Kevin Shasteen

I love this comment. The answer, as I see it and have pondered, as the epitomy of a properly packaged engine. As my understanding goes, you cant simply take one aspect of an engine component and say it is the most important nor can you take one useful auto math equation and claim it too is the deciding factor that determines all others. However, with that in mind, the three relative dictates if you will, that determine maximum output for whatever level of performance an engine builder desires, are: 1) Displacement, 2) Peak Power Output, 3) Peak RPM As a caveat the performance engine is multidimensional. Three dimensional to be exact regarding these three primary functions. Most enthusiasts, myself for many years only see the engine as one dimensional. For me, and I cant claim this is the right approach for everyone, but once I understood what variables affect (control) these functions then everything else made perfect sense. So, for more understanding of these three dimensions, for me at least, and how they control the behavior of any engine, I put them into relationships, such as: 1) The Dynamic to Static Compression Ratio; as this relationship determines if the engine will be ran on pump gas, race gas, or a combination of the two. This relationship is further evidence of how detonation prone your engine is or isnt within the category of performance you have chose to run in. 2) Compression Wave Dynamics; as this determines the peak rpm potential your engine will rev up to if the secondary engine component parameters match the primary engine component parameters. This relationship determines the length of you intake runners from the air horn of the carb or throttle body all the way to the intake valve. 3) Peak Power Intensity; which is controled by the Volumetric, Mechanical, and Thermal Efficiencies of the engine.., As tuners we cant always be as adept as a rocket scientist, even tho we try, as most of the variables in engne performance intangibles are taken care of by the mfg's. But we can make good use of the control mechanisms left up to each one of us through our limited understanding of those components the mfg's have produced for our pleasure. To give an answer regarding which is more important, intake runner length or the cross sectional sq.in. of the cylinder head's intake. Well, once again - they are both important. Have you ever heard the reference to different performace engines as: 1) Phase 1 engine 2) Phase 2 engine 3) Phase 3 engine 4) Phase 4 engine 5) Phase 5 engine Each of these different levels of engines carry with them different engine component parameters. As you dive into analyzing the differences of each engine you will find that each increase from the lower to the higher phase engine will include, higher SCR, Longer Duration Cam w/higher lift lobes, Larger Intake/Exhast Ports that breathe better, Higher Peak RPMs, and a less life expectancy. To minimize these differences so as to understand the differences between each category; the components of each category could be labeled mild, moderate, or maximum. Keeping in mind that mild, moderate, or maximum is only relative once you have factored Displacement, Power Intesity, and Peak RPMs into the equation. There in lies the symbiotic relationship of the engine as at first glance it appears we are having a circular discussion; but we are not. Without these three categories, you have no relavancy as to what mild, moderate, or maximum is. To help understand the phase 1-5 vernacular we could give a generic classification as Peppy Street Engine, H/O Engine, Street/Strip Engine, Moderate Race, or Maximum Race. Learn to recognize patterns within each progressive build and what equations go into the Dynamic to Static Compression Relationship, Compression Wave Dynamics (not much out there on this subject), and Peak RPM. The Cylinder Displacement to Intake Port Volume will determine the VE within the category of performance you have chosen to operate in, while the DCR to SCR relationship determines race gas or pump gas for a detonation free engine within the level of performance you have chosen, and the Camshaft Profile determines where in the rpm range you wish the peak powers to surface. I'm sure all this makes things clear as mud and twice as confusing(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

What is the purpose of your engine? Street weekend warrior or all out race? Is your reference to 30psi the fuel injector rate or is it a reference to a turbo use? The High Rise intake mnfld mfg's are really tighlip'd about their cfm flow - so, if you are going to have a pro shop create your manifold, you really need to tell them what your objectives are and they should be able to give you the hard data to meet your needs. When you get into an engine that requires a custom sheet metal high rise - there is more going on inside that engine than just airflow. Airflow is important but it is not the only thing going on. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

What I've done is take all the equations presented by Corky Bell and a few other engine builders and try to put them all in one tidy equation. One thing you will need is the other engine variables to make the calculations, relative to an engine. You will need additional variables; like redline rpm and displacement to name a few. Which equation you use depends on which variable, CFM or TB sizing you do or dont have. First you need to know the theoretical CFM needs of your engine; use this equation to obtain that number: NOTE: The [.85] represents your VE% in decimal form, so if you think your theoretical VE% is higher or lower, make your changes accordingly. CFM = (Displacement • Redline RPM) ÷ 3456) • .85 CFM = ((350 • 6000) ÷ 3456) • .85 CFM = (2,100,000 ÷ 3456) • .85 CFM = 607.64 • .85 CFM = 516.49 Once you know your CFM you can then plug that figure into this equation: Gas Velocity = (((Engine CFM ÷ (3.14 • (Port Diameter ÷ 2)^2 ) • (1÷60) ÷ (1÷144)))) Where: Gas Velocity = Airflow Velocity in Feet Per Second 3.14 = Pie ^2 = is the only way I can convey to you this number needs to be Squared Port Diameter = diameter of any circular port opening in INCHES! In this case the port diameter will be your TB butterfly...remember it is in inches 60 = 60 seconds per minute 144 = square feet in inches (12 inches • 12 inches = 144 square inches) If you dont have the circular port opening measurement but you do have an idea of how many CFM you wish to flow at PEAK RPM, use this equation: Port Opening Diameter = SQRT (CFM ÷ .7854 • (2.406) ÷ fps) You can combine these two equations to make one equation: SQRT((((Eng.Displ. x RPM) / 3456) x VE%) / .7854 x (2.406) / fps) Where: SQRT = Square Root Eng.Displ = Total displacement of all cylinders added together in Cubic Inches RPM = Peak RPM you will be shifting at VE% = Volumetric Efficiency in a decimal form fps = Feet Per Second you wish the airflow to be flowing thru the ports at Peak RPM Again, keep in mind these equations are in inches. Since most throttle bodies are in mm you can then add the mm conversion factor to the end of the last equation. You still have to use the "inches" measurement when working the equation - but by adding the mm conversion factor to the equation your final answer will be in mm. This final change to the equation will look like this: (SQRT((((Eng.Displ x RPM) / 3456) x VE%) / .7854 x (2.406) / fps)) x 25.4 Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If you are going to go thru w/this, each point that you want to make (need to make that is to prove your point) has to be backed up w/facts...not feelings. Even if you know that your facts are facts - the judge doesnt know this and neither does the jurors. So, in order for the judge and jurors to know what you know you have to prove to them that each piece of evidence is fact and not feelings. Even though the Consumer Protection Laws are in the favor of the consumer - it is still the job of the judge/jurors to make sure your claim is not just someone trying to make a quick buck from a local merchant. Even though the Consumer Protection Laws are there to protect the consumer - the court is there to also protect the merchant from professional claimants. As a result, you have to be able to prove each piece of evidence you feel is a fact - you have to be able to back it up w/enough proof; be it affidavits, hard evidence, pictures that people you know are credible will testify to its time. If you cant prove these points then yes - it will boil down to your word against theirs. You need mileage, dates, places, people, and behavior of all the players. You are telling a story to the people in the audience. The more complete your story - the easier the moral/objective of the story will be understood. The less understood your story's objective is the less likely you will be believed. This is why a few of the previous posters said the amount of damage isnt worth chasing the incompetant shop throught court..., just chock it up to live and learn. This doesnt mean you cant go ahead and make your point. It all depends on how much energy you are willing to put into this; that is why the courts are there - so that you can address your grievances if desired. If you are not willing to go to court - go picket in front of his shop for a few weekend Sat's or Sundays...you would be surprised how many passerbyers will stop and talk to you; or put out some fliers on telephone poles telling your story....these are all choices you have. Just remember - you dont know what level of scuminess these people are; so dont stur the pot unless you are willing to get dirty yourself. Good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

No, they wont do an estimate, liability doesnt cover PD damages - you have to go to any body shop of your choice for a free estimate. Explain why you want it and what your planning on doing. Get two to three estimates so you will be able to get a good average idea of whats needed. I dont want to discourage you - but if you do wish to pursue this, it isnt going to be a slam dunk. If you are going to pursue this, time is important. Get your two letters out w/in the next 30 days. Send the first letter now, and the second letter in 15 days. After they have ignored you: then get all your pictures of the pre-damaged car and pictures of post-damages, write up a simple one page synopsis of what happened injecting dates, mileage on the odometer, and possible witnesses you plan on proving your claim. Get it filed and dont beat around the bush. Time is a wasting. Even if you have a 5 year statute of limitation...you dont want to wait around. The longer you take to get the ball rolling the more the court will see your claim as less serious. Take immediate action starting w/the letters to the shop. I know you are frustrated - but you need to be sure you want to pursue this. As I said, this is basically going to be a he said/she said claim which isnt always easy to prove in front of a judge and their atty who will probably be good a twisting the issues. Make sure you are totally committed and if you are - get the first letter out today. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I knew keeping my old insurance doc's would come in handy someday. The state of VA statute of limitations is 2 years for BI (Bodily Injury Claims) and 5 years for PD (Phisical Damage) claims. Your claim is a PD claim. To further break your claim down it is a Personal Property Physical Damage claim. So, you have up to 5 years from the time your first noticed the damages to file your claim. Confirm this w/your insurance company as my doc's are about 10 years old. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've always sold vehicles that I've listed. As aux said, beef up your add. Dont forget to put pictures of your interior. I've personally never used CL and have always used Autotrader. If you pay an extra $20 your add will run for ever until the vehicle sells. Not only does your Autotrader add run in a paper book add, but Autotrader will also put your add in their computer database for free. Dont limit your add to just being in one source. Definately list the work that you have done which resulted into a $4000.00 parts investment not including whatever you already paid for the truck itself. One more major point. December is not a good time to be selling trucks that get 10 to 14 mpg; due to everyone saving for christmas..., if it was a corolla that gets 35mpg and someone out there was looking for a college kid's commuter or a 1st vehicle, then maybe things would be different. What you have is a nice looking truck, w/V8; its a collectable and may take a little longer to sell due to xmas just around the corner. 10 years ago, if I saw your add I would've bought your truck regardless of your add. I like those trucks and your truck is priced dirt cheap. I personally believe you have plenty of people that want to buy (as you have already said) yet you are up against all these [older] people who are saving up for xmas for their family and friends. Reword your add, be paitent as you are up agains xmas, and dont wait for people who make appointments. Someone already mentioned, when you make an appointment -tell them to call you 15 to 30 minutes before they come. If they dont call, dont wait for them. It is inate in all horse traders to want to haggle, negotiate, tire kick, play mind games on the seller. If someone doesnt call before they come - dont wait for them. For people that do make appointments and agree to call you 15-30 minutes before they show up.....REMIND THEM, the vehicle will be sold to the first person that presents the cash and that you are not holding it for anyone. Trust me, there are people that want your truck - their primary priority this time of year is to save up for xmas traveling, xmas eating out, xmas gifts and all that is xmas. Be paitent and good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

different states, different rules. You have to check w/the small claims court in your county. It will also depend on the amount of damage - hence the need for an estimate. Something you might try. Call your agent and tell them you dont want to turn in a claim but would like to talk to one of the adjusters at your carrier's claim center to simply ask them a question. If they let you talk to an adjuster - quickly run them through your scenario and ask them for suggestions (all under the agreement that they are not giving you legal advice and are only sharing information - this will give them a disclaimer so that you can not hold them accountable if things dont go your way). Sometimes they will comply - other times they will not. The worst you could get is a no. Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

Who cares if its not entirely acurate - that is very very nice! I'ld buy that as a poster if I saw that in a store somewhere. You should try and duplicate that and sell them. That is very impressive. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Along the lines of Blkmagik's Fruit of the Loom story. Again w/my Brother n law's 442. This time he and my sister had moved to OKC, OK. During one of their hard winters my Brother n law, evidently doing to much stop light drag racing, blows a head gasket. So he calls me in D/FW for advice. I tell him this is a perfect time to upgrade a little w/an Edelbrock Intake, shave the cylinder heads - to which he agrees. My first trip from D/FW to OKC was to pull everything apart and insruct him on what to tell the machine shop. The second trip was suppose to get everything back together - yet, my Brother n law decided he wanted to do one cylinder head while I did the other side; I thought why not - maybe if he learned something he would quit calling me when his car broke down. Remember, each time I'm workng on his car, it is in his friend's garage during very cold weather. Finally, we get to the point where he is finally done and only has to put his spark plugs in - to which he tells me he cant get the spark plug threads to take(?). I tell him he's crazy and to just put the spark plugs in; and he tells me if I can do a better job to do so. As I took a look at the spark plug holes I could see red. Literally the color red was inside the spark plug holes. Turns out, upon my Brother n Law having finished scraping the gasket off his cylinder bank - he forgot to take the red shop rags out of all 4 cylinders. I tried pulling them out w/needle nose pliers - but the shop rags are to tough and dont rip. This required me having to make a third trip from D/FW to OKC to get him back on the road. Those were some really cold weekends. I havent thought of that event since then....this thread is bringing back some good "live and learn" memories. After we finally got the engine finished - the car would get a pretty good 3rd gear scratch. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

No, I'm not a lawyer..., I just play one on TV (sorry, dont get to use that line very often). I used to work for an insurance company that only insured New/Used auto dealerships. One of the types of claims I handled were product liability claims. You really have all you need to proceed - dont forget to check w/an atty that handles Consumer Protection Claims for your state. Your hurdles are going to be how the judge responds to their atty and if the judge actually lets the atty speak, how well you are at debating in the heat of action, how well you are prepared to present your claim to the court/jury, and how believable you are to the jury. Good Luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

This was a good read. Heck, if you do anything long enough there will be mistakes along the way. Many years ago my brother n law, sister meet me at work w/Dad driving. This is unusual as my brother n law and sister were suppose to be visiting Mom/Dad who lived about 100 miles away. They all rush me telling me that my brother n law/sisters 76 442's engine's timing chain had jumped a few teeth and would not start. The engine turned over but wouldnt start. So we rush around bying parts from three different parts stores. One store had the chain but not steel timing gears. The next store had steel timing gears but not the gasket kit. Keep in mind, they picked me up at work after I got off work (late in the day). They were rushing me because THEY had to go to work the next day.., as if I didnt. After getting all the parts and rushing to Dad's where the car was last parked..., in all the rushing I forgot to pick up my tools before we headed to Dad's. The unfortunate side to all this is that Dad's toolset basically included a monkey wrench and a 1/2" box wrench and a 9/16" box wrench w/a few mostly unuseable other box wrenches. Forward this long story to make it longer; somewhere in the 2 to 3 am time frame I am finally finished w/this timing chain swap only to realize my non mechanical minded brother n law drained the battery dead trying to start the car. Had to then swap batteries from my car to my brother's car. Then while tightening the alternater belt w/a large crowbar...., ..., I, not realizing I was pulling the crowbar towards me - as the crowbar slips and hits me smack dab in the forehead WHACK! To add insult to injury I threw the crowbar as far as I could out of anger (folks lived in the country w/lots of trees and under brush) only to realize as I'm watching the crowbar disappear into the darkness - that the crowbar was not mine and that it was my Dad's and that I would have to find the crowbar before I left that morning. I laugh about it now but it wasnt too funny having to rpl timing chain/gears w/only a monkey wrench and a few box wrenches. Oh, yea; if anyone is wondering - you do see stars when you get hit in the head w/a blunt instrument..., just like in the cartoons. Alls well that ends well as the 442 started on the first try. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Regarding the "Spoliation" issue. Seriously, dont work on it unless you offer the incompentant shop to be there with you before you begin. 1) Was anyone w/you as you dropped the car off at their shop 2) Was anyone w/you when you begain working on the car after your car was towed to your house? If their atty is up on the "Spoliation" issue, you can get around that by claiming "You are not an expert - therefore can not be held to a higher standard" which they, the shop will be held to by the state. If you are going to work on your car, which I would recommend doing, until after your claim is over; just make sure you take lots of pictures and have someone with you to file their own affidavit that you did not touch the body work and only worked on the mechaincs...this way their testimony will address the fact that you were not contributory to the body damage in any way. Each time you go out to work on the car's mechanics - make sure you have someone present w/you to view the car prior to you working on it...and take a picture of the car each time w/that person in the picture. Everything you do on the car from here on out will either substantiate your claim or compromise it. Seriously, the "Spoliation" can come back and kick you in the seat of your pance. Before you do anymore work on the car, type up a letter: 1) To the incompentant shop 2) Letting them know you plan to file a complaint against them 4) Need to have them present when your body shop does their estimate 3) That you need to work on the car's mechanics only 4) and, You are giving them a chance be present while working on the car to 5) Prove you have not contributed any further damaged than that which 6) Your car received while at their shop First, this shows the court that you offered them to be present before working on the car. Dont worry about them showing up, after your mechanical work has already been done, as they will see you as all bark and no bite...and then simply ignore you. When you send this letter, send it Return Receipt Requested/Registered Mail. Wait 15 days and send another letter reminding them of the previous letter and that they failed to respond to the first letter, hence the need to send another letter. After 30 days have gone by - most states will see this as plenty of time for the other party to respond, then have a body shop write up an estimate of damages. Once all this has been done - then you should have no problems continuing to your work on the vehicle. To ocupy your time while you are not doing any further work on the vehicle you can be obtaining your affidavits and lining up your time line, and arguments for your claim. Make sure your body shop estimate is done/dated after your letters were dated. This way, the court will see that you did not touch the car until after the other shop ignored their chance to be present. Do your two letters first. They will see you as a nuisance and ignore your letters, yet copies of these letters will go in your case file you register w/the court. The judge will see this as you attempting to fulfill your administrative duty...to which the other party left you no other choice but to file in court. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont understand some venders. As fast as news travels on the net, there is no reason to be stiff necked when your reputation is at stake. What I dont understand is why this guys mechanic utilized such a low SCR along w/such a small duration/small overlap cam. With such a low SCR and small cam the 216's, which were suppose to be the 195's, are definately too large. If SCR were increased and a longer duration cam installed the 400+ should've been easily reached....cant speak for the possibly screwed up machining to said cylinder heads: apparently Procomp isnt going to touch their mistake either(?). I see the A/F for the engine on the link but did not see the CFM Flow Chart for the heads which the link said was given; anyone know the Flow for these heads? If Procomp doesnt clear up the bad machining allegation - their reputation will be mud. Word of mouth, er-uh the keyboard will ruin their sales. I dont see why someone would spend that much on heads, and not go with the current leaders Grumpy listed. I hate war stories; not good for anyone! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sorry to hear about your adventure. I dont like people working on my Z (or any other cars for that matter). This scenario is basically a he said/she said complaint which involves consumer complaint protection laws. Every state has these consumer protection laws in place to protect the consumer. In this case you, the consumer, were purchasing their product (which is their service to your vehicle) which they were negligent in. When you dropped your car off, whereas the body was in its undamaged condition, you gave the shop Care, Custody, and Control of your vehicle. Once they accept Care, Custody, and Control of your vehicle (regardless of completing the repairs or not) they are responsible for any damages to said vehicle. Care, Custody, and Control does not transfer back to you until you sign their invoice, they give you your keys back, and you drive off their lot. Once you accept Care, Custody, and Control (without hesitation or inspection of the vehicle and any possible damages) you lose any real right to complain about it later. So, cudos to you for getting the police involved! That will make it easier for you when/if you do file your small claims complaint. What you have to do is create a timeline with your trailer. Get everyone involved with that trailer to complete an affidavit with dates, condition of the car and each individual involved needs to complete, sign, and date their affidavit in front of a notary...., including yourself. Your affidavit(s) need to relate your involvement in your trailer as well as your experience leading up to you dropping off your car, what you did while their car was at their shop (such as you driving by multiple nights and the car was out of their shop...not in the shop as the owner claims), and how the shop owner acted when you demanded to inspect the car w/the owner prior to accepting the car. With the Care, Custody, Control issues in mind...do you now see why he was trying to get you to accept your vehicle w/out a visual inspection! Then take those affidavits to the courthouse and have them filed w/your small claims complaint. Make sure you request your case to be heard in front of a jury. Even if he does have an atty, they would be stupid to allow this story to be told in front of a jury!!! Imagine how many other jurors out there have had horror stories w/auto repair shops! W/your affidavits in file, they will be considered fact until proven otherwise. The case will pick up w/whatever facts are in the file. SO, get those affidavits in the file first and foremost. Many small claims court judges cant stand atty's because they know that atty's will attempt to confuse the issues (most judges are thinking about being elected to higher benches in the future) so they, the judges, want the people to see them as if they, the judges, are on the peoples side. Before doing all this you may want to consult an atty of your own who specializes in Consumer Protections Laws for your state. If you do decide to file a complaint you need to not work on the car at all. Any addt'l work will be seen as "Spoliation" and compromise your claim. Your case may not be heard for..., no telling how long! You have to decide if you want to wait on the case to be called and concluded (not working on the car until after the case concludes) or just forgetting it and moving on. If nothing else, attempt a free consultation w/an atty that specializes in Consumer Protection Laws. If that atty feels you may have a claim, ask them how much they would charge you for them to do nothing else but write some letters for you - to their atty, when the need arises; and you yourself would take care of all other court needs. Good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just to add my .02 cents worth. A few months ago I was surfing the net for articles that spoke about the inter-relationships between the cylinder heads and the cam profile. I came across one of the Comp Cam's tech guys that had his own site. Pretty close to the opening of the article this guy says that Cylinder Head Intake Port Volumes are not important and irrelevant; and didnt further qualify his statement; he just left it at that. I almost jumped out of my chair when I read that - just thinking about all the people that might be reading his site and w/out further explanation from the author of that statement, will never know what he is talking about. I too had my doubts about a master cam grinder that would make a statment like that w/out further qualifying the comment. Now, because of that statement there will be a numerous amount of tuners reading that comment who dont know that Cylinder Head Port Volumes are very relavant to the specifics of any performance engine. He may know how to grind a cam, but based on that comment - he doesnt understand the intracasies of modifying an engine when a specific output is desired. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ya'll are all saying, "Finally a fast na 350z". My first thoughts were, "Finally, a good looking GTO"! Any kits being offered for this. I must admit, this is a perfect 350z. Any kits being offered for this yet? Need more pictures, need more data. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Anyone see this month's Motor Trend? They did a nice write up on the new Nissan GT-R. Unfortunately it is the Japanese version and not an American version. It looks kind've like a cross between a Celica, Cougar, and 350Z. Its AWD, TT, Intercooled; only 70K to 85K depending on options with a 197mph top speed! Best yet, it is a all aluminum V6..., no more I6. The article did say that an American version is in the works..., but who knows how long that will take. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You do need to do a bill of sale w/the current owners info specifically listed and the vehicle being sold specific info listed as well. In a separate clause you can ouline the amount owed by the bank, to which you will be paying. You will need to do this twice, in other words you will have two separate contracts, one= to the bank to pay off their debt they are holding relative to the debt the owner of the car has not paid, and two=Bill of Sale contract between you and the current owner wishing to sell the vehicle but doesnt yet have the title. Between you and the bank you will want their signatures and your own witnesses if you feel better with that; the bank should have their own Notary on hand to notarize the Confirmation of Sale to obtain title contract. Do the same thing w/the current owner w/in the Bill of Sale, have it notarized and make sure you have your witnesses and his witnesses sign it in front of a Notary. The reason you will need to do all of this twice is that you have two deals going on. The first one is between you and the owner whereby you want the car. The second one is between you and the bank whereby you want the title to car. You can do this all throught the current owner or you can deal w/the owner and the bank. I would prefer dealing w/the owner regarding their equity and then dealing w/the bank regarding the remaining debt. That way the title gets sent to you not the current owner who could then cause you all kind've heck if they decide to back out of the deal. Just make sure before you do all of this that the title is a good title and not a salvage title. Dont take the word of the owner. Before you pay out anything to anyone you will need to get a copy of the front and back of the title from the bank. Dont go off what the current owner is holding. Get the copies from the bank. Kevin, Yea,Still an Inliner)

How much fuel you have in your tank is immaterial to what the engine sees. The engine's "to little or too much fuel" depends on fuel pressure and how efficiently the engine utilizes that fuel pressure. How efficiently the enigne utilizes the fuel pressure depends on how properly the FI sensors, ECU, Injectors, Relays, and switches are working with one another. How much of the 77 harness was used? Have you checked fuel line pressure before and after the Fuel Pressure Regulator yet? What kind of miles per gallon are you getting. What do your plugs look like after a few days of engine use? Are all the ground wires getting a clean contact? It is tough to say what your problem is without a detailed methodical diagnosis. Do you have a 78 Factory Service Manual? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Pyro. You have reached the limit w/170cc heads. Your engine package; all be it a good one is similar to the 5.0's when they first came out. Their cylinder heads were in the 135cc range. For a 302 displacement the 135cc heads were perfect stop and go rush hour engines. Throw in some NOS and they were fun. Put some 160cc aftermarket heads on and the engine came alive. So, what would have been the point w/a factory 5.0 if someone gave the engine a 280 solid cam and building the engine with 11.0:1 SCR and still keep the same cylinder heads? See the point I'm trying to make? Ratiowise (mathematically speaking) your engine the 355 w/170cc heads is the same set up as the 302 w/135cc heads. There is only so much performance you are going to get out of smaller intake port heads. Remember, the word "smaller" is a relative issue. Relative to WHAT? Relative to desired output and engine displacement. Your 170cc cylinder heads are great for a smaller normally aspirated engine. If you are going to use the NOS on a regular basis, w/the 355, then you need to have cylinder heads in the 195cc range: with all other engine spec's remaining the same as you mentioned earlier. If you decide to build the 406 and utilize the same cam specs, same SCR, and the NOS; then you need cylinder heads in the 220cc range. This would mimic 210cc's w/a port job. You can always count on about 10cc being added to the port w/a proper port job. If you decided not to use the NOS w/the 406 and wanted to run w/out probs on pump gas then the 210cc is spot on. Regardless of which way you go, those 170's are perfect for a peppy pure street engine and doesnt really do anything for you cam specs or your SCR. With your SCR and cam specs in mind, it sounds like you want a weekend warrior. Yet, your choice of 170's relative to your engine displacement equals a pure street engine. In other words, your cylinder heads are not matched to your cam/SCR specs or vise versa as in your cam/SCR are not matched to your choice of cylinder heads(?). With your cam specs and your chosen SCR relative to your engine displacement and desired output, you really need larger heads to properly compliment the rest of the engine package. Now, ratiowise (again mathematically speaking) if you went w/the 406 displacement and 195cc heads, you would be in the same situation you are now and the same situation the 302's were with the factory 135cc heads. What displacement are you planning on going with when you stroke the 400? AND, are you going the route of NOS w/the stroked 400 also? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

It sounds like your 406 is max'd out in its normally aspirated pump gas state of being. Are you bored w/it, are you wanting to spice up the 406, or are you looking to replace it altogether? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

There are only a few items to note when you have a no voltage issue, and they are: 1) Ignition Switch (this is the switch activated when you turn the key cylinder and it is attached to the back side of the ignition key cylinder) 2) Ignition Relay (this relay is activated when you turn the key cylinder and this switch then activates your electronic ignition control box - which further activates the coil) 3) Ignition Coil / reluctor (as said in #2, ignition coil is activated by the elec.ignit.box and this allows the coil to fire the plugs and engine starts when starter turns) 4) Wiring in between these sources 5) fuses that looked good but were bad (specifically the fuse that powers the ignition relay: if memory serves me correctly) 6) Fuel Injection Relay, Fuel Injection Harness Realy (if there is a problem with the fuel injection relay or within the fuel injection harness - these relays will shut off power to the ignition control box thus shutting off the electronic fuel pump. The coil is the easiest to test. If you are not sure how to check it-take it off (noting which wires go where) and take it to your local auto parts store to be tested. I always make sure I have a good 12volt coil handy to swap out if and when I experience an engine turns but doesnt start scenario where I'm not getting fire to the plugs. On my 78z I had two problems with mine. I had an intermittant no engine turn when key was turned and then I also had an intermittant engine would turn over but wouldnt start. The problems turned out to be bad fuses, ignition relay that would work some of the time, and then a weak coil. Sometimes a cold coil will test good but once it warms up it will test bad: so when in doubt just replace it. The coil is $25 to $35 depending on brand name, the ignition relay is $35 to $40 from Nissan. The Ignition control box is like $300 from Nissan and has switches in it that when you first turn your ignition key switch to the on position will power up the control box which powers up the coil which prepares your starter to turn the engine to be fired. Now, if the control box is bad it could be turning your ingnition off when the key is turned from the on to the start position. You could test this with a test light while someone else turns the ignition key from on to start. Place your test light on the negative terminal of the coil when the key cylinder is turned to the on and start position. Then place your test light on the positive terminal of the coil when someone else turns the key cylinder to the on and start postition. You could also test the electronic ignition control box by taking it off and taking it to the local auto parts store to be tested on their relay machine. This control box is black (if it is original) and found in the passenger kick panel just fore of the fuse panel: it has two 10metric screw/bolts holding it on. The ignition relay is found just above the fuse panel with the other relays. Check your repair manual to know which one is the correct one. The fuel injection relay and fuel injection harness relay are found in the engine compartment under the curved metal on the inner fender next to the battery. They are hidden to the eye unless you remove the curved metal covering. To test these you will need someone w/experience or a factory service manual to tell you how to go about testing them. One way to know if/when your fuel pump relay and fuel injection harness relay are/or are not working is to jack the rear end up where you can gain access to the fuel pump. Once you have the car jacked up (always use jack stands w/the floor jack) place your hand on the fuel pump while someone turns the key switch to the start position. You should be able to hear the pump's low humming. If you can't hear it you should be able to feel the vibration of the pump once it is activated. If the pump doesnt come on then one of the relays in the chain of command have not been activated for one reason or another. Good luck, sorry to hear you are having these issues (I hate no start problems). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea, I guess I could've been a little more specific also....I hate it when that happens. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm afraid you're gonna have to do some more diagnostics before an answer can be given. Your problem can be anything from a fuel sensor to a relay to the fuel pump to the fuel injection computer and its system. All we know at this time is that your cold start systems are working properly. Need to know: Fuel Pressure on cold start/warm'd up engine? Any noticeable fuel leaks in engine bay? During the cold start can you rev your engine w/out hesitation or stumble? When your engine stumbles is there any excessive smoke out the exhaust; if so what color is the smoke? How soon does the engine begin acting up after start up and at what speed does the problem manifest. Everytime the problem shows itself is it always the within the same time frame and same rpms? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)