johnc

MIG WELDER - A powerful electric tool used to burn holes in sheet metal and create metal sculptures that resemble porcupines. Also good at using up vast amounts of expensive metal wire and inert gasses. TIG WELDER - A mystical, magical tool used to make very beautiful and expensive metal objects that have no practical use. Turns people who use this tool into Prima Donnas who heap scorn on those who us other forms of welding. PLASMA CUTTER - A tool that uses the 4th form of matter to burn large holes in everything exactly where you don't want them. It also magically stops working at random times. A more effective fire started then a OxyAcetyline torch because it can ignite certain metals that cannot be extinguished. TUBE BENDER - Powerful and effective tool for bending pipe and tubing into shapes that almost but not quite fit the original template or plan. Very ineffective at making a second try at a bend after just missing the correct angle. Does not work as an un-bender.

So there's a minimum of $5,000 worth of design and fabrication work to get to the point where you can start buying and installing all those Sube' aftermarket parts. And you won't be any quicker around a race track with your Sube30 in comparison to properly setup S30 with its OEM style suspension. If its a project your want to do for fun and to learn something, go for it. Just don't figure your Sube30 will handle any better the a regular S30.

Yes although you might need the M51 x 1.5p gland nuts and a different length rear spacer for the shocks. The Eibach springs might be a little soft for the 260Z.

Download the FSM and read how to adjust the rear brakes.

No. The closer the better (fore and aft direction) to keep the roof structure from collapsing on your head.

Some notes on caster: Caster does not directly cause the steering self-centering that many people attribute to it. That self-centering comes from Geometric Trail which is the distance from where the steering axis hits the pavement and where the vertical wheel center line hits the pavement. Radial tires also have something called Pneumatic Trail where the lateral forces on the tire focus on a point behind the nominal center of the contact patch. That point varies with speed and the forces involved but its generally about 25mm behind the nominal contact patch center. Pneumatic Trail increases self-centering. The cater jacking effect when turning the wheels increased the load on the inside rear wheel in a corner. Positive caster increases a car's resistance to side winds and increases high speed stability. Modern performance cars come with large amounts of positive caster from the factory. My 350Z has +9. My 1986 Mercedes Benz 420SEL had +11. I raced the ROD with anywhere from +6 to +8 positive depending on the track and tire width.

Keep in mind that a stock Z shell generates lift. That takes energy. By reducing lift you're freeing up energy. If you can reduce the lift with very little drag increase then the car can go faster.

I see this all the time when prepping a race car and there's a hard delivery date. In those situations I tell the customer to have the part overnighted even if we have a few days or weeks cushion. Those that do, get the cars done on time. Those that don't, often miss the race. Parts logistics will screw you up every time. You're dealing with a 3rd party that has no interest in your deadlines and has not agreed to meet them. I'm dealing with this right now because a customer wants to save a 20% restocking fee ($21.45 total) on a part exchange while I'm getting his car ready for a track event this weekend. He will not get the car this Friday because of this, as I explained last Friday. He will most likely have to make a 3.5 hour round trip drive tomorrow to put the part in my hand.

No camber plate kit should rattle or clunk. The biscuit style camber plates (EMI Racing or the ones MSA sells - DP Racing) can have a 1/8" layer of urethane sheet put between the top of the camber plate and the underside of the strut tower to add some noise isolation.

There's no rule regarding "tilt". The top of the main hoop must be within 6" of the driver's helmet when the driver is seated and belted in place. EDIT: Just reviewed Section 9.4 again and there is no rule specifying tilt or how close the main hoop shop should be to the driver's head. That was part of the old roll cage construction rules.

http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2010-09/hu-mad090210.php

On a semi-trialing arm rear suspension you can get wheel hop under braking and, rarely, wheel hop under acceleration due to the amount of anti-dive in the trailing arm geometry. Increasing compression damping on your shocks will help reduce wheel hop. You can also slot the rear crossmember allowing some adjustment of the trailing arms. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_crossmember_slotting.html

Its designed to be a tight press fit. Yes you need to tap or pres sit it.

Why focus on a psi number? I just don't understand turbo guys focusing on a specific psi. Tune the engine and the boost pressure together to get the most performance while keeping the engine out of detonation. It doesn't matter if the boost psi number is 10 or 20, your engine will perform the best at some combination of tune and boost pressure. Turing the boost up or down from that optimal setting to achieve some Internet Approved number is foolish. Tune the frickin' engine!

Somewhat common on the S30 where the rules allow it. There's also a cheater way to achieve the same thing in the same area on the car without the obvious tube. But that would be against the rules... BTW... OEMs generally don't brace this area in the way pictured (or typically done on the s30) because they want the front clip to deform a certain amount in a frontal impact. Adding this brace reduces (by some unknown amount) the crumple zone or increases the force needed to achieve the designed in deformation.

Its called Tony.

Check the pulley ratios and make sure you're not spinning the pump too fast. You'll need to measure the stock Subaru pulleys first unless you can find that number somewhere on the internet.

No difference in alignment numbers for diameter (except for ride height). There is a difference depending on tire width and if you check the alignment sticky its mentioned.

I think that's more the Sawzall of Death.

The braces are called... braces. All are custom made out of DOM tubing that look to be from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" OD. Don't know about the wall thinness (my ex-ray vision is weak in the morning). And they look like they should be installed exactly where they are installed.

That's my usual solution but this car is too nice for the Sawzall - although I did use it on the rusty exhaust pipe.

Nissan really screwed up with the seat mounting on the 240Z. Jeez, what a pain! Why did they design these little pockets of dirt, debris, rust, loose change, old food, chewed gum, dead bugs, and sharp edges as a place to bolt the back of the seat? Did Hoji in the Seat Mounting Design Prefecture Department really think he had a good idea? Did his design boss even look at the drawing of the horrible, hand cramping blind spots or was he stupid drunk on Sake when the papers crossed his desk? Jeez what pain!

Tony, next time you're at the shop drop off that distributor. John Benton (http://www.bentonperformance.com) across the alley has SUN distributor machine and knows how to use it. We can map the curve.

SAE grade 8 is DIN/ISO class 10.9.

My old one came a week or two after I received my new passport.