johnc

Wilwoods are out if you're planning on building something close to a 1970s CP car. You should get the rule book for whichever vintage group you plan to race with and make sure you're not modifying the car beyond what's allowed. You can also buy the original CP rule books from SCCA.

I've seen my share of failed L6 engines and I've never seen one caused by a rod failure. Generally its a failed piston pin or spun rod bearing that leads to a rod sticking out the side of a L6 block. All of those issues are problems with machining or assembly.

Within piston speed limits you're correct. The highest piston speed I'm aware of is 38 m/s for a mid-90s Japanese CART engine that would run for two hours between 9,800 and 10,000 rpm. I'm sure there are higher numbers but that's the only number I'm aware of from direct discussion with the engine builder. Some of the CART privateers were rumored to be in the 48 m/s range (supposed 94mm stroke at 9,800 rpm).

Why not cut the hood to fit the late 280Z style hood vents?

You really need to carefully read the LSD sticky.

The ring gear and pinion gear are considered a matched set. Although you can physically swap pinion gears you will most likely wear down the gears very quickly.

I un-deleted it and moved it into the Tool Shed. Its closed but you should be able to view it.

Remember the de Havilland Comet?

I just closed it and put it in the Tool Shed.

I deleted it. It turned into a pissing match.

4 x 4.5" bolt pattern, 17 x 8.5 with a 5" backspace. Need 4. The lighter the better.

Then you have what racers call "A Dead Butt."

All you have to do is redrill the holes in the firewall and weld on a plate.

A properly built roll cage can store a lot of compressed gas.

I thought Hella Flush was what Al Bundy was looking for when he bought a Ferguson.

Not really. You get the same amount of boost assistance and pressure applied to the MC (the equal and opposite reaction thing). What you can change with the reaction disc is pedal feel, travel, and the rate of pressure application.

The reaction disc acts like a bump stop in the suspension. You should be able to experiment with various durometers of rubber and/or urethane to get the feel you want. You can also glue two different durometers of material together to give a soft initial touch and then a harder touch as more pressure is applied.

Shock's bad. A loose gland nut will allow the upper seal to distort and fail. The gas pressure leaked out and you're probably leaking some shock oil.

The FSM is always good. Search for the download links.

The 5020 rear spring is 165 lb. in. The 5022 front spring is 185 lb. in. The 5022 rear spring is 200 lb. in. Front and rear spring diameters are different in the S30. The difference is small enough that it should not be an issue in your application. Without adjustable lower spring perches sectioning the struts won't help your bump travel issue unless you section them above the stock spring perch. Running without bump stops will quickly destroy your shocks even with spring coil bind. The foot valve gets hammered. I fixed this problem on probably half-a-dozen 240Zs in my shop. Your final solution might work out but we won't know until you pick your rear springs. If you're going with an all Tokico solution the 165 lb. in front springs and 200 lb rear springs give a 21% difference in rate front to rear which is outside the nromal range for performace or for what Nissan originally designed. Also, your interim plans will most likely cause more harm. And parts for your car are a phone call and some shipping fees away. As always, its your car and you can do with it as you please. Here on HybridZ you'll get lots of opinions with the general focus on increasing the performance of these cars.

Why don't you listen to what people are posting here as advice instead of developing your own hillbilly solution?

No such thing as hub centric for the 240Z. They are designed as lug centric and the hub center bore (front and rear) varied through the years.

Its fine.

You should spend the next few days searching and reading. All of this information has been posted here during the last 10 years by hundreds of members who have already done what you're trying to do. Its all here free for the reading.

Replace the Tokico 5020 springs with their 280Z 5022 springs or the Eibach Pro Kit springs. Here's a write covering the 5022 spring install: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ You will need to be running at least the Tokico HP shocks. Illuminas are better for your application. The Eibach springs will be a little softer then the 5022s while the 5022s will give better handling.