bjhines

Don't buy from this Ebay seller. He stole $60 from me. Erickbravo909 Erick Tanudjaja, He lives in CA, His email, Phone #, and addy are readily at hand. He never shipped the item. I contacted him several times about this transaction and he basically strung this out until I had no recourse after 45 days. I can't leave feedback, I cannot make a claim against him, Paypal is the same. Lesson learned; Don't give anyone any slack on ebay. You absolutely must go straight for the jugular. 45 days is the limit on anything you can do as a buyer. Ohh... and Paypal and Ebay REALLLLLLLLLLYYYYYY do not like chargebacks. If you want to continue to buy and sell on Ebay using Paypal, You had better not use your credit card company to issue a chargback for non-delivery of item after the 45 day "Ebay protection period". With that said... 4uck Paypal, I may not be able to use paypal anymore after this.

I have these UK wheels that have some fat lips. They are for sale. $800 15x10" with 5 3/16" backspacing. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=158964 ...

I am using a variety of lipstick and chip cameras and my old MiniDV camera as a recorder. I have a few microphones and a mini preamp for sound input. I can mount the lightweight cameras anywhere(inside or outside) using tape, zip ties, bubble gum, or suction mounts. The MiniDV handycam-recorder, power distro, and audio preamp all fit in a mini Pelican case that is strapped to the tranny tunnel. That way the camera recorder is shock isolated and the cameras go anywhere.

The whole idea of max perf/traction and snow/ice use is nonsense. It sounds like 2 different sets of tires are called for here.

I use the IOport mount for my older tape drive cameras. It is large and jiggly. I use the safety strap to put some preload tension on the mount to keep it still. It just makes it harder to use.

Use the stoutest mount possible. You will notice the interior of the car jiggling if you use a loose or "shock isolated" mount. Cameras are lightweight and have no moving parts now. The old days of shock mounting the camera are past. With no tape drive anymore there is no need to isolate the camera from vibration.

I didn't get the idea that was available to purchase. The fella stated it was a one-off personal Z project.

Like TiZ, I should give up... Not my head. You guys get soo into which seat you use(how it looks), yet you have not a care in the world for the rest of the picture. You guys should keep in mind that there are a lot of people who notice this stuff and cringe. It reflects poorly on the builder and owner of the car. The information you really need is: seat width, rake angle, mounting point types, mounting height(headroom in situ), shoulder width(wide seats interfere with doors), padding type(can it be modified for fit?), weight, SFI/FIA ratings, belt opening locations and numbers. Then a general idea of owner's body dimensions/availble seat variations, and dealers/owners available for test-fitting.

You can forget about speed ratings, You can forget about brand names. You can foget about load ranges. You can forget about profile height. You can forget about tread patterns. You can forget about directionality. All of that is useless for this discussion. If you want grip then sort your choices by the lowest UTQG rating possible. A good set of DOT-legal, sticky tires will have a UTQG rating less than 150 and as low as 40. The lower the number the stickier the tire and the shorter it's life. I run Bridgestone RE01Rs on track and street on my BMW M3. I don't drive that car in heavy rain, ice, snow, or bad weather at all, but I do drive it on the street regularly.

Prolaximus, There are no NO ANTI SUB BELTS in your pic... WTF!

LOL... TiZ was not talking about a rollover. ANY impact, even bumping a curb in a parking lot can kill you when your skull meets the tube. Your car will not pass basic tech in that form for ANY DRIVING EVENT. The first thing that any trained driver notices is your lack of padding. You need to realize that WE do not consider that controversial, just ignorant. Using a car with an unpadded roll bar is akin to hammering your lug nuts on, filling your tires with propane, PVC-plumbing gas lines, or turbo emblems on a Yugo(the yugo will kill you).

I just bought a set of AZC brakes. I have watched online ads for few years and found many folks selling used or not used, NIB AZC kits for nearly what they cost from Dave. I chose to buy them from Dave/AZC at his price to keep him happy and selling new kits. I have always kept it in my mind that people who keep trading the same set of brakes from owner to owner are not doing manufacturers any favors. I have it as a rule not to buy currently-available goods, second hand, unless they are 30-50% less $$$ or better.

45 minutes and no response... I know its not a chat room, but there must be some brain cells a burnin tonite. The outside of a tire sees the widest range of loading. The inside of a tire can be less compliant without penalty. also... The alignment and tire shape puts the sidewalls at an angle; wider track width and braced against lateral forces inside and outside. The greater compliance of the outer walls will allow using less dynamic camber gain from the suspension. This leads to better geometry with front-rear weight transfer when camber gain is NOT desired.

I took a long look at the poor quality proofs of concept at the bottom. The contact patch sheet is the most telling. The way I see it, The tire's outer wall is tall and complaint, The inside wall is short and stiff. The outer wall allows greater compliance and load distribution while maintaining overall tire diameter. The short inner wall reinforces overall tire stiffness and feedback and is lightly loaded. This also is shown to payoff in the ability to set TOE angles to ZERO. The actual alignment should bias a little weight to the inside by having a hair MORE neg-camber than the tires require for flat static contact. ie. 2.5 degree tires might get -2.6 degrees actual suspension adjustment.

Am I crazy?... don't answer that... To use the "cambered tires" you set the camber on your car to plant the tire FLAT(-2.5dg). The whole trick was in the ZERO toe angles. This assumes you still maintain proper camber gain in a corner. This was entirely NOT about reducing camber in your suspension set up(you must match it to the tires' -2.5 degrees). You could NOT swap different angled tires at the track WITHOUT matching their angles with suspension camber adjustment.

I found a facebook entry for some tire shop that mounted a few sets on customer's cars. Not much more info on availability though.

Nice read there. Where do I sign up for a set? Seriously, has no one thought of that before? Zero Toe front and rear and 2.5 degrees of negative camber to run them is not too bad.

LOL, My wife is OK with the Z-car, It is the BMW M3($$$pit) and all the free-cars I bring home that she hates. I have friends and family that think I am a great place to drop off cars that dealers would not offer anything on trade in. I have done fairly well by fixing them and selling them. She just hates seeing the junkers in the driveway. My newest edition is a 1987 Maxima Station Wagon with only 35K on the odo, and perfect garage kept condition. It needs a new AC pump and it goes out for sale. I had a girlfriend who I was REALLY fond of who said something about me and my damn car hobby, That was ok until she made some ultimatum about me getting rid of the cars or else. I chose the "or else" option on the spot. I never looked back.

Tony D's system would use a regulator like The Aeromotive 2 port A2000. http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/carbureted-regulators/a2000-2-port-bypass-regulator/ It is designed to go on the return-end of a matching fuel log for a Holley carby. It may be problematic for Webers though. The Aeromotive fuel log is significantly larger than the fuel lines and slows flow down to keep from causing Bernoulli/venturi effects at the carby inlet tubes. You might not get the pressure you intend on the skinny inlets for Webers with all that fuel flying past. The typical Bypass regulator works the same way except the pump side tees out to the carbys. This would work like the Aeromotive A1000 regulator. http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/carbureted-regulators/a1000-carbureted-bypass-regulator/ The return is still after the internal valve and everything else. The downside is that it does not constantly refresh the fuel rail with cool fuel. You could still use a restricted bypass off the Tee as long as it flowed very little fuel. The older style of hookup with NO return is generally prone to inconsistent operation under extremes. The VERY NICE, well made Aeromotive A4 regulator will give you good performance with no return as long as you use a carby specific pump. http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/carbureted-regulators/a4-carbureted-regulator/ ...

ZCARNUT!!!, I MUST make amends.... I rechecked my harness and found that the Alternator relay was always-ON, no matter what was energized. I also had low resistance across 3 of the terminals. I opened it up and found that the alternator relay was welded closed and the coil is burned as well as shorted to ground. I obviously did not confirm coil operation on this one. YOU ARE EXACTLY RIGHT.. All this time I was completely wrong about the contacts on the alternator relay operation. The system functions exactly as the manual states even for the 240Zs. The Alternator relay is N-OFF(unless the contacts are welded closed:)). ♥♥♥♥ .. That is embarassing. Here is a picture of the burned alternator relay that screwed me up.

EDIT:::: Zcarnut is exactly right!!! You can be sure if you confirm that the Alternator cut relay is a NORMALLY ON or N-OFF relay. There are plenty of other people who describe it as you say.. But I am not sure that the translation is correct. EDIT:::: Zcarnut is exactly right!!!

Z-carnut... If your sytem is not functioning properly then the failure mode is PUMP ON with KEY ON. The early cars had the power connector near the fues box just like the later cars. They often received the electric pump upgrade presale or under warranty until the factory began installing them on every car. APOLOGIES TO ZCARNUT!!!! EDIT::::This is not correct.:::: That is up for debate as to what various years and service recalls actually did. I traced the circuits on several cars and found that the pump only works when you first turn the key to the ON position, The START position temporarily disables the electric pump. The pump shuts off, and stays off, when the alternator spins fast enough to produce current(engine running). EDIT:::: This is not correct. I have rechecked and found that the electric fuel pump operates just like the manual says:::: I have pics from the early 1973 model fitted with SUs, and air injection. The various years had some significant differences on the passenger kick-panel related to wiper delay, auto-wiper with washer fluid button, Watertemp/AIR logic, subfreezing AIR lockout, and possibly a few others. BUT... The same basic operation of the fuel pump remained. That is not to say you don't need more fuel with major changes. I would consider a more stable, fully regulated system with a full bypass regulator referenced to vacuum. Replumb equal sized lines for feed and return. Place the regulator close to the carbys. This is as stable as it gets and it does it without loading down the pump. You could go to extremes with a PWM controller for your pump too.

EDIT::: Fuel pump works with the engine running The factory return system was there to assist with clearing vapors from the lines as close to the carbys as possible. There was no regulation because the various pumps could never over-pressure the system. In a modified system you can do a whole bunch of different things. A return style regulator should be placed as close to the carbys as possible. The return system would work like diagram 5. The lines need to be of equal size so there is no way a monster pump could over-pressurize the system.

The triples are sensitive to heat, most carbs are. Header wrap the exhaust Make a well fitting multi layered heat shield use a cold air box(this makes a HUGE difference in consistency in any weather). Use the stock fuel rail with the stock return restriction(make sure it is clean). insulate the fuel rail from the hot manifold bolts(later years did this with nylon). insulate(sleeve/cover) all the fuel lines and rail. Use a typical carby fuel pump and no regulator. If you want to regulate your system then use ANY fuel pump(EFI or CARBY), and use a return style regulator near the carbys. In this installation you will need to run new lines from the tank of EQUAL SIZE!!!!! for feed and return. DO NOT USE THE SMALLER RETURN LINE! or you will not get the regulation you require. ...