crazyoctopus

it is only this one carb that is leaking fuel out of the front. how do i verify that the fuel level is below the spillway? also i tried to make the fuel bowl run a bit shallower than the rest by extending the resting point by about 1.5mm. From what I know of float bowls, by extending this distance the fuel level would be lower. At first this seemed to work, but then after a bit of time it didn't change anything at all, if anything it made it worse.

-Reset the jets just like you stated -Checked the float level and made sure it was at 8.5mm when the tab was just touching the ball valve in the float. When I did a blow through test the needle valve was stopping the air coming out of it. -While I was running my temp fuel pressure gauge the needle never went beyond 3.5psi; so doubt it is excessive fuel pressure. I was curious to see if it leaked at every rpm, not just at idle. Once I did rev it up, the leak went away, only to return again after a short stay at idle.

i do have the brass floats and i'll recheck the distance again, and yes i use a set of digital V calipers. I havent read anything before about how the jets seat, but i will re-do them just to make sure that they are seated correctly.

noticed some dripping coming out of the front carb this morning... I checked the float this morning by following this http://www.webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/WeberFloatlevelinginstructions.pdf I am curious though if i would be measuring to the seam of the float or the edge? after I made the adjustment it was still leaking on start up, but i did measure to the edge. I am not running a return hose, but just bought some more hose so that I can if i need to. I am also using only the mechanical fuel pump. any ideas?

$55 air dam http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/1695831816.html

feel bad for the video editors, from what i remember the 5d records at a different frame rate than what we see on television. for the masses though, the nicest thing about using a standard camera vs video camera is the availability of really nice glass.

what about using a 90 empty / 0 full gauge like this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-301107/ it wouldn't read Full precisely, but empty would be on point.

looking good!

A turbo: Exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens, and you go faster. I do however disagree with track cars on the street.... example: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067893/ if you haven't seen it... buy it now. Even if you don't like drag racing... buy it now.

In your streets, making noises... --slammed will come once 240zdan get the sleeves made

We were having issues last weekend with the engine being temperamental, and figured that it was due to my use of points. So we went out and I picked up a GM HEI ignition module, MSD blaster 2 (oriley's priced matched to $35!), and attempted to wire it up following the standard SITE. Unfortunately it wouldn't start up, at all. I was using plubers tape, and zip-ties to hold it in place, so I knew that the issue was due to the module not grounding correctly. This morning I went down to the local hardware store and picked up a 3" L bracket at about 1/8" thick, some boltsnutswashers, and some electrical tape. I got back to the house and with the help of a ball-peen hammer, and a drill i was able to flatten the bracket out and drill a new hole so that it would gourd to the chassis well. After that i plugged everything back in, and brraaapppp; she started right up. I waited for her to get warm, and then started to tune the idle. The carbs are pulling 3.5-4 on the synchrometer, idle screws are out 3/4 of a turn, and she is idling at 650rpm. While I was at it, and with the hope that she would be moving under her own power, I took Dsalni's advice and cut my fenders an inch in the front so that the tyres would no longer rub. Then I took her for a quick spin, and zombie barbecue... she sounded amazing! Tomorrow I will be taking her out into the real world of stop and go with coffee and cigarettes, so we will see how she is really doing. There are still a couple of things that I need to work out before I rip the wiring out of the car... -Figure out why the brake pedal is as hard as a rock. It is either that the brake booster isnt getting the vacuum it needs, doubtful, or that the 15/16th brake master cylinder that I just picked up at the junkyard needs to be re-built. -Tach doesn't seem to like to go above 5k rpm, but I am pretty sure there is some resister that i need to add, need to search a bit (unless you know off hand

i bought one a while back while i was trying to diagnose my SUs. only used it twice, and never really felt that it helped with the tuning process. then again, my carbs were shot so... mine isnt the best example. I have been thinking about using on my webers for idle mixture adjustment, but I will probably end up using the look, listen and pull as it is just as accurate.

buy 16x10 with the lowest offset you feel comfortable with, if you are are running stock suspension/body work 4.5" backspacing is the highest that 260z can take. roll your fenders and if need be cut the front edge of the front fender to allow full range of motion.

nothing yet, it is under a couple of tarps. I may have to get a new head gasket though, a friend of mine was helping with the front cover plate and bent the gasket pretty bad. Then while i was in the bathroom figured it would be a good idea to snip it off and just use some high temp gasket sealant in its place... other than that nothing, i may use it if the l24 blows up or end up selling it to buy a KA24de or help pay for an RB.

check the wiring diagram, and then start jumping wires to your battery to see what wire gives the fast speed. This is what i am going to be doing with the honda wiper motor. also put a relay in the circuit so that can be ground switched.

26mm Velocity stacks are in! And since it was 1/2 off at the junkyard today I picked up a honda wiper motor and a 78A 12si alternator (couldn't find the 94A version, but 78 is wired the same and will provide the power that i need). There was a 5 speed from a 78 280z, but I have yet to decide if i am going with either the 280z/zx 5speed or the 240sx 5-speed. -gonna head back later this week to get some of the r200 diff swap parts, and then wait on finding a clsd

i think that there is a law somewhere that demand every tall person to use short people as arm rests.

bolt in coilovers would be quite expensive; think about it. coil-overs like ones found in s13s and FCs are truely a bolt in; the shock and spring assembly is bolted into the hub. Our shock and springs are a single piece with the hubs. IMHO the best thing to counter this would be to offer a hub that have the same bolt pattern/location as something that is inexpensive but well into the racing scene, either s13/s14s or honda civics. Take the rear conversion that TechnoToyTuning offers if a hub something like that was made available to work with coilovers from some car it would be incredible. that way all the 240z comunity would have to do would be to buy the hub, and select your favorite coil-over manufacturer for the car that the hub was built around. There is also the issue of front camber adjustment. where the best/cheapest way to add a camber plate is to weld in a plate.

got the rear brake lines routed and installed, and while I was at it I swapped in a 15/16th brake master cylinder off of a 280zx that i found in a junkyard a couple weeks back. and it since it is the night time, my finger slipped and took a shot of the webers again; soon to have 1" velocity stacks!

I am 6'7" tall 185lbs and i fit perfectly with the stock seats. Steering wheel could definitely be smaller, but it isnt that much of a bother.

man if you think VDOs are quality, i only know them from junkyard VWs, then I think I may have found the gauges that i will be swapping in; as they are significantly cheaper than autometer

link to the adapter - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2269/ link for the sender - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2241/ and for the gauge, to keep stock look-ish... low cost - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-350106/ personally like the look of these - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2634/

something abotu having oil running into a gauge in the dash doesnt seem appetizing. semi-on topic: for those that are running an electrical gauge, are you using the stock sending unit or a different one?

in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout. and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire. This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay

this is the spec that diamond racing gives.