bjhines

mmmmmm... I just wanna lick that floor. You guys must be at Bain's place.

If you compare sizes from stock to aftermarket then you will find that many S30 speedos are reading 10% too fast. This is comparing a stock 175/75/14 on a 5.5" rim to a 215/40/15 on a 7" wide rim. The stock wagon wheel had an overall circumference of 76.4" where the common aftermarket tires have a 68.3". http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp?item=Wheel-Tire%20size%20comparer&sw1=175&ar1=75&bd1=14&rw1=5.0&et1=0&sw2=215&ar2=40&bd2=15&rw2=7.0&et2=4&text1=&text2=

I was wondering about your wheel studs. You used the ARP PN-100-7719. The knurl Dia is .507". How did that fit? I measured the stock studs and got a knurl Dia of .509" I was considering using ARP-100-7708 with the exact knurl dia. of .509" Besides they are cheap in the ARP lineup. The knurl length is shorter by a little on these.

Keep in mind that the SAME airdam had a NEGATIVE impact when improperly installed. It had a positive impact when sealed to radiator support and sugar-scoop supports, with upper hood seal as well.

Disadvantage is; more flexible hose means squishier pedal. The flex lines should only be a long as needed for suspension travel and full droop when the car is lifted. Do you need new hardlines? If so, then check out autozone for nice brake line tubing, pre flared with metric fittings in a variety of lengths. To sum up your problems; 1. You used MSA factory replacement lines. They have tube-flare fittings on both ends because that is what the factory hoses went to. 2. You spent almost as much on adaptors and shipping as new lines would have cost you. 3. adaptors failed, that is the learning curve working there. Folks with experience would have known better. You have to learn somehow. 4. You are still ignoring what folks have told you by "re-engineering" your hardlines. You need: 2x ~16" hoses with AN-3 and 3/8"-Banjo ($18 each) 2x Chassis braket adaptors with Metric tube flare to AN-3 ($3 each) ...

6" seems like less than half what you need. Many folks have replaced and relocated the hardlines so you need to measure yourself. Find something that flexes similarly to braided hose and check routing at full compression and full droop. I seem to remember 16" for the rears.

That is the worst model I have ever seen produced of a 240Z. It barely resembles an S30.

I have not priced them used recently, but $900 seems fair for a good condition T56 with all of the associated parts from the donor car. That is what I paid for a WCT5 a few years ago with flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, fork, throwout bearing, speedo cable, mount, shifter, and driveshaft included. There are more of the T56s available, they are heavier, and they have less milage than the rare WCT5s. I would strongly consider buying a NEW Tremec T45 5-speed or TKO 5-speed, They are lighter and stronger than the factory T56 and you can order custom ratios and configurations. This is the Tremec website for automotive transmissions http://ttcautomotive.com/English/products/tremec.asp These guys have your T56 modified with dog ring engagement. Check out the driving video. http://www.keislerauto.com/recent-news/the-all-new-road-a-track-6-speed.html Here is the price list page from Keisler for all of the T56 options http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-bare-transmissions/6-speed-manual/view-all-products.html Here is the price list for the TKO 5 speeds http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-bare-transmissions/5-speed-manual/view-all-products.html

I have a picture of the splitter plate. It completely seals the front end so that air cannot get around the radiator or under the car. Notice that the factory wheelwell ducts are filled with brake duct hose(as well as the airdam ducts). Dual ducts are not necessary but blocking these upturned areas is required. You must also block the sides under the sugar-scoops. I sketched out what happens with and without the upper plate installed on an airdam. Without the plate too much air gets under the car. With the plate installed; less air gets under the car and a stagnation zone expands in front of the car forcing more air to go OVER the car. ...

Is your oil pressure OK? The tensioner is oil-fed and a failing oil pump pushing cold oil may be too little pressure to get the tensioner tight.

What happened to this? Did the realization that you still need suspension camber kill it?

ok.. There is nothing to keep the control arm from rolling around with the sway bar action(or am I just crazy?). The "Hockey Stick" on the factory control arm kept it level. Yours has rod ends everywhere. The aftermarket kits have a rigid dogleg attched by a rigid clevis(mounted further out with a longer moment arm) that can only pivot in one plane. This design also holds the control arm level.

I don't know what to tell ya. You can assume that most retailers are getting 200% mark-up on kitted parts. They charge for their knowledge. They usually source good stuff too. MM makes a fantastic kit even if it is a little more expensive. There are a few suppliers I have seen that will attach any configuration you like with die-crimped fittings. You will have to hunt for that, I don't have anyone right off the bat. My gettin-spot for a lot of stuff is Pegasus Racing Supplies. They only offer AN-3 to 3/8" banjo. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecID=755 so you would need the wheel end adaptor that attaches directly to the chassis brake line clip/holder. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4205 That way there is no extra weight or fittings on the wheel end.

I ordered custom braided stainless lines from Pegasus Racing Supplies for ~$16 each line.. Banjo to metric flare. I would not use that stack of fittings on the wheel end of my brake system. That is just wrong on sooooooo many levels.

Seriously, I know English is not everyone's first language, but you have got to do better if you want help from intelligent car guys. You have not posted an easily readable response YET... "Could OF" is ghetto vernacular. Punctuation is NOT OPTIONAL. The piston in the MASTER CYLINDER must retract all the way back in order to expose the hole to the fluid reservoir. You cannot bleed the brakes if the master cylinder piston is not completely retracting. I have run into problems with new master cylinders buggering the bleed process. The piston and seals can get stuck partially retracted and fluid simply will not flow properly through the system. Vacuum bleeding can exacerbate the problem by pulling the piston forward in the MC and blocking the reservoir hole. You can try pushing air into the lines from the caliper end to "seat the piston back" in the MC. Fluid should flow easily once the piston retracts completely. Watch out though, pushing air into the lines from the caliper end can suddenly "free" the piston and blow brake fluid(from the reservoir)all over your car's paint job. Brake fluid is an effective paint remover.

SPELLING IS NOT OPTIONAL!!!! Do they still teach kids spelling and grammar these days? God damn... BOTH OF YOU!!!! It sounds like you have air in your lines. If you describe your method for bleeding the brakes we might be able to help. The pulling to one side is more likely to mean that you have a bad front caliper. The squishy pedal seems like air in the system. The pedal staying low means you have something SERIOUSLY wrong with the installation of your master cylinder.

I have been messing around out in the cold cold shop looking for something to do lately. I figured I would make some ducted backing plates to fit the new Arizona Z Car big brake kit I just installed. While looking for a good way to accomplish this, I thought of the typical duct-hose Zip-tied to the strut like most people do. I really wanted something that would take advantage of the nice curved vane rotor's ability to move air. The opening in the rotors is 8.5", that does not leave much room to get a duct to blow directly into the center of the rotors. I already made some nice 3" airscoops to fit the back of the airdam. I really wanted that air forced directly into the cooling vanes of the rotors. As it is, I have half the 3" duct blowing into the center and half blowing on the disk suface. I left very little clearance to the disk surface so not much air will escape the overhang. I think I figured a pretty good way to accomplish this with some blingy stainless-steel fab work. This is still a work in progress as I have 2 duct hoses going to each front wheelwell. I am using the 3" hose from the airdam to feed the backing plates. The second hose is smaller(2.5") and it will be mounted to blow directly on the caliper. Overkill??? maybe... maybe not? Anyway, here are the pics so far. 20g stainless sheet, bead-rolled for stiffness, thinwall stainless tubing, tig-welded of course. ....

I have both the paper and plastic liners in good condition. PM me.

Juan240z, I have several sets of 240 stub axles. If you need them PM or Email me.

I used 2 bolts on top of the poly mount to keep it from twisting. The single hole the "RT mount" was designed with, will allow the pieces to twist when you tighten them.

There is always some slop between the pressure plates and the cross/pin. So yes, CLSDs are prone to more slop and noise. All sorts of things can exacerbate noise or slop...like low ramp angles, low clutchpack preload, spider/side gear lash, overall diff-case design.

The shitty design of the OEM CLSD has come to haunt someone else. It's a piece of garbage compared to a lot of aftermarket options out there. JM, lets link him to the diff thread that shows the differences between the various units on the market.

Sometimes when I loose a bid on an item, I feel cheated. I loose by .50 cents in the last second on an item that I am the sole bidder. WTF? Then the item is relisted by another Ebayseller in the same state with the same photos(often with a higher starting price. WTF? I have lost interest in Ebay in general.

I have only had a handful of Ebay transactions that have gone well. Most of my experiences have been plagued by Overpriced shipping, item not like description, bad shipping practices end up ruining items, sellers never ship items, returns and monetary resolutions always end up loosing me money due to various reasons. I have not purchased much in the past few years due to this risk. It seems that whenever I get interested in Ebay again I get bitten within a few transactions. I really don't see the point of Ebay anymore, It is a theives' guild and money mine for shady individuals. There are at least as many bad-faith sellers as good ones. For every dollar I may have saved hunting for used goods, I have lost $2.