1 fast z

I would bet that you NEVER heard back from Jim Wolf, and if you did, they couldnt give you a answer could they?

Yea, I HAVE personally SONIC tested two LD blocks, with my Certified Sonic Tester. I was getting a .150" Reading in ALOT of areas of the cylinders, and that is towards the top of the bore, and in the middle, there is NO way, atleast on the two blocks I have tested that you can bore 7mm!! Ok, so to bore 7mm, That means that the walls need to be a MINIMUM of .093 thou for a cyldinder wall thickness, AFTER boring. So 7mm/2= 138 thou of wall thickness removed. Therefore, you would need .138 PLUS .093= .231", for a MINIMUM, and thats NA, for Boosted I wouldnt run anything under .130" so your talking atleast 267 thousands of an inch for cylinder wall thickness as a MINUMUM in ALL bores. Yea folks thats not gonna happen, I have like 5 blocks now, I dont want to tear down three of them as they are COMPLETE right now, and no need to tear them down for checking as Ive already checked two. Only way this can be done, is for sleeves to be installed. Now what is the Bore centers on a L series 96mm on 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, and 5-6. And On 3-4 is 98mm. So stock bore is 84.5 on Ld Correct? So your talking 7mm over is 91.5mm bore, and 83 stroke, that puts you at 3.27 liter. Where is the 4mm Come into play? Yea see, just doesnt add up. So with a 96mm Bore center, 91.5 bore, you get 4.5mm/2= 2.25 bore thickness between cylinders, which is about 89 thousands of an inch, BETWEEN CYLINDERS, if ALL cylinders are Siameesed. And you CANT Siameese sleeves, and that is TOO thin for comfort. Doesnt add up does it. So how did the 4 liter come into play? Ok, so a reground crank say 1mm that is offset would give 84mm for a stroke, then you would need 100MM bore, YEA RIGHT, You dont have me fooled for ONE second.

Let me know on the head. I can work with ya on whichever direction you want to go. I could even give you a ride, or let you drive my monster stroker z with ITB's and all the goodies .

I have a few sets but I have long rod plans also, but mine are going to be lightened in non structeral places.

"Two concerns with these 1982-84 Maxima rods are the [smaller] piston pin diameter of 20.0mm (all the other L series rods have 21.0mm) and the use of the weaker 8mm diameter rod bolts." Pshhh, Youll need full floating wrist pins anyways, and you can add a 22mm Wrist pin, in a maxi rod. And the rod bolt scenerio, 9mm ones are easily insertable as well. Yes Im not talking length here, im talking Diameter of the journal. It can be done.

Maxima rods are 5mm smaller than L series. You do the math. 83 plus 5= Uh, Oh. 88mm stroke with a 89mm bore. WOW.

He used a external radius cutter, or corner cutter, or corner rounder, etc. Just different names for the same cutter. Ive used alot of them personally. Looks great BTW. I think Our shop is gonna be purchasing a CNC VERY soon actually, so I can get things done faster. I do ALOT on a bridgeport, but three D profiling, is a bit tough, lol.

This is from my website

What makes you think there not opened up as it is? I get about 50 percent better than stock flow with the exhuast. Remember you cant go by looks on a port . Heres a P90 graph, and I actually got more out of this maxi with the liners still in it.

Here is some quick shots of a MN47 cylinder head that I ported and rebuilt and installed a aftermarket cam, with checking all the wipe patterns and what not. Flow numbers were approximetly 219 on the intake at 28" of water pressure, and 156 on the exhuast.

Here is some pictures of the radiator in the car that I described above. I drove the car all the way to California for the MSA show on this radiator, in 100 pluss degree heat. Notice the PERFECT fitment of the hoses!

I am the owner of bandmzcars. I persoally build the radiators. I have one in my daily driven 3.1 liter, 12-1 compression daily driver. I Live in PHOENIX, AZ, and it has hit 105 degrees daily for the past two weeks, and my motor sits right at 180 degrees with a 180 thermostat when cruising, and when sitting in traffic, it hits 185. I recomend buying the entire kit, as it comes with perfect fitting hoses, no flex hose, no trying to go out and source hoses, etc. I dont really make money on the hoses I just wanna offer them to customers if they need them. I pay 42.00 MY cost for the hoses, and sell them for 50.00 so It barely covers my hassles. You can purchase the radiator without the hoses, and that cost is 275.00 with the needed bolts, and nuts. Or 325.00 with everything including hoses. We also have this radiator on a couple other peoples cars, including high HP turbo cars, and it cools great.

I use chevy camaro ARP studs in my car. They are 12x1.5 also so more lug nut availibility.

UMMMMMMMMMM, you didnt look at delta and isky hard enough. I have orderd cams from both of those suppliers with those specs. Delta has a .500 296 duration cam, and a 550 303 cam.

Yea I made the camber adjustments down low, on the lower control arms, rather than the camber plates, camber plates are set in the POSITIVE psoition and then all I have to do is slam them in at the most negative position and it gives it about 2.5 degrees more camber. That way everything is easy to dial in at the track.

I wanted the Tires to have the SAME clearence, therefore thats why I measured to wheel wells. Car looks DEAD level to the naked eye, so I think it will work good. Why didnt I put more caster or camber? Cause this car is driven about 20 thousand miles a year on the street. I dont want a car that is hard to steer (more caster) or a REALLY touchy steering wheel (more caster). I dont want to wear out a set of 800 dollar tires every two months (camber). PLUS I have the adjustable camber plates ALL the way to the positive position, that way when I run autocross events, etc, I can just slap the wheels all the way in at the top (negative), and it gives it 2.5 more degrees of negative camber.

Yea so finally got the suspension all the way complete and the car back on the ground this last weekend. I got the Camber, and tow pretty close on my own with a good level style protracter, like within .2 Degrees. Tow was pretty dang close as well, within a 16th of a inch. So I go to sears with my buddy andy, who works there and we spend some time on the hunter computer alignment rack to get everything EXACTLY correct. We first set Rear camber, then tow. Then we proceed to Front Camber, which was perfect, then caste, which was off about .5 degrees, then we do front tow. So I got my car to these wanted specs: Front: Tow= .13Deg per side Caster=3 degrees Camber=1.1 degree REAR: Tow= .1 degree Camber=.7 degree Caster= Do I HAVE 4 wheel steering, LOL. Man My car used to be WAY out like DEGREES when the last time we checked it, but since we didnt have a way to adjust it with the stock suspension, couldnt do much about it, and the car used to dog track like CRAZY now, PERFECTLY straight down the road. NICE. The Arizona Controll arms are a MUST In my opinion. For 1200 bux for ALL four corners, its a must for sure in my books. Oh BTW, I did set ride height before anything, and I set it at 25.5" from the ground to the apex of the wheel well.

Look at what Ive built, this lets it piviot on the bearing without any bind.

This car is driven DAILY, this is NOT only an autocross car, only sees like three autocross events a year. I need to clear speedbumps, etc. therefore cannot have a ground scrapper.

Yep, only to keep the sleeves from rotating. Yea, all this stuff is arizona z cars setups.

NO, I lengthend the Rears 1.56" and left the stock fronts. These are 240 strut tubes in a 280. I am using azzcars springs, etc. 250 Lb/in.

Heres some pics, info on the website about the setup. I have the rears done as well, but no pictures.

Ok, so I have a 3.1 liter 12-1 TONS of head flow (225 cfm intakes, 145 ex) and .580 valve lift and 286 adv duration, ITB manifold, with MS, etc. I have been running a regular ole 1.5" primary heder with a straight 2.5" ex. I have planned to run the 1.75" nismo header. With probably a 3" exhaust, for simplicity reasons. Do you think the Nismo header will show any noticable gains?

Does anyone know the rate of the TOKICO red springs that come in the kit they sell. I want to get a baseline for what they are so I know how much they differ from like a 250 IN/LB coil over spring as far as stiffness.

Ok, So I wire it JUST LIKE THIS CORRECT? Only thing I dont understand is the pullup and pull down resistors.