johnc

E85.

Seam welding repeatedly proves its worth with Rally cars. On pre-1973 S30s its worth another 50 lb. in. in spring rate in the front of the car with no other reinforcements. It also help to seam weld the radiator core support if for no other reason then to keep from tearing your aluminum radiator apart. Again, its of less value on 1973 and later S30s but I have customers that run the vintage Safari Rally and all of their S30 cars are seam welded. It helps make the chassis last more then just a few seasons.

Please remember that loads into the chassis from the suspension are far greater then loads into the chassis from engine torque. A 125hp 240Z that road races on 8" wide slicks will see a lot of benefit from seam welding. A 500hp 240Z that drives on the street with 240 treadwear tires will see much less benefit from seam welding.

A LSD is the single best handling improvement you can make to a S30.

That's a strut brace, not a sway bar.

Having had a 325hp NA 3L built, I think you're 250hp crank horsepower expectation is reasonable. Your engine builder's plans are probably not. The main issue you will have is fuel quality and your requirement to use the stock intake manifold. As stated above, since you're going to all this expense you might as well inspect/clean/replace all the components in the engine compartment and definitely replace/upgrade all the engine ancillary components.

I guess you guys missed this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/

The market for this engine has always been tiny. I think they originally only made 7 total. There are a few people on this planet with the financial wherewithal and emotional attachment to the Z and its history that might buy a new one. OSG has always been ready and willing to service that rarefied market. Right now, OSG makes (IMHO) the best limited slip diff in the world and most folks here think its way too expensive. Nothing has changed in 40 years. OSG is not interested in compromising their quality and standards to sell in volume.

OS Giken has always been ready, willing, and able to build the TC24-B1 engine for anyone that had money. Contrary to popular belief, its not just a cylinder head. The whole package includes a modified block, front timing chain setup, headers, and intake manifold. It has always been available for those that have the money and desire. These rumors are nothing new. FYI... they also have a TC16-MA2 four cylinder engine if you're interested.

That's just silly.

Has anyone thought of the dollar/yen exchange rate? Think that might have something to do with it?

Duplicate.

That's fine. Also focus on the seams around the TC rod mount and if you can get inside the cowl weld the seams in there.

Congratulations!

The issues you mention above are typical for any car (Nissan, Chevy, BMW, etc.) that's getting close to 30 years old. The 280ZX is not temperamental at all and is generally far more reliable then anything else build in the 1980s as long as basic maintenance is performed per the factory service manual. Normal wear items (plugs, wires, filters, fluids) need to be inspected and changed regularly. The basic engine will easily go 250,000 miles with proper care. I suggest that you do the following before considering an overhaul: 1. Download the factory service manual. 2. Properly adjust the valves (of your particular engine requires it). 3. Perform a compression test and/or a leak down test to determine the basic condition of the engine. 4. Perform a complete test of the fuel injection and ignition systems per the FSM to make sure its up to specs. 5. Perform all the maintenance items appropriate for the mileage on your car.

Sometimes you can see where the pin turned blue due to heat. That's a big indicator that it seized.

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Piston pin most likely seized on the rod small end or in the piston. Inspect it carefully. The damage in the pictures is typical for that kind of failure and an undamaged rod big end and undamaged crank also points in that direction. A hyrolock at speed is rare - the coolant generally vaporizes too quickly to fill the combustion chamber and the coolant can just as easily be pushed back out the hole it came in.

Manila room service call: Room Service: Morny, rune sor-bees. Hotel Guest: Oh sorry, I thought I dialed room service. RS: Rye, rune sore-bees. Morny. Jewish to ordor sunteen? HG: I'd like some bacon and eggs. RS: Ow July then? HG: What? RS: Aches. Ow July then? Pry, boy, pooch..? HG: Oh, the eggs! How do I like them? Sorry, Scrambled please. RS: Ow July thee Baycome? Crease? HG: Crisp will be fine. RS: Okay. An Santos? HG: Ugh.....I don't know....I don't think so. RS: No? Judo one toes? HG: Look, I really feel bad about this, but I just don't know what judo- one toes means, I'm sorry. RS: Toes! Toes! Why Jew Don Juan toes? Ow bow eengligh mopping we bother? HG: English Muffin! I've got it! Toast! You were saying toast! Fine. An English Muffin will be fine. RS: We Bother? HG: No, just put the bother on the side. RS: Wad? HG: I'm sorry. I meant butter. Butter on the side. RS: Copy? HG: I feel terrible about this, but .... RS: Copy. Copy, tea, mill. HG: Coffee! Yes coffee please. And that's all. RS: One minnie. Ass rune torino-fie, strangle aches, crease Baycome, tossy eengligh mopping we bother honey sight, and copy. Rye? HG: Whatever you say. RS: Okay, Tenjewberrymud. HG: You're welcome.

Inside lengths of the strut tube using a tape measure: 240Z Front - 15.125" 240Z Rear - 16.750" 280Z Front - 14.750" 280Z Rear - 18.000"

8610-1437RACE or 8611-1259RACE.

Who built the engine?

Brake pressure switch below the MC on either the front fender or the firewall. Its got a shuttle valve inside that moves to close off the circuit (front or rear) that has the lowest pressure when a pressure differential of about 200 psi exists. You must gravity bleed the entire brake circuit before staring any brake bleeding.