crazyoctopus

thanks! and now for some more noise no muffler...

I am using progressive insurance and bare minimum insurance only added $10 to my monthly bill. -25yr old, no tickets or accidents, 2nd car under progressive.

actually... having 6 of those would be... insane. good luck syncing 6 carbs. they sure are pretty though.

next time it sticks at 1k blip the trottle and see if it returns to the 700. mine does the same thing (650 to 900) but I am sure that it is just a linkage issue, yours may be the same thing.

no.

got the new dizzy in and the tach finally works properly, idles better as well. Here are some sounds of the car, and finally one that doesn't overload the speaker. Tomorrow, if i have time, I am going to remove the muffler and see if there is a difference in tone. If there is, then I am going to swap the offset muffler for a straight through. I have been listening to this sound for the last couple weeks, and kinda want a clearer tone all the way through... not as poppy. But if that is not possible, then oh well nbd.

door weather stripping off of the Volvo 740 wagon -with some silicone I should be able to patch up the corner to perfection. And the doors close with just a hair more force needed than when I didnt have them. hatch seal from a 2nd gen Rx7 -hair more pressure needed, but most of the time it closes fine on its own.

dropped by the local junkyard and was able to pick up a clean 280zx dizzy with the e12-80 module for $30! Then I test fitted an FC hatch seal on the 280zx and it seemed to fit awesomely, then found a Volvo 740 wagon and took the door seals. Pictures up shorty to show the fit on the doors and hatch.

Around the town... larger images can be found HERE can't want to get this thing lowered... -yetterben, I think I am going to stick with the GM HEI for now; or at least for another 2 weeks.

does the 280zx door strip not fit? or is this just me being foolish for not thinking that it would.

If you are going wagon the VW TDI sportwagon is pretty awesome. then there is always a scooby wagon.

pedal isnt as stiff as i'd like it to be, but at least the brakes dont lock up when i dont want them to; i'll be doing some tests to see if i can still do emergency stops tomorrow.

here are a couple of pictures for reference.

alright so here is the process to make sure all the tests were equal I made sure that the brakes were squealing (carb metalic brakes) when I pulled into the driveway. if the MC was detached from the car i can push the car back and forth with little effort, signifying that the brakes are not grabbing onto the rotor. 1. adjusted the pedal to the maximum; with the rubber pad off it went from 7.75" to 8.5" to the firewall. -This produced no change what-so-ever, so that pretty much means that the brake adjustment behind the firewall only adjusts height of the pedal, not the actuation point like with the clutch pedal. push test resulted in nothing, car was stuck. 2. adjusted the vacuum booster (VB) push rod from 21.97mm (from tip to front of vacuum booster, not the aluminum bracket) to 20.88mm. -This produced a slight change in so that it took longer for the brakes to seize to the rotor, and when I push tested the car it took some effort, but still a vast improvement. 3. adjusted the VB push rod to from 20.88mm to 19.98mm (the distance from the tip's edge to the VB was aprox. 19mm, measured with a 19mm headed bolt). -massive change and the issue is solved. the push test resulted in the same effort needed to push the car as it did when the MC was out. I measured to the vacuum booster's wall because that aluminium plate god in the way of getting the vice grips in there to hold the push rod in place; that plate measures out to 10mm. I remember reading somewhere that the VB push rod had to be something like 8-9mm to the Al. plate. So my measurement fits in that limit. I am going to pull teh MC one last time and see if i have a deep socket that measures out to either 9mm or 19mm to make sure that I am spot on, and not just barely there. Thanks for the advice, it helped a ton!

weak in a sense that it is as stiff as my fit's pedal but doesnt have the stopping force i'd thought until I get near the end of the travel; I cant remember what the car felt like when it had the 7/8th. The car is going up on jack stands tomorrow for a engine and coolant flush, as well as some other things, so i'll disconnect the brakes and vacuum booster while it is up there. the rear brakes were jetting out solid fluid last time i bled the system (last weekish) but i'll put a bottle on it and see if that make a difference, as well as check if the reaction disc is in proper order.

thanks! there are a few relays that really aren't THAT needed, but I wanted to have most of the switches ground switched instead of hot switched; and actually I will probably be adding one more relay to make the "sounds" circuit ground switched just to make it an even 10 in the relay box couldn't have done it without the help of Martin, and Geezer though

true, and for those that are adding alot of circuits it would be nice, but my maxima fuse box and relay box should fit the bill just fine.

i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one. - modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present - color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box - different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock - big visual change for routing. - red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch larger image found HERE

stravi is your pedal weak? because that was what i was feeling with the vacuum booster push rod turned back, even at the current position the pedal pressure is just... lacking. and only really kicks in at the bottom; i can still lock up the tyres under an emergency stop, but only just. tomorrow i'll max and min the pedal to see if that helps, if not i guess i'll keep trying to tighten down the vacuum booster pushrod.

to quote JMotensen from 2006 on this thread http://forums.hybrid...%20locking%20up my question is what should i be adjusting? the push rod in the vacuum booster, or the rod attached to the brake pedal itself? To me it seems that when i adjust the rod attached to the brake pedal all i am doing is just changing the location of the brake pedal, not changing the engagement point on the master. After I installed the 15/16th brake master I have been messing with the vacuum booster's push rod length so that I can get a good amount of pedal feel, and right when I had it perfect this started happening. So I backed out the rod a 1/2 turn, and while the brake pedal had worse feel it seemed like the problem had gone away, but it didn't. my brake set-up if needed. 240sx rear disc conversion stock front calipers SS lines all around 15/16th brake master cylinder

yep, head to summit racing buy: pair of 14" -3an SS brake lines pair of -3an to 10mm banjo fittings pair of -3an to 10mm x 1.0 inverted female fitting cheaper, and when it comes time to replace your lines you only have to buy the -3an SS line. ---but you have to bend your own lines, and it really isnt that hard.

thanks awoz87! Today I finally got around to adjusting the Brake Booster pushrod in hopes that it would solve the brake pedal issue, and after soem trial and error i was finally able to get it to lock up the wheels and properly slow the car down!! It is a good feeling to take it on the streets without having to worry about emergency stops now. As far as the suspension goes i noticed that there was a bit of a front end floating issue while i was on throttle and accelerating hard up a hill, but all of the shocks are completely blown so this will be removed when i get the coil-over conversion sleeves form 240zdan. after all that was settled i headed to the junkyard to pick up a 240sx e-brake assembly so that I will also have a working e-brake when the car goes up in the air in the next few days to do a flush of the engine and radiator.

miata > stang

Any photos of bijines set-up that you have on hand? I can semi visualize it and am too lazy to search for it; not to mention it would be a nice visual comparison in the same thread.

there might be a air bubble in your coolant system, so start the car and let it warm up with the cap off.