Kevin Shasteen

If your engine is the factory carb engine you should replace the fuel filters. There should be one in the engine compartment inline of the fuel line just before the feed line to the carbs. The second fuel filter (my first z was a 73z: assuming a 72 is the same) will be behind the passenger rear wheel next to the fuel tank. If memory serves me correctly it spins off...ps: dont have your face under it when your remove it as extra fuel will spill in your face - not fun. Is your engine the factory dual carb'd engine or is it an aftermarket fuel injected transplanted eninge? When your engine dies, spits and sputters - does it also backfire? Next after the fuel filters you should check your cap, rotor, plug and plugwires as well as the points. The early z, providing this is the factory z engine should have dual points so you need to ensure the air gap is set correctly. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Did I miss something? My comments were relative to his only wanting an addt'l 100 hp and that he would be running with mufflers. He didnt come right out and say he wanted a streetable car but only wanting an addt'l 100 hp indicates he's wanting to run on pump gas and keep the car streetable. You can not run an 13:1 streetable car with a supercharger or turbocharger on pump gas w/out serious and immedieate longevity issues. Sure you could reach extremes but at the loss of streetability. Yes you can run an 11:1 SCR engine (Normally Aspirated) as long as the tune is correct...as you said many modern mfg's are doing this now and have been for awhile. An 11:1 on up SCR with a power adder is Pro Racing territory. From my reading his initial inquirey - he isn't wanting to reach those heights. My comments about his addt'l desired 100 hp was correct in that whichever decision he made, be it normally aspirated or power adder, he needs to tune accordingly. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If you plan on pushing this issue then you need to go to the police station and file a report yourself. ALL police reports are heresay since they are not witnessed by the police as 280ZForce said therefor it doesnt matter if they filled the report out on the scene or not...all insureance companies know that the police report is not evidence of fault they are only evidence that an incident occurred. If you wish to take this to small claims court you need a police report enterered into evidence and the report will be accepted as fact until proven otherwise by the other driver. Lawyers dont care about PD-Collision as the damages are minimal and cant be swayed by fancy talk. The damages are what they are. Anything you get from the other carrier is a fixxed amount based on your damages to your car substantiated by the appraisers report. The Lawyer - if you decide to get one, will take 30% of that at the least. NY is one of the most rigid states, and hardest to deal with; as everything requires a State Form to be filed for anything and it must be filed within very strict timelines or the claim will only be accepted with penalties applied to the tarty filing party. Get a police report filed, hand it over to your carrier, let their adjuster deal w/the other carrier and if anything can be obtained in your favor - they will be more capable than you. Your problem is that you dont have any witnesses (were there any passengers in your car or theirs?), or pedestrians that came forward? Were there any side store employees that may have seen the accident? No witnesses...probably no fault to be assigned to the other driver. Without witnesses - it is a "He said She said" scenario. New York is a PURE FORM State regarding Contributory Negligence. This means that even if you are 99% negligent the other driver's carrier must pay you the 1% damage they are at fault. Chances are, if you decide to push this witnessless claim, the carriers will come up with an agreement for a 70/30% fault or a 60/40% fault. In other words, even if the other driver is seen as having the most negligence you will only get 60 to 70% of the damages to your car. The decision to go forward has to be yours - but if you do decide to chase it you really will be better off if you let your carrier handle the issue. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I havent read the entire thread so I dont know if this question has been addressed..., but - does an extra car count if its being used as a tool box? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm posting this simply because more posters come in to this site than the maintenance board. Many years ago when I first began wrenching I helped a friend replace his intake manifold gaskets. I didnt know the intake to carb base gasket was suppose to be dry; so I put gasket sealant on said gaskets. Needless to say it was a short time before the carb was clogged. Jump forward 20 years later and now my Z's AFM to Intake Plenum hose has a rip in it which causes my engine to run spiratically. So, here is my question - If I wrap this hose with tape (as Nissan said it will be 3 or 4 days till a new one comes in) will the adhesive on the tape have an adverse affect on the sensors or with my Cat.Converter? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for posting that link to the EFI Bible. That article is definately more to the point than the FSM. Big help - thanks again for posting. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Who are you calling gentlemen?

Oh my, where to begin! Crazy that this thread came up - I actually used the "But its just a harmless little bunny" quote at work a few days ago; of course I said it with the English accent. I used it w/out warning and it was funny all the people who knew the reference. Someone then chimed in with the "Holy Handgrenade" and its instructions....we are a twisted bunch are we not? Man, I haven't watched that move in long time - hearing all those quotes makes me want to watch it again. I liked the part where the king and his lot cross the "Knights that say Neeeee"; and if you wish to pass you must fetch us a "Shrubbery". To which the king asks, what kind of a shrub? So then the knights that say neee go into a lengthy discussion of what kind of a shrub they need in order for the king to fetch them in order for the king to pass. Of course, once the king and his merry men cross the knights again - the knights are now the "Knights that no longer say neeee". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for the comments - I too thought it sounded good but would like more tech content also. I also dont like the fact that I cant get a price on their product. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I didnt get a response in the Micsellaneous forum; a few viewed it but no response. Are there any resident Hybridz experts on additives? It sounds pretty good as their website advertisement says it will reduce emissions and harmonic distortions - their website is: http://www.CermaTechnology.com Someone gave me their pamphlet and asked for my oppinion. I would not consider myself an oil additive expert so I'm passing the request for oppinions on Hybridz members. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'ld get the ph# off the cement bags and call them for specifics. If anyone would know what additives would help or compromise their products - they would. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I came across this site as someone handed me their pamphlet and asked me for my oppinion. It sounds good - but I would not consider myself an oil additive expert. So here is their site. I'm curious what everyone else thinks about it. http://secure.cermatechnology.com/ Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

These are my thoughts off the top of my head. To run Nitrous or a Supercharger efficiently - your Static Comp. needs to be in the 8.0:1 to 8.5:1 range. Plus, you will need to run a cam whose overlap compliments your Nitrous or Supercharger. Your current set up is probably at the 400 FWHP as you already stated. You could get another 50hp if you upped your Static from the 9.2:1 to the 10.0:1 and run a bigger cam w/more overlap than you have now: but this will push your peak rpm a little higher also (dont know if you are wanting to do that or not?). I am assuming your engine builder new what they were doing from your description of how well it runs - your cam is currently set up for a moderate N/A performance engine. If you go w/better breathing heads, higher compression, and a slightly larger cam - dont use a cam w/more than 50 to 60 degrees overlap for pump gas: this will put your engine in the weekend warrior range which isnt as much fun if this is your daily driver. You can go either way, compressor or N/A, and get addt'l hp but either way you will need to adjust your Static and cam in order to compliment your choice. Just out of curiosity - what are the cam specs to the cam your engine has in it now for the LSA and Duration? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yes, American Units Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

What ever you do - dont show your hand too soon. Approach him nonshalantly (sp?) and he'll nod at ya; probably ask, "How's that car treat'n ya?" To which you'll say, Well, that's kind've why I'm here. Then go into the story you gave us w/out making any threats or comments - simply tell him your adventure and be quiet. You want to be quiet because it is now his turn to respond. Anything he says at this point will tell you what kind've guy he is. If he is a devious deceptive thief - he'll try to posture in a way that will be clear to you he is a liar. If he is sincere about the incedent being an accident (even tho he clearly misprepresented the car) then he'll apologize and side step yada yada yada. Serriously - after you tell him about your adventure - shut up and let him go on until you have a clear idea of what his intentions are, or are not. If he is apologetic - then say you appreciate his concern; but that his concern doesnt pay your money that you are out of pocket and that it is the out of pocket money that is the reason you are here. Then ask him what he would do if he found himself in your shoes? Again, let him speak and ramble at this point. The more you can get him to speak the more you will get a feel about his character. If he is a total but/jerk about everything and threatens for you to get off his property or he'll call the police - then you know he's a total thief. Make your choice to take him to court or call it a learning lesson - as it looks like you got a pretty nicely painted car (hopefully not full of bondo). If he's starts trying to negotiate w/you then you say, well misunderstandins happen all the time and I believe we can work it out of court. I spent this much on tickets/fines and fees; what do you have that might make our deal good? Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate!!! In your negotiations always utilize leading questions that cause you to be quiet and the other party to spill their beans. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Tornado warning here. Nothing but lots of humidity. The moisture rising from the clouds were impressive earlier in the day. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I cant verify the effectivenss of these equations as I do not have the resources to test them, but everytime I come across this issue in a book the same formulas are thrown out at the reader. The formulas and the approach are as follows: If your vehicle's set up neither limits the length nor diameter required then use the following formulas working length first: Length = ((850x (360 - Exh.Vlv Opening) / Peak RPM)) - 3 Diameter = (SQRT.((Block Displ. / #of cylinders x 16.387 / (Length +3) x25)) x 2.1 If your vehicle set up does restrict either the header length or tube diameter then use the forumulas below starting w/the known variable which is not the restriction: Diameter = SQRT((Displ x 1900) / (Primary Tube Length x Max RPM)) Length = ((Displacement x 1900) / (Diameter^2 x Max RPM)) *NOTE: The articles are always vague regarding the previous two formula's reference to "displacement". Play w/the formula both ways, once w/cylinder displacement and once w/block displacement to see which answer makes sense. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

A hot "Pure Street" turbo engine used as a daily driver will have 15 degrees or less of overlap with 230 or 250 duration and 116 degrees LSA and an 8.0:1 SCR, while a "Weekend Warrior" turbo engine will have about 30 degrees of overlap...AND NO MORE with 260 to 270 duration and 114 LSA and 8.5:1 SCR. Whereas a pro stock turbo cam will have 60 degrees of overlap and no more w/280 to 290 duration with 108 to 110 LSA and a 9.5:1 SCR. I agree about not using the TPI. GM replaced the TPI becuase of it being so restrictive and limited in aftermarket pieces. I too like the TPI engine; but if you want your engine to breath - you pay big bucks to get cylinder heads to breath at all and then their numbers still dont stack up to an old school SBC. You can do it but it will cost you twice as much as an old school engine whose parts are far more plentiful and off the shelf parts are ready to go w/out extra costs at the machine shop. I like the idea of a TT; wish I had the time and budget as I would like to dabble with a TT Z. Heck I wish I had the time to just put a SBC in my Z (Frown). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

White smoke is "Fuel" while blue smoke is "Oil". It sounds to me like your engine is dumping too much fuel on a WOT situation. If you were burning oil (Blue Smoke) then you would be forced to "Add" oil when the the dipstick indicated you were low..., are you having to add oil; if no - then you problem is not an oil issue but a rich fuel during WOT issue. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I awlays liked the guys at Plano Auto too: just when I wanted high performance mods they were not willing to bend....that was along time ago. Maybe they have "edjumacated" themselves since. All I know is Kim Barr out of Garland will do anything for you and his main source of income is the racing crowd - so whatever is the latest regarding the racing performance mods, he will be on top of it. Most of Plano Auto's is factory machining. If you do use Plano Auto - be very specific and get them to repeat back to you what your expectations are. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

In my early days I used Plano-Auto; they were fine for normal machine work but when you asked for something special they would argue w/me. I remember the counter guy telling me my performance engine (Olds 350) didnt need a 3angle valve job. We all know the performance crowd has proven multi angle valve jobs to be beneficial, however minute, it is still beneficial. For the Dallas area - anyone needing machine work should give Kim Barr a call. His shop is in Garland Tx. Unfortunately I dont have his business card/ph#. Kim Barr Racing is the name of the shop (I think-its been awhile since I last used him). He does a lot of Ford, GM, and Mopar for the racing crowd and will work on anything needed. I remember telling him about how Plano Auto would argue w/me and he told me he gets that alot. He also told me he would do anything to a block I asked - it may cost me, but he would do it anyway I requested; which is what I wanted to hear. I know he meant it as when I showed up to check on the progress he told me he has gone through a couple dozen different intake valves and none of them had measured up to tolerance. I had given him a valve checking tool from Joe Mondello and Kim Barr was using it - Kim actually had to call Joe Modello's shop for advice. Evidently, my Rallaye 350 had special heads/valves on them (?) and Kim actually went the extra effort to get the tolerances correct...that sold me on his credibility. He even invited me to show up the following Saturday as Hot Rod magazine would be doing a special dyno run on some performance engine. I would've liked to see that but couldnt make it. Kim Barr Racing Garland Texas ph# ?....call information. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Dave for showing those seats - since they possess the BMW logo are they pricey? This seat you used is the typical 3 series late model bucket seat? They do look good - thanks for posting. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

These are nice looking seats...anyone confirm if these are real or fake? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for posting about the new LS1 "Dyno" book. I have been collecting magazine articles on the LS performance builds for a few years now. That is one book I have not seen on the book racks yet. The interesting thing about the LS engine, which Will Handzel points out, is that the LS's volumetric efficiency is so high it tends to bend the rules relative to the old school v8's. Interestingly the intake ports were not designed the way they are because the engineers thought they would be more efficient, rather - they were designed that way out of neccessity. The efficient intake port design was accidental/experimental...not intentional. Another interesting fact Will Handzel points out about the LS engine during engineering - had little to no friction between the pistons and cylinder walls causing no piston/rod loading as the piston went from TDC to BDC and they, the engineers, actually had to design friction into the piston. I thought that was interesting. This means the LS engines have only enough FMEP required to keep the wrist pin/piston intact and no more. Ergo, less FMEP robbing tq/hp allowing more torque applied to the IMEP creating more BMEP at a greater ratio...changing the tq/hp formula to the users benefit. I really like the LS engines. Its no wonder GM is putting them in just about everything they can get away with. Thanks again for posting the news about the new book. Kevin, (Yea,still an Inliner)

Looks really sweet - I wish I would've discovered turbo's earlier in my performance engine childhood. If you dont mind me asking - what are your cam spec's? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)