johnc

Ozone and time are very effective rubber bushing killers. FYI... you physically cannot reproduce the forces generated by the rolling chassis at 50 mph.

You most likely need to replace the rear suspension bushings and maybe the rear shocks.

I use BAX Global for all my freight shipments. They were bought by DB Schenker but the same folks at BAX are still running things here in the US.

The ZX is better, aerodynamically, then the Z. Look at the back end of the car and the steeper windshield rake.

I will say that 3" is NOT too big for an NA engine and there's lots of information here to prove that. For you're particular situation its overkill. But you will not lose horsepower or torque anywhere in the rpm band with a properly designed 3" exhaust on your car. And if someone wants to continue this debate, let's take it to the threads specific to that topic.

No. You don't set it to any torque setting. Here's the procedure from the FSM: 1. Tighten wheel bearing nut to 22 ft. lbs. 2. Turn wheel hub several rotations in both directions. 3. Again, tighten wheel bearing nut to 22 ft. lbs. 4. Turn wheel bearing nut back 45 to 60 degrees from tight until you line up with one of the cotter pin holes. 5. Install the adjusting cap and a NEW cotter pin.

The rims are most likely Shelby copies of Minilites. With the pitting visible they are most likely trash. "From small pits come large cracks and big crashes."

Yes. I just looked at an assembled pair under my parts washer, behind the pile of rags, where the rats made their nest.

Which header? 40mm Webers are the lower limit on a stock L24 with a cam. A 2.5" exhaust will work fine but if you're planning on going to a L28 or bigger, head work, etc. then a 3" will be a better choice along with at least a set of 44s.

Just sent out by SCCA: RACING MEMO DATE: March 31, 2009 FROM: National Staff TO: All Participants SUBJECT: Impact Racing Product Recall

As posted above, a Z car that can run reliably around a track for over a few hours isn't a $500 car.

I've done all three methods when installing flares on the rear of the S30 and here's what I have learned: 1. You might as well cut the wheel well up to the attachment holes on the ZG flare. Leaving any metal below that just leaves you vulnerable to having to go back and cut/weld some more once the wheels and tires are fitted and the car is loaded with people and stuff. 2. The ZG flares can only be moved up an inch or maybe 1.5" from where they are designed/molded to fit. 3. Either of the three methods will work and it mostly depends on what you're comfortable with (welding or pounding), how straight the 1/4 panel is to begin with, and how clean you got everything (you can pound dirt, you can't weld it).

I don't think bearing races have any copper in them. They are generally hardened steel. The brown color is probably from heat which can come from improper greasing, poor quality grease, seized roller bearings (as noted above) or a too tight set. The outer bearing takes a lot of the lateral load and if the castle nut is too tight it will cause failure like that shown above. The one bad sport can be from contact on one roller bearing as the car sat after a drive.

You're welcome! Always glad to help someone build a silly fast 240Z.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e5mzH005kw

If you folks are going to all of this trouble to get a 10th of percent reduction in drag then I assume you've already ducted cool air to the brakes. If not, then you will get a much greater decrease in lap times by doing the brake ducting then adding these little flaps in front of the front wheels.

FYI... I edited my post above. You can't get the diff mount too tight unless you break a bolt. I just had a typing error above.

Bet you haven't tried this: http://jalopnik.com/5302246/awesome-defined-the-10+liter-radial+engined-goggomobil

If the vibration increases with vehicle speed then its somewhere in the driveline from the end of the transmission to the wheels. Check to make sure everything is assembled tight, the diff mount is installed correctly and that you didn't damage the diff mount when you forgot to tighten it down. Halfshafts are not indexed and you shouldn't get a vibration from the halfshafts from lowering the car. make sure your halfshafts are seated completely in the side axles. Sometimes, if you tighten the bolts down unevenly, the halfshaft mounting shoulder will cock in the side shaft.

The car supplier for the studio probably bought a fleet sale from a municipality. Maybe 50 Dodge Coronets all painted NYPD blue.

Perpetual motion? http://nextbigfuture.com/2009/06/nanoscale-might-allow-fairly-efficient.html And for those that don't know who Maxwell's demon is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maxwell's_demon

Looks like a great idea. Its half the price I would charge to make a set which makes sense. Most of the billable time is on the mockup and design. Just make sure you, as the designer, keep the primary lengths correct and get the primaries into the collector true. Primary pipe OD in the mockup might be a concern if you're running primaries larger then the OD of 1.5" PVC pipe.

You need to put a window in the floorboard and some steering on the wheelie bars...

Get a replacement rack. Used they are not too expensive.

They reduce drag from the rotating wheel and increase the low pressure are in the front wheel well if used in conjunction with other front tray modifications. By themselves with no front tray mods they mostly add weight.