tfreer85

Thanks Dale, thats what I've gathered from reading on LS1tech.com, most of them say to give the guys a call and they'll help match up your components for the best combo. Thanks for weighing in, Tyson

Sweet Z's. Any info on those braces? I see that its on the L6 too. Clean cars, Tyson

I agree, it looks kinda crossed between an SUV and Minivan and Mazda Wagon.... but nice power. Tyson

Okay so I've found a really good deal on a low mileage 5.3 LSx Truck Motor. My goals are to get as much HP as possible out of it. Heads are HUGE part of getting a good HP goal. With several companies now making heads for the LS1/LS6 engines, what would be good for the 5.3L motor? I'd prefer to keep the cost under $1700 for the heads, so no AFR's guys (I know the are the best). I'm looking to swap on LS1/LS6 heads to be able to run the FAST LS6 intake. There are Patriot Heads: http://sites.reachtheworld.tv/waterNew/default.asp?T=505234&DID=1225 There are Darts 205 and 225 Heads: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DRT%2D11021122&N=4294925232+4294838998+4294867081+400333+4294908216+4294924385+115&autoview=sku and http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DRT%2D11011112&N=4294925232+4294838998+4294867081+400333+4294908216+4294924385+115&autoview=sku There are Edelbrock Heads: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D61969&N=4294925232+4294838998+4294867081+4294908395+400065+4294908216+4294924385+115&autoview=sku There are a couple other heads out there as well, (recommendations welcome). I know that having too large of heads can hurt performance on a smaller displacement motor. Also what type of cam grind @.50 would you choose to go with the head you selected? My overall goal is to run somewhere in the 10's and don't mind NO2 for 1/4 racing. Thanks, for any help, tips, suggestions. Tyson

Well welcome to the board, there are quite a few lenghty discussions on the 4bbl. You might want to look them up, most members have done business with Dave at arizonazcar.com. Tyson

SWEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTNEEEEEEESSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks a lot Matt, I think I might be able to sport these at MSA now!!! I've got the paypal working so let me/us know when your ready. Tyson

Okay so I'll share my experience with http://www.carsponsorships.com in which they have used companies like blaupunkt, toyotires, etc. I signed up for the "sponsorship" costing $90 for about a short period of time, in which I was electronically approaced by, blaupunkt and a graphics website to be sponsored. Blaupunkt would sell their product to me at cost, but I had to spend at least a thousand dollars on product, and must a certain number and type of product (i.e. 2 subs, 4 tweeters, 1 600+ amp, etc.). The graphics website I could customize a set of graphics, as long as I put one of theirs on either my windshield or back window as well as one on each fender area. The website claimed that you could get more sponsors etc, however to get a LEGITIMATE sponsorship you have to be a member for a long time and been to X amount of major car shows. Needless to say I was disappointed with the whole thing, so just be careful of what they may be asking of you because it may not be what you want even if the product is cool. Tyson

Thats a big replacement!!! Its gonna be crazy to say the least. Tyson

Speeder what is that beast going in??????? Tyson

Hey Ulises, I really like that transmission mount, is it a Mike (mas28O) one off or the John's Car Kit? Looking really good, there. Tyson

I'm down for 3 if thats okay. Also can we (I) go through Bob to get the Datsun Patches still? or do we have to go through Ebay again. PM please. Now i just have to get my paypal thing figured out. Tyson

Yeah actually seeing it in the sunlight, yowza!! Looks badass, I always thought it was a darker blue but its not and I like it even more. Good work, Tyson

ahh yeah, they are definitely not them, my heads when I cc'ed them came out to 72 or 74cc IIRC. With the .125 dome top pistons, it should have been close to a 9.8:1 CR. The cam currently in it is simple 223/224 @ .50. So what my most recent thinking is to put on one of top end packages from Trick Flow in the Summit Racing Catalog Part# (TFS-K314-500-450), and drop it in. Drive it then build more if I need be, I'm trying not to get caught up into the HP # game. Thanks for the opinions, Tyson

Grumpyvette, I fully pressurised the oiling system prior to storage, it was a recommended test by my shop teacher at the time. So that does make me feel better. I guess I could just drop it in and run the big iron behemouth while I build another motor... Paz8, I do not know what the 2.02 heads are, its out of a 1979 Chevy Pickup I just know the 010 on the side of the block. Tyson

its not rusted at all its been stored in a garage in an engine bag, but it still needs a carb, distributor, other misc. things to run. But I feel I would need to replace the main bearings since they have sat for a while. Its kind of a double edged sword, I don't mind selling and rebuilding from scratch, since I would essentially be rebuilding my rebuilt motor. Just looking for opinions on it, I guess what it really comes down to is the 010 nickel block worth trying to save for a performance build? Or is it better to take the money from the sold complete engine to help pay for a new performance block? I mean its not going to be a 800rwhp motor, I'd like to get somewhere close to 450-500ish RWHP so when it comes down to the block is it necessary to go aftermarket for a block? Tyson

Okay, so I have a 350 SBC high nickel block FULLY REBUILT from the ground up, bored out, honed, the full shenanigan. However its sat for close to a 1yr to 1.5yrs, without being turned over. It would be a nice motor for a truck or pulling something but not for a Z which would mean me having to open it all back up. I'm looking into doing a 383 or similar build to handle a shot of NO2 or boost of some sort (down the road). Do you guys think I should open up my 350 block, sell off almost all the parts, except the block, and arp bolts, or sell my current SBC complete and start completely from scratch with an aftermarket block or junkyard block (re-machined)? Thanks, Tyson

Sounds A LOT like a movies called "Dark City," by Alex Proyas from New Line Cinemas. Even if it isn't it, and you thought this TV Show concept was cool, you might like Dark City. Tyson

Big time ditto, I don't know if you know it Lewis but JohnC is the guy who built Amir's SR20DET Z. Maybe you should cruise around his (johnc's) website and read a lot of his posts, the guys knows his facts and has A LOT of experience with Z's and Racing. Not everyone on this board hates you, don't take it that way, you seem to have a big chip on your shoulder because some guys here argued with you. Hope you get the desired results that you want, your swap was clean, enjoy it no matter what anyone else says. Hey you've got a running car thats more than what some of us can say . Tyson

I've got some questions for you advanced engine builders or experienced engine builders about removing casting flash, radiusing oil holes, radiusing corners, etc. in a cast iron block. In a normal engine rebuild according to Sunnen's Complete Cylinder Head and Engine Rebuilding Handbook your process would be something similar to this: Engine Dis-assembly Bore Cylinders Hone Cylinders Hot-Tank (Caustic) Wash Thoroughly then immediatly Oil Cylinder walls to prevent rust Engine Re-assembly I know that this is very simplified, but I'm curious as to where in these stages do you do the thermal coating in the lifter/oil valley, remove the casting flash, etc.? Most of the cleaning processes that I have seen all use water/caustic solution to clean the block before final assembly, what I'm concerned about is having rust form on the freshly machined surfaces and removing the thermal coatings. Also for smoothing out cast iron am I better off to leave it to a competent engine shop or is it something that can be done at home, is there anything that one should be concerned about with these processes? Thanks, Tyson

From what i've been gathering from reading Engine Masters (the magazine), is that most LS1/6 blocks are limited on the amount of displacement by the size of their bore. In the couple of builds that I've read from Engine Masters on big displacement LSx builds they opted for the iron 6.0 block because it can more safely be bored out further. In the most recent magazine, they build the big displacement Aluminum Block by replacing all of the sleeves from I believe Darton, which is supposed to be the new cutting edge thing for getting big displacement LSx Aluminum motors. If you've never read the magazine before I suggest picking it up, its awesome stuff, and designed for beginner-to-advanced engine builders. I'm just an avid reader, but great great tech stuff. Grumpy, that big ol' Purple Caddillac Engine that you showed the video for wasn't able to run in the Challenge due to dampner failure wasn't it? Also have you ever competed, it seems like it would be up your alley.... Tyson

So what is the purpose of Alice? The autoresponse question bot thing? Is that supposed to be in there? Tyson

BADASSS!!! Great vid, great sound. Tyson

Hey 510six, let me know if you end up going. I live in Bakersfield, and can get tickets for one day, would love to see this car or even yours would be sweet. PM and I'll give you my cell phone. Tyson

So me and Q were talking online, and I was curious if RB26 rods would/will work in an RB25. I couldn't really find an rods specifically for the 25, so it just got me to thinking since I could only find 26's. Tyson