johnc

Guys, if you turn this thread into a pissing contest between engine types I'll flat out delete it. Stop arguing about which engine is "best." The JZ, RB,and M engines are all good engines, stop this BS internet engineering masturbation!

No, except the early 240Z 4 speed (the "A" box unit) came out of a Roadster. That one is weak but you're unlikely to come across one.

Correct. You need all three studs.

The Classic:

Famous last words.

Please search the site.

For those that want the sound: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrJQ1c7lwFA

I made the above jelly using Jalapenos and its fantastic on Turkey. No more cranberry sauce for me! I gave a jar to a friend and loves it on Lamb and Pork Chops.

The basic suspension upgrades for track Zs also applies to a drag Z. You probably don't want to lower it too much but you do need good shock control and room for bigger wheels and tires.

Try putting it back in the press, put a big load on it, and then whack it with a hammer. Also, try an air hammer. At this point you need to induce a lot of vibration while there's a load on the pin to break the corrosion loose.

It would be great if you can pull this off and get a complete strut assembly for about $500 per corner. A few folks have tried (search this site) working with some of the more popular low priced shock companies but the initial order quantity was the big barrier. What I make and sell is done to order and I sell about 6 kits a year. At the $2,000 price point you'll probably sell 10 to 12 per year. The biggest issue for the manufacturer will be cores. A complete set of used struts runs about $250 and then there's the labor involved in dis-assembly, cleaning, inspection, shortening, and assembly.

Mounted mine in the glove box on a tilt out tray. You will need easy access to it while setting everything up and tuning.

Actually, I'm keeping most of that stuff for myself or for the Mr. Hankey car if it needs it.

I sell completely assembled struts.

Exactly. The other option is a Rabbit shocks (these things are SHOCKS not struts or strut inserts).

Two pinion. No Nissan R180 came to the US with a four pinion open diff or a LSD.

44s would be better for power and performance.

Probably not.

I still have: 1. The entire radiator core support (that's what you want). 2. Both front frame rails from the firewall to the core support. 3. Left, center, and right front valances. 4. Engine and trans. 5. Driveshaft, diff, halfshafts, etc. 6. Complete suspension. 7. Computer. 8. Front crossmember. 9. Steering rack. 10. Steering column. 11. Pedal box.

Who said Germans can't have fun? http://jalopnik.com/5412820/old-german-touring-cars-make-everything-better

http://electramotive.com/ Knepp, Caldwell, and Savage are all located in Vista. Funny how they kinda hang out in the same places.

Never had an issue with the truck R180s.

Unless you get that longitudinal arm mounting on the exact same axis as the inner pivots on the stock LCAs you will bind the rear suspension. That means the front mount of that longitudinal arm needs to be about 2" under your butt in the cabin of the car.

If you're talking with Knepp, Caldwell said the old Electramotive engines were for him.

You will need to assemble them, set the car on the ground, measure, and then determine if you need to cut to get the ride height you want. Yes. With the springs you've chosen there isn't much you can do about the CLSD push except to: 1) enter the corner slower and use more throttle to get the car to rotate or 2) get really good at left foot trail braking, getting the back end to come around, and then controlling it with the throttle. Camber plates with stock OD springs don't get you much negative camber. When we're talking about understeer/oversteer we're mostly talking about steady state behavior. Toe settings have more to do with transitory behavior. Less rear toe in will make the car rotate better on corner entry but make it a little more unstable under power on corner exit. With the CLSD behavior that you've alluded to those toe changes would help the car get into the corner better.