johnc

...sitting down with some popcorn to watch...

For those that have trouble understanding steering scrub, here's an easy visual aid.

If anything its worth $25 as scrap with all the copper inside.

Me. Check the link below.

Check the pickup to be sure it does not have an air leak somewhere and make sure the pickup is 1/2" off the bottom of the pan and isn't sucking down into the pan.

I can also call the engineer that ran the Electramotive dynos back then or the fabricator who built the suspension uprights for the GTP cars.

Unless your previous owner mounted some tubing under the floor pan and the seats bolt through that tubing, just bolting the seat flat to the floor pan is unsafe. Hopefully there's some structure (other then the floor pan and factory longitudinal pan support) that we can't see in the picture.

I think the controller you mention is wired into the cab of the truck and allows you to adjust the brake force and ramp up rate. This is the one I use on the truck: https://www.southwestwheel.com/store/showproduct.aspx?ProductID=4752&SEName=tekonsha-voyager

They are Class 10.9 M12 x 1.25p bolts with the front one having a 35mm grip length and the rear one a 30mm grip length.

I didn't notice the little red squiggly.

Whether is does or not you need a bearing on both front struts. You should also clean those bearings and a regrease them every time you replace the struts.

Bam! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95870-ca18et-swap-into-78-s30-280z

Roll Center is an imaginary thing that helps people understand the forces involved and how those forced affect the car through the suspension components. Being an imaginary thing people use their imaginations to visualize what's happening and suspension modeling software helps that visualization. Mark alludes to some changes in thinking regarding roll canters (away from the traditional kinematic method) and more towards a focus the reaction (sprung and unsprung) vectors as a result of load transfer. This is called the "lateral-anti method." Mark has a video discussing this and you can contact him at: markortizauto@windstream.net to get a copy of the video.

There's always Stahl headers.

Happy Birthday. Go easy with the candles on the cake. Don't want to burn the house down.

Simple point... A Spindle Pin being removed will give a Z person far more crap then any poster on this site.

I'm with Tony and the others regarding a small/mid-sized pickup. Here's what I want for the new shop truck: Extended cab pickup with an 8' bed. 2WD auto trans. 5,000 lb. towing capacity. 4 cylinder turbo diesel engine. That kind of vehicle doesn't exist here but can be found everywhere else including the north pole and Antarctica. WTF?

If you're not going to shorten the struts and are not looking for more then about 1" of drop, then OEM is fine. Keep in mind the car doesn't care where the spring rate comes from (2.5" ID coil over springs or 4.5" OEM style springs). Unless you're going with spring rates over 200 lb. in. the Tokicos provide all the rate you need for a street driven car. Adding adjustability with threaded collars, adjustable lower spring perches, and cambers plates is wasted money unless you intend to adjust things. If you're the "set it and forget it" kind of alignment/suspension guy, then coil overs are a waste of money.

IMHO, HybridZ is an advanced automotive forum. We're not Cars 101 and we're not a social networking site. A new member must come here with a good understanding of automobiles and mechanics which he/she can get from any number of other sites. If they don't have that base, then they should NOT post and just read, read, read. We have a New Member forum where people can introduce themselves and get a welcome of some kind. After that, you better start paying attention and thinking before you post. I don't care if we have 500 or 5,000 members. If someone gets their feelings hurt or doesn't feel welcome, tough luck. Life ain't fair and you need to toughen up to be able to deal with it.

From the latest Mark Ortiz newsletter:

Take of the big aero items first. Wheel well work is an incremental item. Get as much downforce in front and back as possible. 1. A front undertray with diffusers dumping to the front wheel wells. 2. Flat bottom the car including an engine pan and something to cover the rear diff and lead into a rear diffuser. 3. A rear diffuser that starts to open up immediately behind the diff. A custom fuel cell can with a 14 degree up angle works well. Cut out the rear valance. Add vertical strakes. Move the muffler forward or up to get it out of the way of the diffuser. 4. Move the wing off the back of the car so it can work as a pump for the diffuser. These kinds of mods are where the big aero gains come from.

The look vaguely like Western Wheel Turbines, but appear to have more spokes.

Aluminum fittings are fine.

The wheels pictured above weight 55 and 56 lbs with tires on them. The wheels themselves weigh 30 and 31 lbs each. I weighed them off my 2006 350Z and was astonished at how heavy they were.