johnc

You're running a staggered tire setup and you're wondering why you have a push? It sounds like the car is behaving exactly as it should based on your wheel and tire selection.

Well, yes it does: 1. Collapsible steering column. 2. Reinforced door bars and door jams (280Z). 3. Controlled crush zones front and rear. 4. Padded safety dash. 5. Padded steering wheel. 6. Safety glass. 7. Rollover anti-spill fuel tank. 8. Dual brake circuits. 9. DOT side market lighting. 10. 5 mph bumpbers (280Z). 11. Engine and trans designed to move down in a head on impact. 12. Lap and shoulder harness (intertial reel in the 280Z). 13. Reinforced seat backs. 14. Anti-whiplash head rests. 15. Seat mounts designed to move inwards in a side impact (280Z). 16. High strength steel in the roof structure (280Z). And that's just items off the top of my head that are in the S30 and modern cars.

You can vent to atmosphere. Use a clear plastic gasoline resistant line and loop it on top of the fuel cell and then drop it down at the back of the car in the right rear corner. When you fill the car watch the vent line to make sure you don't overfill and put a small can or bucket under the vent line outlet so you don't spill on the ground. Any fuel spill will get you a reprimand at any race track in the country.

No, at least as far as SCCA is concerned.

I think all the can be said, has been said.

I won't set me back anything Go to the web site and check under Products > Body Composites. BTW... here's the original build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/47733-280zx-composite-hoods/

I won't be telling you that. Nice Tony. Go back in the cabin.

Maybe live a few years longer.

http://www.practicalchemistry.org/experiments/27-july-07-reactions-of-chlorine-bromine-and-iodine-with-aluminium,120,EX.html

I've used the non-clorinated stuff on aluminum without any problems. I generally use Acetone or Wurth's multi-purpose solvent for hand parts cleaning and mineral spirits for parts soaking.

I only make hoods right now. No plans for any other products until there's a market.

I got my start in this business by doing TIG welding for SP Tools. They supplied Snap-On with all of their specialty automotive hand tools (bearing pullers, special brake tools, belt tensioners, etc.) and I did almost all of their welding - at an effective rate of $20 per hour. 10 hours a day, 6 days a week. If you bought any Snap-On specialty automotive tool from 2001 through 2003 I welded it. I knew the owners of SP Tools personally for years before that and had raced with and against them at tracks all over the west coast. Mark and Paul are great people and are very proud of their business and this country. Starting in 2003 they kept getting price pressure from Snap-on due to lower cost import products being sold by Miller Tools and others. In the professional tool market, mechanics are like any other consumer - they shop price first and Snap-On was getting killed in the market. Eventually, even at $20 per hour, I was too expensive and SP Tools had to start outsourcing production overseas and stopped sending business my way. No one at Snap-On, SP Tools, or BetaMotorsports wanted to do this. It was driven completely by the consumer - the professional mechanic. The quality of the tools SP Tools gets from overseas are pretty much equal to what they were producing here. They carry the same warranty and warranty costs are equal or less then they were when the parts were made here. This is neither a good or bad thing, its just the way things are. I moved on and focused on motorsports fabrication (which is what I wanted to do anyway). Adapt or die as the saying goes.

HybridZ is about performance, not how the fender gap looks.

If you don't already have the wheels I suggest running 15 x7 all around with 225/50-15s. If you have the rims, again just install 215/50-15s in front a 225/50-15s in back. The Bfg GForce Sport is a good street tire and it comes in those sizes.

Are you posting press releases?

The R200 in the 350Z has a unique mounting setup. Its different from the other short nose R200s. You'll also have to work out the side shaft. Spline counts are the same (29) but the lengths of the shafts are different side to side and different from other R200 CV setups. You'll also have to swap the pinion flange.

Look here: http://www.atlinc.com/2010_Race_Catalog/page13.html And here's why this is an area where you shouldn't scrimp: http://www.atlinc.com/racing.html

I can speak to the SCCA rules regarding a fuel cell: Basically any non-stock fuel container run on a race track with SCCA must have a FIA FT-3 certification. Those cells listed on the Jegs site might meet those requirements but the manufacturers have not submitted them for certification with the FIA or SCCA. That would be your responsibility if you wanted to run them with SCCA. NASA has similar rules.

I shoulda caught the math, I used to be good at it.

And again: http://frank4carsfrank.blogspot.com/2010/11/daryl-alison-pleads-guilty-to-illegal.html

You're thinking about it wrong. Its not the play in the holes in the wheel, its how the studs will be bent inward by some amount when everything is tightened down. You're asking for stub failure by putting a shear load on the studs.

Tire compound is generally more important then tread width. A 215 BFG Drag Radial will launch harder then a 335 width Sears Roadhandler.

Regarding the comments on searching and posting basic mechanical questions... HybridZ is not a Cars 101 beginner site. This place was started before this century to help other S30 aficionados with extreme performance modifications. We're still trying hard to keep the site an advanced performance site. Basic automotive repair (bushing replacement, ball joint replacement, etc.) has been discussed here in the last 10+ years so please search.

An perfect 2.5" straight pipe can flow very well. A typical 2.5" exhaust system flows more like a 2" straight pipe. Crush bends, poor welds with drop through, muffler shop "Y" pipes, etc. all conspire to reduce the theoretical 2.5" flow to something around a theoretical 2" pipe, or worse.