johnc

I'm not a engine machinist by any means but, from the picture, I think they can at least deburr and polish the work they did - at a bare minimum. BRAAP would know much more about this then I. If they handed that crank to me my first words would be, "When will you be finished with it?"

Holy crap!

The pic at the top is just a step in the machining process. That crank is not finished so there's nothing really to comment on.

A member here called me on this recommendation. I've had this in my head and done it a couple times for customers at my shop but I never wrote it down. Here it is: Stock 1970 through 1972 Datsun 240Z US Spring Specs Left Front: 14.750" free length, 83 lb. in. rate. Right front: 15.250" free length, 83 lb. in. rate. Rear: 14.500" free length, 104 lb. in. rate. The installed SPRING STACK HEIGHT under load (meaning installed and sitting on the ground with two 150lb. people in the seats, no fuel on board) is: Left Front - 8" @ 562 lbs. Right Front – 8” @ 604 lbs. Rear – 8.4" @ 635 lbs. Tokico Datsun 280Z HP Spring Specs Front (5022-F): 11.250” free length, 185 lb. in rate, 8 free coils. Rear (5022-R): 12" free length, 200 lb. in. rate, 9 free coils. Installation Math (using the load information from the FSM) To achieve a stock 8” installed spring stack height on the left front of the car the Tokico front spring needs to compress 3.25”. Given the 562 lb load in the example we get a 3” compression so the left front spring needs to have 1/4 coil removed to get to the 8” stock installed height (assuming a 1" drop in stack height for each coil removed). To achieve a stock 8” installed spring stack height on the right front of the car the Tokico front spring needs to compress 3.25”. Given the 604 lb load in the example we get a 3.25” compression so the right front does not need any coils removed to get to the 8” stock installed spring stack height. To achieve a stock 8.4” installed spring stack height at the rear of the car the Tokico rear springs need to compress 3.6”. Given the 635 lb load in the example we get a 3.175”compression. The rear springs need to be have 1/2 coil removed to get to the 8.4” stock spring installed installed height (assuming a .93" drop in stack height for each coil removed). Quickie math: Take the installed spring stack height measurement and divide it by the number of complete coils in the spring. That should give you a basic idea of how much additional drop in stack height you get when one complete coil is cut. Caveats All of the above is for an “idealized/perfectly original” 240Z. Your car is not! I strongly suggest you put the Tokico springs on the car, loosely assemble the top insulator to the shock and then loosely assembly the insulator and suspension in the car. When I mean loosely I don’t mean finger tight. I mean snug things up with a wrench but don’t torque to spec. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR IN THIS CONDITION. Just set the car on the ground and roll it back and forth, jump up and down on the door sills, anything non-driving to get the springs to settle. At this point check the installed spring stack height and check your ride height. Then do the math and figure how much you'll need to cut. Cutting the Springs Its best to do off the car after doing some math and checking against the figures above. As far as cutting is concerned, it doesn't matter whether you cut from the top or the bottom of the spring. If you want to try it on the car, you might be able to: 1. Jack up one end of the car so the suspension hangs free. Put the car on strong and secure jackstands. Don’t be a dumbshit, do this safely. 2. The Tokico spring will be loose and you should be able to pull it out at the bottom enough to get a cutoff wheel or hacksaw in there to make the cut. You'll want to cut at the bottom on the rears to make sure you don't nick the shock shaft if you screw up while cutting at the top. Its better to cut the fronts at the top so wrap the shock shaft to protect it from sparks and any clumsiness you're born with. 3. You don't have to make a perfectly perpendicular cut on the spring. Remember, its made from spring steel so its very hard and will take some time with a hacksaw. Buy extra blades. With a cutoff wheel buy some extra wheels. Don't use heat (torch or plasma cutter). Once you have the ride height where you want it be sure to properly assemble the suspension and torque everything to spec. Again, don't be a dumbshit. Do this right, check your work, and be careful.

Regardless of the "theory" behind the success of the odd fire race bike engines, you can't argue with the lap time improvements.

It sounds nice, especially at Cal Speedway with the exhaust echoing off the empty front straight grandstands.

A 3 big bang L6.... just need a custom cam, a good ATI balancer, and computer controlled injection and ignition.... Tony!

How the hell can they do that?

Let's see, stated weight of the car on Uncle Joe's page is: 2,760. Actual weight with driver as it went over the scales: ?????

I know for sure they are identical for the R180 and R200s side shafts that were used in the S30s. M10 x 1.25p 21mm grip length 10.45mm shoulder OD 16mm OD "D" shaped head

FYI... new bolts for these side shafts are NLA from Nissan. I've been working for two months with Courtesy Nissan and Nissan Motorsports and they are just not available. If you buy a set of these side shafts you will have to source the bolts yourself. They can be easily tapped out of any R160, R180, or R200 side shaft.

This whole thread is like watching a monkey f_&% a football. Does it really take this much tinkering to get these brand new diffs to work?

As long as he can get greased packed into the bearings, they should be fine.

They should be able to press them out without damaging anything.

Its called a Valance as you posted above. Left front valance.

Most everyone here has posted something in error regarding harness installation. Please read: http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/Rallye-Instructions.pdf http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf http://www.schrothracing.com/main/Media

Most everyone here has posted something in error regarding harness installation. Please read: http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/Rallye-Instructions.pdf http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf

You said you were on a budget... The HPs will be at their upper limit at those spring rates but it will be OK for a while. Illuminas would be better. The EMI camber plates are not machined for the shock, the shock is machined for the camber plates. The monoball is .625" ID which works fine for most shock except for the Datsun specific BZ and HZ shocks. Those need the upper mounting point on the shaft machined down to .624.

I was over at the tech trailer all weekend.

Gabriel Hi-Jacker air shocks:

My old engine was a 3L at 13.6 to 1 CR spun to 7,500 got 325hp - granted it was built more as a torque motor. 2.4L engines built the GT2 specs typically made up to 350hp at 8,000+rpm on carbs back in the 1980s and 1990s. The Frissell car ran a L20 crank in a 2.8 block and regularly ran over 9,000 rpm and was rumored to make almost 360 hp.

I did a quick check of this forum and I didn't see any posts regarding this car. Its a 6L LS2 powered Z32 that runs SCCA ITE. I see it and talk with Joe every weekend I'm out doing tech at the Cal Club SCCA races. http://unclejoe.com/racing/300zx.htm

From my experience your little program is high by 25%.

Full disclosure - I sell Tokico stuff. I suggest the following low buck option that will get you a reasonable suspension for autocross work and that you can upgrade later without having to start over: Coil over threaded collars Adjustable lower spring perches Upper spring perches (to work with your stock insulators) Tokico HP shocks (HZ3099 front, HZ3015 rear) Hypercoil 10 x 2.5 springs (250F 225R) Shorten the struts and install all of the above. You can check my web site for prices or shop around. Later you'll only have to swap out the shocks and springs when you can afford the Konis. You'll also need to get some camber plates.

There you go again, limiting your thinking. Forget pump gas.