out enough amps at idle to supply all the loads.

I missed the "replace" part in your first post. Thought you were just cleaning and re-assembling (for whatever reason, I don't question people's motives). I replaced all of my u-joints a couple of years ago and found that the new ones were looser than the old ones I took out. Seemed like a good idea, newer has to be better. Ended up in your boat, using old factory half-shafts, with a re-grease before installing.

Remove the ground wire from coil (-) to the battery negative post. Leave the orange one, if that's what the instructions instruct. Your coil is getting hot because you have it grounded all of the time, and you're not getting spark because the circuit is never broken. The ignition module controls grounding and circuit breaking, to cause the coil to spark.

Could be anything between the dry portion of the fuel line and the liquid in the tank. Is the gas gauge on E?

The Nissan stock factory u-joints use retaining clips of different thickness (denoted by color) to set the cap clearance. Probably best to keep everything matched up.

Spray some starter fluid in the carb throats, then crank it over. If it starts, you have a fuel problem, if not you might have a spark problem.

Some call them D-bolts. Here's a picture - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/PropellerShaft/tabid/1724/Default.aspx Maybe you're trying to use half-shaft bolts on the propeller shaft. Half-shaft bolts are hex head and look similar.

It's Buck Wild's first post. Looks like a new troll has arrived. Ignore. Here's a good Craigslist aggregator if you want to check around a bigger area than local - http://www.craigster.net/

What? Another option?! I hadn't considered that Nissan might have their own transmission fluid, although I had my Pathfinder transmission fluid changed at the local dealer years ago (when I had less free time than I do now) and I remember noticing that the shifting was stiffer and notchier when I got it back. I wondered how the dealer fluid was different from the factory fill fluid but never followed up on it. Thanks for the details rejracer. The Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to be stocked by anyone in my area. The GM dealer has the GM brand at $17.95 per quart. So far, the 25/75 ATF/ Swepco 201 blend I'm using has raised the aggravation threshold to where I can live with it for a while. Synchromesh, Swepco and Nissan fluid seem like good options. Better than MT-90,which looks better than Valvoline 75-90W. Ranking based on a small set of experiences. How can a simple thing like oil get so complex?

This MSA product description suggests that the dampers are interchangeable but you'll need to do some work to get the timing marks right. http://www.thezstore.com - search the word "damper" and read the special note. Or just call MSA. I believe that your L24 has the degree marks on the pulley, with a single pointer on the block, whereas the 280Zs and ZXes have a single notch on the pulley, with the degree marks on the pointer, mounted on the block. Good luck.

That would be a smokin' amount of slippage. Do you smell burnt rubber? You could confirm slipped damper rubber by checking the timing mark with TDC. Even easier, just see if the timing mark is close. If your damper rubber was slipping, the mark wouldn't even be visible. There's probably something else going on. When did you last replace and/or tighten the belt?

There's a Parts Wanted sub-forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/73-parts-wanted/ Might have better luck there.

Might be a dirty and/or loose battery connection.

The site now requires a log-in before the "View New Content" link works. Before you could see new content with out a log-in. The down side to logging in is that it only shows new content since the last time the "View New Content" link was clicked (my last visit, I assume), so if you navigate away and come back you get just the last few minutes. If I set my profile to "show me all content that I have not read" then I can't revisit an interesting thread that I've already looked at, without trying to remember which sub-forum it was in, or searching on some key words. Could another setting be added to the General Settings page in Progile, like "show me all new content over the last 24 hours" (read and unread), or something similar?

Looks like you were almost on to one possible solution. There are two wires that power the coil, one from the starter circuit and one from the key On circuit. They connect to two different points on the ballast resistor. Maybe you accidentally disconnected the "key On" wire. Check your wiring diagram or take a voltmeter and find a wire with power to the coil with the key On.

I really like that guide you made. Something similar would work great for drilling out the typical broken intake or exhaust stud in a cylinder, with the head still in the car. Use the other cylinder head studs or holes to clamp it down and drill away without the constant checking to see if you're still centered and perpendicular.

How is the block grounded? You should run a big ground strap from the block to the body, if you don't have one. The negative cable that used to run from the starter bolt to the negative terminal was the main ground path for the starter. That will give a path of positive post to starter to block to body to seat belt bolt to negative post.

Comparables on the market suggest $17,500. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103437-big-bad-pro-built-l28-turbo-drive-train-with-all-supporting-systems/ 700/500 = 1.4 1.4 x 12,500 = $17,500

How about some details?!!! Which brand, GM, Amsoil, Pennzoil? What were you running before? My take, from the internet, on the GM Synchromesh was that it was pretty low viscosity, about 30W, and was designed more toward the transmissions that run ATF, like some of the Borg Warner's. A good before and after story would be interesting. Thanks.

Instead of connecting colored wires, you might connect the wires by function. The L (Lamp) terminal on the back of the ZX alternator connects to the Charge Lamp wire from your 260Z harness. The S (Sense) terminal connects to the battery positive or the starter lug (which is also connected to battery positive). One of the wires to the regulaor will be always hot, that would be the one. It needs to be connected away from the back of the alternator (you could just jump the S terminal directly over to the B terminal) so that the regulator is seeing the voltage after all of the loads on the system for smoother regulation (that's my understanding, could be wrong). You can also just run a new wire from the S terminal to the starter lug. The B (Battery) terminal connects to the battery positive also through the thick white wire. That one would be unchanged from what you have. And it's probably a good idea to run a ground wire from the E (Earth) terminal to the block or the car body to be sure of good ground. The wiring diagram for your car will show you which wire is the Charge Lamp wire. The others can all be figured out by looking and with a voltmeter, or also by the diagram. Cover up the remaining wires, some of them are switched positive and some are always hot. The L terminal on the ZX alternator is the vertical part of the T plug, the S is the cross bar.