johnc

Put some Vaseline around the outside of the rubber strip and have a buddy push hard no the 1/4 window while you start the four screws on the inside.

There is no best. You'll use different jack points at different times when working on the car.

1. Center 10" on the front crossmember. 2. The front subframe rails where the TC rods mount. 3. Rear seat belt mount cups. 4. Rear subframe rails where the lateral and longitudinal members meet outside of the front diff crossmember. 5. Pinch weld points at the front and rear of the rocker panel, but use a 4 x 4 with a1/4" wide by 1" deep slot cut in it as recommended above.

For the ducting running along the inner fender just use thin wall 2.5" exhaust tubing strapped to the inner fender. Crimp bends are fine so lay out the route and have a muffler shop bend it. Wire ties with the little screw eyelets will hold it onto the inner fender liner just fine.

FYI... the Stig is not just one driver. Top Gear most likely has a few pro drivers it can use when they need the Stig.

Me being ridiculous in so many ways:

Search this site for links to the factory service manual. You'll want to get one for a European spec car. I have the FSM for a 1972 model and they only provide the weight at 1,043 kg for the HLS30Q European LHD model. It doesn't list axle weights or gross weight.

When I had Sunbelt build my racing NA 3L L6 the dyno testing showed the engine made the most horsepower and torque with the coolant temps at 200 to 205 degrees and the oil temps at 220 to 230 degrees. YMMV but what they saw on my engine was similar to what they saw on the racing BMW M50 engines they built for World Challenge Touring. I ran a 190 degree thermostat, a 32 psi radiator cap, and a oil/coolant heat exchanger to keep both liquids near the temps lsited above.

That had me laughing for a couple minutes. The phrase above is British Car Talk Code for "yet another money pit."

Coil bind. An 8" spring needs to be over 250 lb. in. to keep from coil binding in a typical S30 application.

Holy crap! Hopefully not a repost.

You posted it in the correct forum. I initially thought it you were placing a "For Sale" ad but after I moved it and made the post above I realized that you were referring to someone else's ad.

I thought it had an overabundance of anniversary myself.

A mistaken Craiglist post regarding a Camaro.

I've seen a couple cars with them and they work very well IF there is no other unducted air coming in through the front of the car. They can get blown closed if there's another large air inlet that creates a high pressure area above the flexible duct.

So much wrong here including posting in the wrong forum. I guess I need to clean up after the boys. Please, no more arguments about anniversaries, OK?

Naaahhh, just another happy customer - so far. Keith hasn't run at a drag strip yet so no firm conclusions on the testing.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=156520

Race cars with front diffusers typically don't have a front wheel flap because the diffuser is about 1.5" off the ground. For a road car with greater ride height the front wheel flap helps. You don't want to limit the air going under the car if you're running a diffuser/splitter setup. You actually want as much air as possible and you want to accelerate and then slow down that air in specific areas to generate downforce. Splitters are typically angled up a few degrees to get more air under the car, but this only works if you're running front diffusers.

Its a good thing.

You should build a bracket that attaches to the front frame where the stock bumper attaches.

Be careful in your business dealing with Pete Brock - he learned from Carroll Shelby.

They said that about the Internet too.

We missed a big one, but it got pretty scary. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgNpDBFKpwU

I think I need this to get through all the f^&*ing holiday traffic around here.