bjhines

Many of us reweld the rear inner and outer fender lips back together. I agree it is somewhat structural, so do it.

The fuel does not burn so there is extra O2 left over, so the EFI increases richness until O2 comes down to the calibrated level. BMW for one decided that this was worth fixing on a high end motor. The later inline-6 motors had an entire manifold dedicated to idle air and mixture vaporization. It looks like a second fuel injection rail, but it is only Idle air that is introduced to the ports to improve atomization of the injector spray.

Walmart= Mallwart (since they anchor the ugly strip malls). Target= Tarshjay Make it sound French Home Depot= Homie De-pot McDonalds= McDougals (from some comedy from the 80s) Harris Teeter(Grocery Store)= Harry Peter(away from kids) and Tajma-Teeter (because they were some of the nicest stores back in the 90s) Chick-Fil-A= Chicken flogger (Those cows bust out some baseball bats off camera) Taco Bell= Taco Smell (my 6yo loves that one) Best Buy= Breast Spy(I know, I know) Harbor Freight= Harbor Fright Toys-R-Us= Toyasaurus Bruger's Bagels= Booger Bagels Burger King= Booger Cream Koolaid= Bug Juice ...Kids love that one too When my 6yo asks, "where did you get that?"(snack or whatever) I respond "The Gettin spot". If she asks for some food other than what we are serving. I respond "I can make you some Roach soup and sawdust crackers." I actually had to follow through once... I pulled the cover off the light over the sink and swept some sawdust off the gargage floor. That was as far as I had to go. Fried Worms are also on the menu because I have a copy of a tweenage book "How to Eat Fried Worms" to back it up. Convicing enough for a 6yo anyway. I have to watch my names for popular personalities around kids. That is a big list.

I can see the general thinking behind the title. The main difference here is related to ATOMIZATION of the idle mixture and not general TUNING of the E.F.I. vs CARBY systems. This has been alluded to by several people. You can tune a carb lean or rich, the same goes for EFI. The way the fuel is introduced into the ports is very different though. You can't just assume that EFI will run cleaner than a carby. The EFI is more responsive and MUCH more reliable than the old carbys ever hoped to be. EFI really does not know how much fuel is IN THE MIX! It relies on O2 readings to determine mixture ratio. Poorly atomized fuel(beatup injectors) will not completely burn in the chambers. The O2 readings are spot-on but you are still dumping large amounts of unburned hydrocarbons out your tailpipe. This is your stink!!! EFI at IDLE: (with worn-out injectors?) The EFI system relies on the spray pattern of the injectors. The EFI fuel is squirted right on top of the valves. There is almost no time for further vaporization before the fuel enters the chamber. CARBY at IDLE: The carby provides PRE-emulsified fuel to a point just under the throttle plate. The air here is high velocity and low pressure which WHIPS the already emulsified fuel into a fine mist. Furthermore, any remaining droplets have a long time to completely vaporize before the fuel enters the combustion chamber. There is at least 12" between the idle ports and the intake valve. I could easily street-tune my DCOE 45's to run clean/lean enough to leave tan-white deposites in my tailpipe. My track-jetting would foul the plugs if driven on the street and blacken the tailpipe, but on-track it ALSO left tan-white soot in the tailpipe. I ran TRIPLE F/A ratio meters and they were right around 13-1 under most conditions in the appopriate application for the jetting. There is more to this than meets an inexperienced tuner. Tuning for street vs track required more than just jet changes. Things like main venturi "chokes", and accelerator pump must also be changed. Smaller chokes make everything easier to tune, larger chokes make a little more power at high RPM but make transition and midrange tuning hell. The IDLE and MAIN circuits are the most basic tuning points for ANY carby. These should be relatively easy to get right. It is transition and low-vauum compensation that are tricky.

I got another set of factory 280ZXT axles and rebuilt them myself. It is not that hard to do. The right hand axle bar is only 14.25" long on the 280zxt axle. The RH 300ZX is closer to 16" long.

I have forged Superlight front calipers that use pad series 7420 I have forged Dynalight rear calipers that use pad series 7112

I purchased a set of AZC brakes and got these numbers right off the front rotors that came with the kit. They are only $40-$45 each. There are UL32(ultralight), HD48(heavyduty), and GT rotors. The part number above specs an HD rotor that weighs 12.7 lbs. The UltraLights that Dave is shipping right now are 2.6 lbs lighter each. Current ArizonaZCar front rotor part numbers; 160-2894 UL32CV 12.19" x 1.25", 8x 0.325" on 7"bc, UltraLight, cast iron, 32x curved vanes, 10.1 lbs. 160-2895 http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=1197 http://store.revolutionbrake.com/160-2895.html http://www.ptpfab.com/cgi-bin/store/store.cgi?&shop=ptp&cart=69451061x18292&session=4b18dc334774bd35&L=eng&Category=300032 If you really want to spend some money then AP Racing has the rotors for you. Here is a 48 vane AP rotor http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?product=32mm+Thick%2D177%2E8mm+P%2EC%2ED%2E+%2D+Bolted+%2D+CP3784%2D6080%2F6081_2147_2143 This is a 36 vane AP rotor from Pitstop. http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=19620 Here is a 60 vane AP rotor that might fit. http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=58792 I think this is the most expensive rotor I have found http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=49800 I would check hub true first. Then I would check that bearing-race-seats in the hubs are not dinged by a PO. Dave's website instructions include checking these things and turning hubs to true them before assembly. If I have any problems then I will turn the whole rotor+hub+race assembly in the brake lathe.

I have some closer crops. ...

I must be 50.. **** I'm gettin old.

I own a Nissan Pulsar ITC car with the fuel cell mounted low in the trunk and the pump high on the rear seat-back panel. It works fabulously, it primes easily and has a canister-filter just after the pump.

I used 3/8"(-6AN) for everything(feed and return). I ran aluminum hardlines under the car. I have dual high pressure EFI (in tank)pumps with an Aeromotive return regulator near the carby. I figure the dual EFI pumps will supply more than enough flow rate for just about anything I could shoehorn into the engine bay. I am also set for a future EFI system on a later motor.

I put a full twisted wrap around each bolt, but I saw the method you used many times. I was checkin out fasteners at the airport and found that they were messy and inconsistent. Many of them are anchored to much larger parts, which makes the large end look more like a bread-bag tie.

I found that all PCVV are not created equally. Some are highly restrictive. All are considered check-valves(one way), but some do not positively seal. Some of them have weighted check pintles that do not close easily when mounted upside down. Some of them do not open easily when right side up. I pulled dozens out of their packages to check flow and operation to get the results I wanted from the primary and secondary valves. I wanted the primary PCVV to flow a moderate amount of air to maintain a quality idle with a mild cam while still generating decent vacuum on the crankcase. The secondary releif valve needs to flow as freely as possible(to relieve overpressure) and close easily with a positive seal to maintain vacuum.

I have been using this entire V8 track car project to hone new skills and justify buying a few neat tools. This is one of my first functional TIG welding projects. I am by no means a practiced TIG welder. I have been learning to focus and control the heat to allow welding thin(0.065") aluminum tubing. This project was done with a base model TIG torch with control on the handle. I have since purchased a pedal controller and hope it pays off in the future. I found it very difficult to use the thumb wheel on this particular project. The goal of this system is to provide the required catch-can volume for spill control and to provide a functioning PCV system. The engine is a mildly cammed 327 SBC. It should provide good vacuum in the paddock and on decel. The system consists of 2 valve cover breathers connected to 5/8" hoses that TEE and run down to the quart capacity catch can. The baffled can has a 3/8" vacuum takeoff that is connected to a 3/8" hose, PCV valve, and then to the carby's manifold vac port. The catch can has an additional PCV valve mounted in the top to allow overpressure release while closing to maintain available vacuum. I use a several techniques to fabricate the parts for the canister. I used 6061 grade 0.065" plate and 0.065"- 3" dia tubing. I made 3 identical dished covers for the top bottom and baffle. I rough cut 3 disks and used the flaring die to dish them. I then used the center hole to chuck them all stacked onto a bolt and lathe-turn them down to diameter to fit inside the 3" tubing. I made a threaded NPT bung for the drain and a larger bung for the secondary PCVV grommet. I made a ribbed 5/8" hose nipple on the lathe and coped it to fit tangent on the 3" canister. I made a 3/8" barbed nipple for the vacuum port using a flaring tool. Here is an iside picture of the baffle positioned above the 5/8" inlet post. Bottom welded on and drain-bung attached. Here it is installed in the car. You can see the 3/8" vacuum port sticking out above the baffle and the secondary PCVV in the top of the canister. The top PCVV opens to relieve pressure but seals closed to maintain available vacuum. Here is the primary PCVV mounted in-line near the carby vacuum port. I turned the PCVV adaptor on the lathe and used O-rings and a lip to seal and lock it into place. The 3/8" connector is 3/8" tubing flared on both ends for retention. I purchased the elbow from the "Help section" at autozone. I cut it and turned the legs to make a "U"

I needed an adaptor and drain for my lower radiator hose. One side is 1.25" and the other is 1.75". I left a center flange to drill and tap for 1/4NPT for a lower drain. I could also use this for a temp sender if need be... or I can drill 2 holes and tap the other 1/8NPT for the sender and a drain together. I started with 2"dia. 6061-T6 round stock. I cut off a suitable piece with the carbide chop saw. It took me an hour at least to get this thing worked down to size, inside and out on both ends. ...

I know that many of you will never run into any issues or need to safety wire your brake parts. Some of us track our cars regularly and put the parts under stress that will never be encountered on the street or occasional autocross. I chose to safety wire all of the rotor bolts on all 4 rotors for my Arizona Z Car brake system. I also wired all of the caliper mounting bolts and most of the suspension mounting hardware on my track car. Pegasus racing supplies http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ sells a few different kits to drill bolts, nuts, and shanks. They also carry the wire and various twisting pliers to get the job done quickly. I used a drill press and a centering bit to drill all of the fasteners for my brake system. It is relatively easy to do with a V-Block and the right bits in a drill press. There are a few steps to help you get it right and make the job as neat as possible. I chose to do the following... First I torqued all of the harware to spec. according to fastener size. Then I marked the same side of all the bolts going around the rotor. second, I removed the bolts individually and mounted them in the V-block and used a stubby bit to start a hole/chamfer. I switched to a hand drill and mounted the bolt in a vise and drilled through by hand. Once you have a perfectly centered chamfer then you can easily hand drill through to the other side. Once the hole is through then I used the same stubby bit to chamfer the other side. I then retorqued all the fasteners and started running the wire. I used google to quickly find the correct pattern and method for winding the stainless wire. I used a hand-drill chuck to twist the wire.. but the correct twisting-pliers would have been much neater and quicker.

Nice dremel work JT. Most of the "machined" chokes I have seen pics of are not that nice, I see that there is a lot of meat to work on around there. You have a large(~.5") radius that I did not think was possible on these castings. I half expect to find voids filled with slag. I put a new 8.0 in the rebuild. I have power valves, 6.5, 8.0, and used8.5. If you think the SBC 327 with 461^^ heads and 3.54diff would demand lower PV opening then I will stick the 6.5 in there to start with. The little PV cup was home made. I might make one when I stick the lower PV in there. It is probably press fit into the boss/flange.

For once I will listen to JT1 and keep it simple to start with. I did find a picture of the power valve inlet mod I was talking about. ...

My carby has definitely been on fire in it's life. There is no evidence of melting or sagging, but there were bits of melted plastic stuck inside the primary bores. It has quite a bit of exterior corrosion where the melted plastic stuck to it. The interior is clean and pristine, but previous owners have made their marks. This is a Holley #4777-2, 650CFM, 4150 double pumper with mechanical secondaries and manual choke. The main jets are #67, secondary jets are #76 and the power valve is 8.5"hg, The inlet needles were oversize .110s. The floats are BRASS and there were no inlet screens or sintered filters installed. The metering plates are original. They are revision-2 with vent whistles(very nice to prevent fuel spillover). The PO has added small V-shaped wires in the idle feed restrictions to lean out idle. The PO also drilled the primary-idle air-bleeds in the main body to further lean out idle. I noticed the idle mixture screws were open a little more than usual(opened 2.25 turns). I rebuilt the carby per standard instructions. I filed a few high spots on the main body. The power valve pocket had flash on one side that stuck up more than 0.010" but the surfaces were not warped(I was concerned due to the fire evidence). I installed standard 090 inlet needles, original jets, 8.0"hg power valve, 30cc pump diaphrams, and original squirters. I set the primary and secondary idle opening, I set the accel pump clearances at WOT and checked the clearances(or lack thereof) at idle opening. My only modification was to remove the choke tower with a band saw and file(for aircleaner clearance). ...

I finished rebuilding the double pumper.... pics to follow. Ya know what...? Holley Carbys are feaking simple compared to the rest of the stuff I have worked with. They are also pretty rough castings that look like they came from the 19th century. This reminds me of my years as a kid building radio controlled airplanes. I had a few American made "K&B" engines that were pretty much the standard for everyone. The castings were rough, It was hard to find very many exterior machined surfaces. There were very few ball bearings or seals, they just worked ok for a season and then needed rebuilding or replacement. I was handed down a lot of worn out "K&B" engines from the older club members, this was the beginning of my "engine rebuilding" years. I distinctly recall the day I purchased my first brand-new, Japanese "O.S." engine. That was a thing of beauty. Nearly every surface was machined, and the cast surfaces were amazingly smooth. There was no casting flash anywhere to be found. overall design was similar to the American "K&B" engines, but the execution was like artwork. The cost was slightly higher(~5%), but the performance was FANTASTIC. The little OS engines would double or triple the life-span of the K&B engines. Now back to the Holley 4777-2 carby. This reminds me of the crappy K&B engines I started with. Dirty, rough, flashing and rough surfaces abound. The master molds have been used far longer than they were ever intended. Many details have been lost or smeared out of the castings, and evidence of mold and master repairs abound. What a piece of crap!!!! Who the hell casts machine parts in ZINC for god's sake. If I didn't know better I would assume this thing was 200 years old.

Look inside your lug holes. The 4 lug mounting holes are stepped. There are many ways to step the mounting holes but that is your problem in machining the wheels. You can't remove any of the step that the lug nuts use to hold the wheel on with.

About the exhaust tip...... I had a slip on tip on one of my Zs. It was a "universal" fit with little clamps. The problem was, It overlapped the actual tail pipe enough that it allowed exhaust to get around it and under the rear deck of the car. Simply removing the tip made the difference between suffocation and life.

That looks nice. How heavy was the center section of your IMSA rear spoiler? Mine is freaking HEAVY! I am completely reworking the edges for better fit and gap closure.

A single sheet of unknown weave and weight.... You ain't gonna get anything useful out of that unless you make something really small. A body panel like a hood will have 5 layers with a thick filler/core layer in the middle. The benefit of CF is light weight. The problem achieving that light weight is in the resin content. Hand layup will leave you with 10 times as much resin in the part as Vacuum molding will achieve. The other cirtical problem with hand layup is that POLYESTER will not cure completely in thin layers, if it is exposed to AIR. You need to use EPOXY resin for AIR exposed hand layups. A single layer of CF or Glass is not useful for making a part. You typically need 3 layers of light/medium weight composite to make even the flimsiest parts. The final thickness achieved with vacuum layup is a few thousandths of an inch per layer. Hand layup is considerably thicker but is mostly brittle glue. Your best bet is to use the stuff to cosmetically OVERLAY some preformed part you have on hand.

Hoov100 brings up an interesting point. If he can slosh fuel out of the bowls then my road race car will certainly do it. It's stuff like that I want to avoid and some here seem to never notice it.