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Everything posted by tfreer85
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Did you look at the Timeslip Database? http://forums.hybridz.org/timeslips.php? Tyson
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Beuler...beuler....Anyone??? Anyone???
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Awesome!!! What is "basically stock" btw? Tyson
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He's talking about the LS1 Engine out of the vettes and camaros. Its a nice and powerful V8, search for LS1 and you'll find all you want to know. As for your Z, for the inline 6 you could turbo it. Or do a camshaft, which would help you the most for easy power. Search for power combo's on here, there is a lot. Tyson
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Well I hate you, out of jealousy. Okay maybe not hate, but I am jealous. Tyson
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Purists blow balls. That does suck though that he just walked away... seems like a BIG double standard to me. I must agree most people do love the Datsun/HybridZ jacket, I don't get many older people talking or asking questions but it definitely pulls a lot of looks. Which rocks, cause I love supporting this site and Datsun. Tyson
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Time to un-pimp ze auto! (not what you think)
tfreer85 replied to auxilary's topic in Non Tech Board
YESSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! great reference Jon, I love that movie. Tyson -
Sorry Mike, but no. I'm just now one month out of knee reconstruction, so I just got off crutches today. Which means I have another month of waiting before I can dive back into working on it. I'll be sure to keep you updated first. Tyson
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C'mon back Mat, I was there just had gotten booted Tyson
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CryO2 is CO2, not O2. Tyson
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LS1 truck manifolds clear frame rails?
tfreer85 replied to JustinOlson's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Just FYI, to do this you need to use the 6.0 Truck Manifolds. I think it would be cool to do, I think the problems that you'll run into is the steering column on the driver's side. There is a lot of info LS1tech.com about these type of setups. Tyson -
It became one when people made statements as fact WITHOUT backing them up, then proceded the argument to BACK those statments up. So it really is helping the guy so he knows what he is really dealing with and how much work would be involved with a Forced Inductions system. As stated before he's gonig to have to create a custom setup. But I must say I'm really glad you chimed in and helped the guy out yourself...
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AWESOME!!! THANK YOU FOR THE IN DETAIL RESPONSE!!! All very good points. I think you mis-understood me when I said the TC doesn't run off exhaust pressure, it does like what you are saying but it also gets power from the heat generated by the exhaust gasses. Also, there are water-to-air intercoolers that can squish between the SC like you showed the picture of. Yes both TC's and SC's take little power to make power, but it has been my understanding in my readings that the Turbo requires LESS. I agree with you that a SC can make more boost in the lower RPM before a turbo spools and hits its maximum boost. However, after you get past the 2500-3500 RPM range the turbo can make MORE boost which equals more power than what the SC can. If an SC is propely setup like you are saying the frontal crank load SHOULD be minimized (but it is still there), however this is rarely taken in to consideration or design with backyard mechanics. It is something that most people don't realize, so I figured I'd make a point of it. I would recommend an SC for a car that can only handle 6-12 PSI of boost, but if your motor can handle more PSI then I'd recommend the Turbo because they turbo can produce more PSI which means more power. As for intake temperatures, its like you said it depends on your setup. Thanks for the argument and backing up your standpoint!! Tyson
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HOW? Read Corkey Bells Maximum Boost, Read Engine Masters Magazine about SC's, read Sunnen's Complete Engine and Cylinder Head Rebuild Handbook. Please argue your point prove me wrong or pick it apart my argument or HOW its wrong. Don't just say it is wrong and NOT back it up, you aren't making your case very well for SC people reading this. Also don't take this as an attack on you its not, I'm open for any arguing as to why the SC's "better" than the Turbo. Tyson
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Okay, I see some of your points, however hardly any Turbocharged cars these days run without an intercooler, so that air is not directly put into the intake manifold. What do you think an SC does to create that Boost pressure? Unless its a centri, it has two or three screws creating FRICTION which equals HEAT directly on top of the block! The little squished intercoolers that you put between them are far less than sufficient to cool the intake temperature. So then your putting large amounts of heat directly into the engine with an SC. Centri SC's are the only SC's that can get around this by being able to run an FMIC. Your headers are going to glow no matter what SC or Turbo, that is inherent in the type of metals used in headers and the extreme heat produced by the combustion. As to the restriction on the exhaust, have you ever played around with a turbo in your hand, have you seen how easily they spin? Most of a turbos power comes from the heat energy, not necessarily from the pressure of the exhaust. While yes it is true the exhaust won't flow as well on an N/A or SC setup, but it does not have near the same amount of parasitic loss that the SC creates. Yes a turbo creating pressure is related to exhaust gases which is related to engine speed. When do most turbo guys say they get full boost? Anywhere from 2500-3500 depending on turbo size etc., so that means that the only time really in which the SC is creating more power or boost is below 3500 RPM in LARGE turbo applications. At that 3500 RPM the amount of PSI that the turbo can produce can FAR exceed that of a SC at the same RPM. No, your crank doesn't just float in the block, but that does not dis-credit the fact that stresses are being put on the front of it by installing an SC. A fan on the front of the crank IS NOT the same amount of stress being put there. The fan turns in a circle and has no linear force being applied to it. Put an SC pulley on the crank sure turns in a circle as well, however it must power another pulley on the SC itself which creates large amounts stress on the crank. Sure with the proper pulley setup you can get your SC to idle at 10 PSI, but you AREN'T creating a true 10 PSI of POWER!! Why, because of the parasitic losses that I've talked about before. You can't reap the benefits of 100% efficiency of creating power if you must take 15% of that power to create that power. Another benefit to the turbo is the fact that it can function at a higher rate of efficiency for creating that 10 PSI of power. Vortec and similar centri Style SC's are by far the worst SC's for creating PSI in the lower RPM range. They are essentially belt driven turbos, that can produce more PSI than a roots, but not until the HIGH RPM range, more times than not HIGHER RPMs than a turbo spools at! I like SC's in some applications, but dollar for dollar to create MAX HP the turbo wins everytime in my book. They are too efficient at creating that power easily. Tyson
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But of course Adrian, would I expect anything different? I'm not building a sports car to drive slow in.
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Do you have any theory behind that or just saying it? With an SC what is the direct corralation for it to produce boost? ENGINE SPEED (RPM) therefore peak boost does not occur until the engine is at peak RPM. There is a direct effect there. Pulley sizes merely change the amount of boost that the SC is creating, not necessarily WHEN. An example for a street driven car (since that is what most of our applicatoins are): 7 PSI on an SC is not the Same as 7 PSI on a turbo, when you factor in parasitic losses (the loss of power to create power). An SC is creates drag on the front of the cranksaft to spin to the RPM to create that 7 PSI, according to Engine Masters that drag comes at a cost of an average of 15% of the power created. Therefore 7 PSI boost may be the same 7 PSI for a turbo, but is only creating the amount of POWER a Turbo would produce at 5.95 PSI due to the parasitic loss. One more thing to consider with an SC is the stresses that its going to put on the front of the engine: wearing out front main bearings quicker and even shearing off the front of the crankshaft, along with other problems to engine harmonics due to the stresses on the front of the engine. The only major downfall of a Turbo is the amount of heat it produces in the engine bay. However with a properly designed and setup Turbo system this can be minimized. A turbo functions off of wasted gasses from the engine and has NO parasictic drag directly on the engine. So please, please explain to me how you loose more power through a Turbo than an SC in a street driven car. And dont argue drag/race cars as to why they are better, because race cars are COMPLETELY different ball games. Tyson
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Okay, could someone show me what a completed manifold would look like? I'm kinda confused on the visualization part here. Thanks, Tyson
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Very much so WORTH the trip!!! These do good quality work, if you want someone to do this swap I wouldn't go anywhere else. Tyson
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Shouldn't that be true with any V12? It runs so smoothley because of the power pulse correct? Meaning that there are less degrees of crankshaft rotation between each power pulse (or power stroke) in a V12 than a V8. Making for a smoother idleing/revving motor. Does that sound right or am I imagining things? Also isn't there a vidoe of the Jaguar V12 with a glass of wine of the hood as well? Tyson
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Don't feel so bad about having totalled my Z now.
tfreer85 replied to violacleff's topic in Non Tech Board
AHHH... gotcha, sorry about that. Tyson -
Don't feel so bad about having totalled my Z now.
tfreer85 replied to violacleff's topic in Non Tech Board
I think this could get a Z moving pretty darn well. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508764 Tyson -
Don't feel so bad about having totalled my Z now.
tfreer85 replied to violacleff's topic in Non Tech Board
Just FYI, LS2 isn't carbed stock, its Fuel Injected. Its only carbed if you've converted it to be carbed. Sorry for all your bad luck with cars, recently. Tyson -
Okay so I'm looking into painting my Z and trying my hand at painting itself. What that means is that I need all tools for painting without breaking the bank. The body is very very straight, and there is no rust repair to be done. So far I've been looking for a compressor and a paint gun(s). Compressor: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00916732000&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators Paint Gun: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15988&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=1339&iSubCat=1354&iProductID=15988 Compressors are expensive, from the the places that I've been looking, and I'd like the keep the cost around 300 if at all possible. What ever is the least to suffice in painting the car. I've heard of good things for the Paint guns on the paint forums, but would like to double check. Any other crucial tools you'd like to point out I would appreciate. Tyson