johnc

You don't even need the struts. A long length of 1" threaded pipe with another short length welded perpendicular to first will work as the strut. Use all-thread for the spindle pin through the LCA and the short length of the pipe section you've made. Make a plate with a 1.5" hole in the center and slip it over the top of the long length of pipe as it protrudes through the stut tower center hole. Screw on a pipe end cap to the long length of pipe.

$200 every time the car rolls 360 degrees. $100 for each impact if the car doesn't roll.

And the 350hp NA GT2 engines are typically 2.4L that are spun over 8,500 rpm. I guess you could spin a 3.1L that high but I don't know of one that's done it regularly.

Cheater ITS engine?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-inserts/=2dd04s

It worked! http://jalopnik.com/5294314/a-dive-off-a-300+foot-cliff-from-the-drivers-point-of-view

So, ATF will work better the something designed for cleaning fuel injectors? Stop listening to old farts who reminisce about how well their '37 Dodge ran.

This thread is not going well. Based on past experience I'm thinking its time to 'Shed it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149824

Keeps the sun out of his eyes going down the front straight in the late afternoon.

Talked with the owner of one. Those classic style bumper cars sell for $5K to $15K each used and they need work. Add in the cost of the motorcycle engine, chassis, wheels/tires, paint, upholstery, fabrication, etc. and you're easily in the $50K range. And there's a waiting to list get a new one.

One can be yours for $50K.

1. Press the outer bearing onto the side shaft. 2. Press or lightly hammer the side axle with the outer bearing in the hub. 3. Drop the distance piece (spacer) in place. 4. Place and light tap (with a brass drift) the inner bearing in place. 5. Bolt on the companion flange and torque to 195 ft. lb. 6. Measure shaft end place and turning torque. 7. If in spec, remove the companion flange, install the seal, bolt on the companion flange and torque to spec. 8. If too much end play, remove the companion flange and add in the the copper washer. Go back to 5. If still too much end place, increase torque to 200 ft. lb. and go to 7. 9. If too much turning torque, reduce the torque number to 185 ft. lb. Go to 6.

This focus on the small chamber heads has more to do with SCCA's IT rules then anything else. Unless you're building a car for a specific race series that requires an original (for the model/year) head casting, you should start with a bigger valve head and build the combustion chamber/compression ratio you want.

I don't want, I just get it. Almost getting used to it.

The pan and pickup are built and in the car. I'm waiting for the startup and for the car to be run for a while before I decided whether I'm building and selling the pan. Filling it with water it looks like its will hold 7 to 8 quarts but i need to check what the dipstick shows.

Valve seats or valves sunk more into the head? Thicker head gasket?

Depends on your budget. Carillo, Pauter, and others make custom rods in various materials that work very well. For a more budget build folks typically use the rods out of a 1973 240Z with the 9mm rod bolts.

How about 5"? Here's a car I crewed on at the Rolex 24 way back when. You could not stand with your ankle next to the exhaust when the car fired up. It would actually light your pants leg on fire.

I suggested that every member submit a stool sample before being allowed to post. That way they could give the Admins crap right from the start and get it over with.

And a lesson from the States: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_pgUUhIjAw

A lesson from down under: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpZefXD-U9s

I think the issues in the Anti discussion are brought about by the lack of understanding of force vectors and their affects on many different suspension designs and chassis configurations. At least I have a lot of trouble with it...