Kevin Shasteen

Nullbound, thanks for the offer - oddly enough, Marietta Ga is where I found my Z from the original owner. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The comments from "Here Comes Trouble" needs to be a sticky as it took me a lot of searching to find info on the difference between 5spd's for the inliner engines. Thanks Here Comes Troulbe for the post. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Still looking for a "good" 5spd; anyone have one to sell? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Spoke to Jerry a few days ago at the All Z specialist salvage yard & he said after checking the only 5spd he had, at the moment, said trans had metal chunks in it and he didnt see it as a useable trans. So, still looking for a good 5spd trans to fit my bone stock 78 Z. Someone's got to have one of these trans sitting in their garage - Anyone? S-O-S.., S-O-S.., S-O-S. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for the concern guys - still looking for a trans just a little more local.., looks like I'll be visiting the Salvage Yard in Ft.Worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I know this is the engine board - but my 4spd went out on me last night and it is my daily driver. I already put a similar thread on the Driveline board and have not had any offers yet; and this seems to be the board most visited. So I'm hoping for the most hits possible w/in the least amount of time. I'm in the D/FW area being north-east of Dallas by about 60 miles. Anyone who has a tranny that lives in the Mckinney, Allen, Plano, Richardson, or North Dallas and looking to part with said tranny would be great. I was hoping a few of you who have swapped to a V8 might have an older Datsun/Nissan 5spd just sitting in your garage that I can persuade you to part with. My Z is a bone stock 78 2+2. It still has the stock 3.54 diff. I'm not new to the R&R of transmissions but I am new to the swapping of trannys that didnt initially come w/a car. So if you know that a later 5spd will swap w/out any serious mod's then I would also be interested. If you have a 5spd that will fit my Z and can give me your word (not a guarantee)...just your word, that it was a quiet running and shifted w/ease tranny when pulled - then I would like to buy it from you. Any consideration or direction would be most appreciative. BTW, I have already contacted the All Z Specialist in Ft.Worth and he has a trans - I'm just looking for one a little closer. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I checked out the Buy-Sell-Trade board and everyone advertising a trans is in CA or FL. I'ld like to purchase a 5spd from someone local (D/FW area). If there is anyone in the D/FW area w/a 5spd Trans that will fit to my bone-stock 78 Z 2+2, please let me know as I would like to upgrade my 4spd to a 5spd, especially since my 4spd went out on me the other day. I dont need a warranty - just your word that it is a good tranny. I'ld be willing to pay the going rate. Any consideration or leads would be most appreciative. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The LS1 looks so nice in the Z eng.bay. It looks factory installed - nice job. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Found a hub at a salvage yard...the last one - man these things are getting hard to find. Kevin, (Yea,a Hubless Inliner)

Thanks for the response, I will keep you in mind if I cant get one closer, thanks! Kevin, (Yea,Still a Rotor/Hubless Inliner)

I need a hub for the rotor assembly. AutoZone says any rotor/hub from any Z manufactured up to 5/78 will fit my Z. My Z is a 1978z manufactured in 3/78. It is also my daily driver so I need to fix it ASAP. I had a wheel bearing grenade on me taking out my spindle. It didnt start making noise on me till I was about 30 miles from the house - I almost made it back home before it left me stranded about 8 miles from the house. I've already got a spindle/strut assembly from a local salvage yard but he didnt have any hubs available. Any help would be most grateful. If you have a hub to sell, just tell me when/where to meet you - hopefully sometime in the morning to afternoon. I've already called the Z salvage yard in F/Worth and he said he would be closed utill Monday. S...O...S, S...O...S, S...O...S, Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for posting. I never knew we had something like that in the D/FW area. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You mean by 1/4 a mile at a time? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Pete regarding the % -vs- decimal point thing: I was pressed for time yesturday and again this morning: my bad. Jt1, Regarding the data I've used - it is bascially all the auto magazines I've collected in the past years as well as the numerous how to books I've purchased. The interesting thing I've discovered is that the smaller IPCV numbers to the left work best for the smaller displacements and according to the numbers this rule of thumb the smaller numbers fall into line, with every engine article, for any engine with a 454 displacement or smaller (I know a 454 is not a small block - that is just how the numbers work out: please dont kill the messager). Any displacement larger than a 454 can utilize the larger IPCV numbers to the right. Regarding engine builders using smaller heads to obtain 400 hp and utilizing an rpm specific cam profile - I've thought about this long and hard also. I didnt really know why they would do this until I decided to put the "Cylinder Pressure" formula on a spreadsheet to calculate exactly how these engine builders were effecting said cylinder pressure: then things got a lot clearer for me. I would venture a guess that their purpose is to mirror rodders on a tight budget who cant afford expensive cyl.heads or they are attempting to manipulate peak port pressure (Peak HP) to surface at a specific rpm or they are attempting to manipulate peak cyl.pressure (Peak TQ) at a specific rpm: remember peak TQ equals peak VE%. If you set one, Peak TQ - then you have set the other; or vise/versa. We all know there is more than one way to skin a cat. As grumpy alluded to earlier and we've all heard it a million times, "You cant look at any one engine component - every engine component must compliment each other." This means there MUST be a plan when we first decide to approach our engine build. This is why I chose to divide the IPCV categories into 6 phases. I was attempting to understand why the professional engine builders utilze certain components; it was the only thing that made any sence to me. Remember - to see how effective any engine is you need to know the VE%: otherwise is doesnt really mean anything. The rest of the criteria for those categories are: I) 1) Pre-Boost and Pre-Nitrous BMEP cylinder pressures 100 – 130 psi 2) Post-Boost and Post Nitrous BMEP cylinder pressures 165 – 185 psi 3) Any Boost higher than 6 lbs is no longer in the pure street category 4) Smooth idle in the 600 – 700 rpm range 5) Intake Manifold Pressure at idle 18 – 21 (in. hg.) 6) 2500 – 4500 rpm = Peak Torque range 7) 4500 – 5500 rpm = Peak Horsepower range 8 ) .20 - .24 IP/CV ratio 9) 7.50:1 – 8.5:1 SCR 10) 8.25:1 – 8.5:1 DCR 11) Cam Profile Required – Each power adder has its own approach to making power, therefore it is in your best interest to consult the experts before settling on one profile. II) Pure Street Engine: Normally Aspirated 1) BMEP cylinder pressures 130 – 150 psi 2) Smooth idle in the 600 – 700 rpm range 3) Intake Manifold Pressure at idle 18 – 21 (in hg) 4) 2500 – 3500 rpm = Peak Torque range 5) 4500 – 5200 rpm = Peak Horsepower range 6) .20 – .24 IP/CV ratio 7) 8.75:1 – 9.25:1 SCR range 8 ) 8.25:1 – 8.50:1 DCR range 9) Cam Profile Required a) Duration in the 240˚ – 250˚ range Valve Lift in the .400" – .425" range c) LSA in the 114" – 118" range (actual LSA depends on lobe duration and displacement) d) Overlap at 35˚ or less III) H/O Street – Mild Race Engine 1) BMEP cylinder pressures 155 – 165 psi 2) Semi-Smooth to Choppy idle in the 700 – 850 rpm range 3) Intake Manifold Pressure at idle 15 – 18 (in hg) 4) 3000 – 4500 rpm = Peak Torque range 5) 5000 – 6000 rpm = Peak Horsepower range 6) .25 – .27 IP/CV ratio 7) 9.25:1 – 9.7:1 SCR range 8 ) 8.25:1 – 7.5:1 DCR range 9) Cam Profile Required a) Duration in the 260˚ – 270˚ range Valve Lift in the .440" – .470" range c) LSA in the 110˚ – 114˚ range (actual LSA depends on lobe duration and displacement) d) Overlap in the 35˚ – 55˚ range IV) Weekend Warrior – Moderate Race (Amateur Drag class or Amateur AutoX) 1) BMEP cylinder pressures 165 – 185 2) Choppy to Wavy idle in the 850 – 1000 rpm range 3) Intake Manifold Pressure in the 6 – 12 (in hg) range 4) 3500 – 4500 rpm = Peak Torque range 5) 5000 – 6500 rpm = Peak Horsepower range 6) .28 – .30 IP/CV ratio 7) 9.75:1 – 11.0:1 SCR range 8 ) 7.50:1 to 7.0:1 DCR range 9) Cam Profile required a) Duration in the 280˚ – 290˚ range Valve Lift in the .480" – .560" range c) LSA in the 108˚ – 114˚ range (actual LSA depends on lobe duration and displacement) d) Overlap in the 50˚ to 75˚ range V) Dedicated Racer (Sportsman Drag class or Professional AutoX) 1) BMEP cylinder pressures 185 – 210 (Normally Aspirated) 2) BMEP cylinder pressures 240 – 300+ (Turbo, Supercharged, or Nitrous) 3) Sporadic Choppy idle at 1000+ rpms (idle is not an issue in this class) 4) Intake Manifold Pressures (no data for me to form an opinion with) 5) 5500+ = Peak Torque 6) 7000+ = Peak Horsepower 7) .30 – .33 IP/CV ratio for Normally Aspirated race engines 8 ) .35 – .38 IP/CV ratio for Turbo, Supercharged, Nitrous race engines 9) 12.5:1 SCR or higher 10) 8.8:1 – 9.1:1 DCR 11) Cam Profile Required a) Duration in the 290˚ – 325˚ range Lobe Lift in the .540" – .870" range c) LSA in the 106˚ – 114˚ range (actual LSA depends on lobe duration and displacement) d) Overlap in the 75˚ – 110˚ range VI) Top Fuel Dragsters 1) I have no knowledge on the actual specifics of these engines other than they are extreme torque monsters and high rpm specific These are just rule of thumbs and not absolutes - once your mind grasps how to manipulate the airflow velocity - then you can mix certain components. Remember, as our engines are concerned all we are doing is mainpulated peak Cyl.Pressure or Peak Airflow to surface at a certain rpm range and with a specific intensity - hence why the BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) column and VE% column is so important in any engine dyno print out. It allows you to see exactly how the airflow velocity is being manipulated. The BMEP formula is: MEP = ((HP x 792,000) / (Displacement x RPM)) If you can put this equation on an Excell Spreadsheet in 20 RPM increments you and use it for every engine build you read about - you will begin to see just how the airflow is being manipulated. Whenever I read an engine mag w/an engine build up I always look for certain data: after all, its all about recongnizing patterns. These criteria are: Required Data for Engine Comparisons 1.) Confirm Total Engine Displacement 2.) Calculate Cylinder Displacement 3.) Confirm the article’s SCR 4.) Calculate the Total Chamber Volume for that SCR 5.) Confirm or Calculate Cam Timing Events 6.) Confirm which Intake Manifold was used 7.) Calculate DCR 8.) Was a Dyno Printout offered-BMEP given? 9.) Note how the Engine behaves with the Intake Manifold, Cam Profile - Duration, LSA, and Lift 10.) Did the article offer idle characteristics: vacuum readings, idle rpm-smooth, choppy or wavy? 11.) Confirm the Cylinder Head’s IP/CV ratio and E/I % 12.) Once Cylinder Heads are confirmed, go to the internet and locate their CFM Airflow numbers 13.) Calculate the Cylinder Head’s cfm needed to make the HP the article says the engine has reached 14.) If possible-notice the actual cylinder head’s port opening (Cross Sectional Area) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I would also suggest checking the air gap in the distributor. If the air gap at the pick up coil has backed off, from mere time/mileage, then the engine will also give the same symtoms you are experiencing. I'm not to up on the ZX's but I'm sure it isnt much different from the FI Z's. Check your service manual for the correct air gap and ensure your pick up coil is within those tolerances. Kevin,

Please qualify your statement "wont start". Do you mean the engine turns over but wont run? Or, do you mean the starter doesnt even come on, therefore, the engine doesnt turn over? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

To state the obvious.., People will often make claims that can not be supported - and people who pride themselves as an expert will often times make claims that follow in anger when you challenge them on it. Dont pay the full price unless he can absolutely prove those are the original heads....no matter how upset he gets when you challenge him on it. Just because he potentially got screwed on the price of the car due to thinkng those heads are original doesnt mean you have to. A 100% correct car is not 100% correct if you dont have the original heads with you when you drive away. Negotiations are Negotiations - even if the rest of the car, driveline, and engine block are original....the heads may still not be original: dont let his potential loss be your loss. If its a nice car and you still want it - the burden of proof is on him and words are worthless. Be sure you make him PROVE THOSE HEADS ARE ORIGINAL WITH DOCUMENTATION. If the heads are not original and he told you they are - then he was wrong in one area...if he was wrong in one area then he could be wrong in many areas. The point I'm trying to make here is his potential mistake goes to character. Dont let his mouth do the talking on the negotiations - let the demonstrative evidence (paper documentaion) do the talking. Good luck...those Z/28's rock! 8) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

After the CNC porting - what size are the Intake Port cc's and Exhaust Port cc's? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont envy you guys in California...or New York City in these trying times. Didnt I hear on the news that a couple of military tanks showed up for an Anti-Iraq War exhibit in Oakland or some California city last week? I've said this before and I'll say it again (no substance other than gut feeling) the Muslim Crapola is about to hit the White-Anglo-Saxton-Protestant/American fan. Yesturday evening Usama's latest tape claims he now has "Religious" authority to release a dirty nuke in America(?) There are so many political, economic, and religious paradyms that are colliding - the hate and anger is irrational and the tension is amplified exponentially. I for one would not only stock up on ammo; but food and water - especially if I was in one of the major cities such as that found in California...you guys are going to need all the help you can get. Wasnt it the post Rodney King scenario where the citizenry knee jerk reacted: and the police were helpless to stop it? When the citizens go into herd mentality - the only one you can count on is you...and hopefully your neighbor. I too have a gut feeling that events in this nation are pushing themselves to some sort of civil unrest/back lash. I dont know when or how but it doesnt appear to be too far away. Kevin,

If I may...and no - I'm not going to kick this dead horse anymore (as it appears the buzzards & dogs are already licking the bones clean ), I would like to make a comment regarding your dyno you posted. I'ld like to comment on what Dan illuded to. Remember that Peak TQ is a reference to "PEAK CYLINDER PRESSURES" while Peak HP is a reference to "PEAK PORT PRESSURES". These two elements can be boiled down to one variable: 1) Airflow Velocity When dealing with an automotive engine our airflow velocity must operate within a number of other fundamental variables. Keep in mind your engine is not always operating at Peak TQ nor Peak HP. So if you dong understand the math - in how your engine reaches Peak TQ/HP: then you will misinterpret this "Harmless" discussion of Tq -vs- Hp and possibly be prone to making poor decisions when you choose to purchase components for power modifications. Have you ever noticed the data screen you can toggle to on DD2000. I believe DD2000 calls it the "table" screen? It indicates: 1) Engine RPM 2) FWHP 3) FWTQ 4) Intake Manifold Pressure 6) Volumetric Efficiency (%) 7) IMEP 8) FMEP 9) BMEP These underlying elements explain how Airflow Velocity is altered at all rpms. These nine elements are the most important indicators engine builders thru the years have identified and required to build a successful engine for whatever needs (intended purpose). Understanding those issues and the fundamental elements that make up those issues will help you grasp why your engine has reacted the way it did with your modifications. Have you read the posts on Corvetta's new engine? His engine builder defied the Hotrod Mags by putting 180 cc heads on a 383 destined to be a Weekend Warrior type motor with a cam duration in the neighborhood of 288 or something like that with 10.0:1 SCR (I believe) - whereas, if we were to follow the typical approach to building a 383 taught by the HotRod Mags, we would have put 220cc heads on that engine. So, why did his engine builder put 180cc heads on that engine? The answer has to do with the effect Airflow Velocity has on Volumetric Efficiency. In other words, his engine builder is purposely building this engine so that its Volumetric Efficiency is at its highest when it needs to be - at the end of the Peak HP rpm range. If his engine utilized those 180cc heads with the 10.0:1 SCR and a mild cam duration of 250: then his Port Velocity would be very high extremely early in the rpm range. If this mild cam were used in that set up, his engine would probably have seen Peak Tq at 2000 rpms and Peak HP at 4000 rpms. This means his Cylinder Pressures would Peak (PEAK TQ) earlier in the rpm range. This also means his Port Pressures would max out earlier in the rpm range (PEAK HP). Similar performance to your "Dump Truck" comment. Instead, his engine builder improved his engine's Volumetric Efficiency to its maximum and matched its intended use by utilizing these smaller Intake Ports with the 383 displacement: and then installing an excessive duration cam (288 Duration). This allows the cylinders to bleed which delays Peak Tq and Peak HP. This means Peak Cylinder Pressures and Peak Port Velocity are both delayed. This delay is caused by a lessor Port Pressure earlier in the rpm ranges. Regarless of how you build your engine - all you are doing is manipulating the Airflow Velocity (Peak Cylinder Pressure and Peak Port Pressures). I said all that to say this: Your engine is reaching its Peak Tq early because of its smaller Intake Port Volume or because of restrictive intake/exhasut system. If you wish to push your TQ curve higher in the rpm range, you need to either: 1) Uncork your Intake delivery system 2) Uncork your Exhaust system 4) Uncork both the Intake/Exhaust system 3) Get a Cam w/a longer duration (still doesnt help the restrictive intake/exhaust 4) If Turbocharged - then trim your turbo to not build boost until a 1000 rpms later (providing you are happy w/your engine's current output). Hope that made sense. I dont know what performance calculators you are looking at - but when I wanted to understand these very issues you are grappling with I took John Lawlers book, "Auto Math Handbook" and Forbes Aird's "Auto Math Handbook" and put some of their chapters onto Excel Spreadsheets. I took John Lawler's 1) Chapter 4 Brake Hp & TQ 2) Chapter 9 g Force & Weight Transfer 3) Chapter 10 Shift Points 4) Chapter 11 Quarter Mile ET & MPH 5) Chapter 13 MPH, RPM, Gears & Tires From Forbes Airds book I took his Areodynamics chapter and put it on Excel. FWIW - as a little encouragement when trying to understand all this stuff, the light bulbs didnt really begin to make any sence to me until I actually FORCED myself to understand Camshafts and BMEP (Brake Means Effective Pressure), and how the Cylinder Head's Intake Port sizing effects Airflow Velocity. Once I actually understood Camshafts, BMEP, and the Intake Port then everything was immediatly clearified. Of course all this "Immediate Clearification" was a prgoression of knowledge that I gained over a three year period of time. Is that "period of time" it took me to grasp these issues equal to brain tq -vs- brain hp? Sorry couldnt refuse that one. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Regarding the wiring harness, look under the dash for wiring splices. Look anywhere you can under the dash or glovebox for wiring splices. Any splices may mean a future wiring nightmare. Without an engine - dont give to much for the car: it should be considered a salvage yard car as far as prices go. Certainly its always nice to get a solid (as solid as can be) 240z but dont get so excited you end up purchasing a money pit. Look for the A/C hook ups. I dont know your plans but its always nice when you get a used car if/when the A/C hook-ups are there and the system has been closed to humidity. Besides the typical rust areas that is about all I can think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Regardless of your stance on 9/11 - the nexus of this thread revolves around the issues of legalistic vernacular distinctions of Legal -vs- Lawful: what is a State, what is Authority, where does authority come from and what are the relationships between Legal, Lawful, State, and Authority. I have made reference between these legal (not common) vernacular in past threads regarding police tickets. The same issues involved in police tickets and their presumed right to cite someone are the exact same issues involved in governemnts proclaimed right to war against another sovereign Nation. The difference between the sovereign Nations when a cop decides to cite someone is "Police Officer (state) -vs- Sovereign Individual/14th Amendment citizen (Nation). In the US the individual is their own Sovereign State/state. The Sovereign Individual would be their own State wheras the 14 Amendment citizen would be their own state separate of the local municipality but legally connected/controlled, under the authority, of the US Washington DC/Feds. The Nation outside of the unified States United (America) would be their own Sovereign Nation States. So the same principles apply in Nation -vs- America that applies to the individual American -vs- US/State. The real question is what is a State and what is Law. All injurious claims can be boiled down to two forms of complaints: tort or contract disputes. So, before forming your opinion on the Iraqi war being legal or illegal - you would have to decide if there is evidence of an injured complaining party that has the lawful right to ATTACK Iraq based on its injury sustained by the wanton & reckless behaviour of the attackor (Iraq). All complaints can be boiled down to one simple equation: Duty Owed + Duty Breached + Injury Incurred + Rightful Indemnification = Legal/Lawful Outcome With the Geneva Convention all Civilized Nations (members) agreed to never war against one another again. As a result "Legally" there have never been any wars since - there have only been "Police Actions" to be regulated by the defunct League of Nations/now UN: hence my suggestions of the importance of understanding the real battle here, which is "Internationalism (Globalism) -vs- Nationalism. In law you have Positive Law and you have Color of Law - which isnt real law it is only rules/regulations and in America you and I, as Americans are not bound by color of law rules and regulations: unless you have willfully, intentionally, knowingly signed into contracts agreeing to be bound by said color of law - this is known as authority/jurisdiction. Positive Law is, "You can swing your fist as hard as you like as long as you dont hit someone's nose". While Color of Law is, "You can not swing your fist because we have rules/regulations stating you can not swing your fist". The principal distinctions between the terms lawful and legal is that the former contemplates the substance of law, the latter only the form of law. To sqy that it is legal implies that is done or performed in accordance with the forms and usages of law, or in a technical manner. In this sense illegal approaches the meaning of invalid. For example, a contract or will, executed w/o the required formalitities, might be said to be invalid or illegal, but could not be described as unlawful. Further, the word lawful more clearly implies an ethical content than does legal. The latter goes no further than to denote compliance, with postitive, technical, or formal rules. Therefor, a Nation State that acts in some manner would fall under three categories: 1) Positive, 2) Technical 3) Former rules So again - in order to truly determine if the Iraqi war was is illegal: we would first have to define what forum the war (Police Action) falls into and who is the athority that rules over said forum (UN). If you dont like the UN then you should hang/horse whip the congressional reps that got us in the UN....BY CONTRACT! The real battle is Internationalism -vs- Nationalism. Did any of this make sense:?: Kevin,

Beware Tim, THE MATRIX HAS YOU Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)