pparaska

It's amazing what the search engine will come up with: Here are two threads that came back when I searched for the words (How post pic): http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=10&t=000589&p= http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=10;t=000302 That ought to help

A small sledge (3 lb) would be my choice. You need to shock the thing a bit, and a rubber mallet won't do that.

Oh, d's right - always try the BFH first!

IT's rusted together. Try: Penetrating oil, hot wax dripped on the parting line, lots of heat (torch) on the rotor near the parting line.

Isn't the 5.4 L even taller (more deck height) and wider than the 4.6? It seems this was covered before. Maybe BLKMGK knows?

Nice Job, Owen! I really do like the same-color surround as you showed it. Makes a huge difference, especially on a light/bright color like the red. Eric, interesting design! Looks pretty good to me!

Terry, I've seen those numbers before on piston area between the 4x4 and OE Z caliper. I remember the difference was less thatn 10%, but I could be wrong. I bet Ross or scca-Mike knows...

I have to agree with Johnc, Clint, others. Max out the capability of the stock system instead of the 4x4 calipers. The 4x4 caliper is HEAVY. More unsprung weight is not what you want. And it has a minimal amount of piston area increase. The pad area is greater, but the stopping power of the 4x4 caliper is not really that much (any?) better than a stock caliper, if they are both in good shape and USE GOOD PADS. That last part is key. Get some good pads (I really like the Carbotech ones too - the performance street pads work great even when cold.) Add a good set of shoes to the rear, make sure the system is in tip-top shape, good fluid, and you should have plenty of brakes. If you're going to upgrade, the fronts are where to start. And the only upgrade that makes sense is to USE A VENTED ROTOR. The issue with the Z brakes is fade, not clamping force. Add good vented rotors and the fade will disappear (or nearly so). Dan Baldwin will tell you the only reason to go to rear discs is to get away from having to adjust the drums for the best performance often. SCCA will probably say that, and for better looks . I agree on both counts, but if money is tight, leave the rears alone, except for get some drums that are in good shape (not to large a diameter from wear) and the right shoes. That's my opinion, based on years of watching this topic discussed here and elsewhere. I got stuck into the "got to upgrade everything" stuff on my car, and the Arizona Z Car Wilwood kit was offered to me with little use on it for half price, so I bit.

Watch out. In the past, there has been alot of reboxing going on. Supposedly, what's in a Moog box is not always their stuff. I don't know how to tell a conterfeit Moog part, but I've heard this from various parts suppliers.

Guys, the original Scarab (not the Z-based one) and the Allards way predate the 60s Cobras and Tigers. This stuff got started in the 50s. Although if you really go back, you can probably find the first documented V8 going into a Model T!

Tim, I've seen enough fairly sharp individuals in the heat of the moment try to start their car with it in gear - without a nuetral safety switch - and watched it move forward out of their control. I know that I USUALLY am thinking about everything I'm doing, but not always. I dare say ANYONE is infalable and that neutral safety switch will someday save them embarassment and/or bodywork!

Guys, My 73 240Z with 4spd from the factory had neutral safety switch wiring that interrupts the signal from the key switch to the starter solenoid if not in neutral. I simply used the wires that go to the stock neutral safety switch on the Datsun 4spd, to the one on my Tremec 5spd. I'd imagine most trannies have theses switches installed. I'd NEVER have a manual car without either a neutral safety switch or a clutch switch that disabled the starter unless the clutch was depressed.

If the non-LSD R200s in those years are 2-spider diffs, then wouldn't an easy check be to just look through the opening for the side shafts (if the diff is out, this should be easy)? If you see a bar/rod going through the hole sideways, then it's an open diff, No?

Some of you may be interested on other Hybrid swaps. You may have seen this, but I thought I'd post anyway: The main page: http://britishv8.org How To resources: http://britishv8.org/swaps/ Examples of Swaps: http://britishv8.org/swaps/examples.htm A few new favorites: http://britishv8.org/swaps/bmw2002.htm http://britishv8.org/swaps/tr4achev.htm http://britishv8.org/swaps/spit350.htm Just a thought (brought on by a thread in another forum here), how about we use this thread to list other Hybrid sites? Kind of like a links page.

That's probably the best mix of parts to get there without alot of fab work. And it will probably handle even more torque and hp than that. After that, I'd go to the R230, but there everything gets custom.

Chris Cloude used the plans on my site as a starting point for his 280Z shell. I don't think there were alot of difference in the shells (240Z to 280Z) that made difference, but he may have tweaked a few dimensions. Simple to eyeball with a cardboard template that represents the tops surface of the subframe connector on my site. Anyway, Mike Kelly now has that car - maybe he can shed some light on this...

Very cool! I like the added touch of the 77 Trans Am shaker hood scoop!

One thing to consider. Those of us that for what ever reason (mine- choosing too big a carb that would work right out of the box without mods) an improperly set up carb can be trouble for the ring seal. If it's too rich and run much, the rings will wear out and the cylinder walls can be glazed.

Jason, Go here for Holley info to find the jets, PVs, etc. the carb came with: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/CarbList.pdf Find the list number on the choke horn front and look it up in that file. Oh, and Dave Emanual's book on tuning and modifying Holley carbs is a good place to start! Good luck!

Well, it's a tight fit everywhere - inner wheel house, strut/spring (that's why I'm using an 8" coilover instead of the typical 10"), and fender lip. I'd think much over 26" is going to be a problem with the wheel house, unless you tub it.

9 minute until quitting time - gotta get back to work!

I agree with Dave. If you want to get 95 % of the way towards a good MPI system coming from a carb, the Holley 950 Commander TBI looks like the way to go. But I keep getting told that with some good parts shopping and doing a few things myself, I could do a MPI system with the 950 ECU and harness, using the single plane Vic Jr I already have, for about the same money as that Holley TBI system ($1400). One of these will be a winter project for me.

I have 255/45-17 Mich Pilot MXX3s on the back of my 240Z, with stock fenders, fender lip bent up inside, and 8" coilovers. It's a 26" tire, and a tight fit on a 2" lowered car.

Dangit, Alex! My work mates just came by to see if I was alright. I cracked up out loud at the first picture! That thing must be FAST!

Incredible site, Basket! Of course, I'd seen it before, since I'm on Chevytalk now and again (my screen name is "540Z" there). Man, I love all those links and how it's nice and categorized. Welcome to HybridZ!