leftover z

Ok, I re-read your first post. If it runs GOOD, and pulls hard up to 4500, then it might be your tach. Mine pulls hard all the way to redline. Maybe you can borrow someone's aftermarket tach, hook it up and compare it to your factory tach. Maybe you are really pulling to redline, but your factory tach just isn't reading it past 4500. I've seen other postings with tachs that do all sorts of weird ****, including going up to 3000 and sticking or bouncing around. When you hit 4500, does it FEEL normal, or does it feel like it wants to do more but can't? Until you check your tach, I probably wouldn't try to climb past your 4500 reading. Who knows what RPM you're hitting. Be happy it runs good. Or drive it "by ear"... alot of muscle cars did not have factory tachs.

If you don't have the FSM, a link is in my sig line below.

The transmission & rear-end gearing have nothing to do with problems exceeding 4500 RPMS. I'd give your car a complete tuneup, with new NGK spark plugs, probably new wires, dizzy cap & rotor, fuel and air filters. Make sure you have it properly timed. I'd start there, and see if there's any improvement.

If the new fuel filter didn't help, you can check your TPS. If it got water in it, dry it out with WD-40 or compressed air.

Any clue as to which ones are going out today?

Any idea when the spoilers will be sent?

Here's a pics of my old light switch. Look at the "circuit board" to make sure all 4 wires are soldered on good and not corroded. Mine was fine, but if you look at the 2nd pic, you'll see my problem. I could have cleaned that up and reused it, but I had already bought & received my replacement before I took the light switch out. After checking your parking light fuse, I'd pull your switch first and take a look at everything. A little cleaning might make your switch useable.

I would definitely check your parking light fuse. If it's okay, then I'd bet it's the light switch. I got mine for $25 from DHP123166. Last time I checked, he had one or two more left. It cured my problem, and I didn't have to spend $125 or more for a new one. Or you could attempt to follow Modern30's advice. One other thing to check is the plug on the light switch. My connector was slightly melted, which is what caused my parking & dash light dilema. The ciruit board on the switch was fine. The rectangular wire harness plug was not.

Crazyoctopus would probably like that for his avatar

Braap

I had a saved link on here about restoring a 240Z steering wheel, but lost it with the new format change. I remember the thread was a couple years old. I can't find it using the search feature. A member had posted nice info from his Z club. Does anyone have that info?

Where are you located Juan?

I had the exact same problem. It was my switch. Cleaning it up didn't help, so I replaced it. Piece of cake, and everything works as it should. Even my horn started working again FWIW, this issue has been brought alot in the last couple months, with some threads that have pics. You might try using the search feature Feces Occurs

I'd put in a new fuel filter first as they often are overlooked, and a cheap fix. Then go from there if the problem persists.

Not sure where you are, or what car you are talking about. For $8K you can get an extremely nice S30. If your rig is an early 240, it might be worth it if you are unable or unwilling to tackle some of the labor yourself. But for what it's worth, if the body shop is reputable, and does ALL that labor, then $8K might be reasonable. All depends on how much you love your car, and how much you are willing to pay. Post details and pics. You might get better answers.

Gotta love the rumble with the turbo whine. Damn.

Definitely a Z worth drooling over. Very nice

That's a sweet looking 240. Nice find

I prefer 4 wheels with rear wheel drive.

Now the Stang tailights look nice. Much nicer than the Firebird tailights.

I wouldn't think the diameter of the wheel changes anything as long as you have the appropriate tire diameter (the plus 1, plus 2 etc theory). If the Z was designed for a 195-70 14, you go up to 205-60 15, 225-50 16, etc. As long as the outer diameter of the tire is right, it shouldn't matter if you run a 14, 17, 18 or larger wheel. It's the overall diameter of the tire that effects your gearing. Just throwing my two pennies in the pot

DAMN Justin!!!!

Sure helps when you have the know-how and tools for all that metal work

Think you have that backwards Kash. Lower gear is quicker off the line, while a higher gear reduces your RPMS, which may help your gas mileage.

You have five minutes, better hurry (playing the Jeopardy song)...