johnc

What you drag guys might try is run a lot of rebound in the front shocks to pick up the wheel/tire and limit the rise (you'll still get the weight transfer). This also lets the front suspension droop over a short time period so that when the car comes down there's some suspension travel left. You'll have to experiment with the rebound valving and front spring rate to control the rate of droop. Ideally the front tires are just touching the pavement from launch through the very first part of the run. If you're really good with the shock tuning, you'll adjust the front compression damping and spring rate to let the front of the car drop as far as possible by mid track to improve the aerodynamics (air over the top of the car is better then air under the car).

Why don't you post the answer so it comes up in future searches?

Look at outside diameter and height of the front springs on the 280ZX and compare them with the front springs on the 260Z. That should answer any of your questions.

Unless you have a flow bench that can simulate multiple intake ports and later a test engine with Lambda and EGTs on all cylinders within 2" of the exhaust valve. Then there's the really cool spark plugs that can sense combustion chamber vibrations, electrical resistance, and cylinder pressures and dump that to a Motec EMS. CFD can get you close (sometimes real close) but you still need to be able to do mechanical tests to validate what the software tells you.

So, you're building a 1,000hp car and you're relying on information from "some kid"? I think you need to be like Danny Larusso and find yourself a Mr. Miyagi.

I am also using more of the push-lock hose fittings as replacements for braided lines. I don't rely on just the push lock connection though. I usually add a oetiker clamp. http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/html/productline/mfgprod/oetiker.htm

Yeah, figure the cost of the chassis plus another $35,000 in build costs plus another $10,000 in development and you're ready to go!

I've used BAX Global to ship lots of different stuff to Oz. I happened to be on the phone with them and they require a wheel/tire combo to be deflated and boxed or crated so its unlikely that Tire Rack, Discount Tire, or the other US suppliers will be willing to ship directly. You can have them shipped to my shop and I can box or crate them up and send them via BAX. I'll have to charge a couple hours of my time to source the boxes, package, etc. I don't make money on the shipping so my actual costs will be what you're charged. Having raced on the R1s I can say that they are not anything really special. If you can get the 710s or the Hoosiers those are better tires. The Toyo R888 is about the same as the BFG R1.

You can run a VQ35 on 87 octane. The computer adjusts for the lower octane fuel and dials back power. As far as modifying the VQ35 to run as well on 87 octane as it does on 91 or 93 octane, you'll need to consult with a Nissan ECU engineer. http://www.nissan.co.jp/ or call 0120-315-232 and ask for Hoji in the Powetrain and Engine Management department.

No. You must remove the old powder coating to allow the new powder to stick to the part before baking.

If the dual MC setup has an adjustable bias bar, you should be able to tune your brake bias near perfect, once you get the MC sizes correct.

The VGs need to direct air towards a low pressure area. The ones on the front splitters of race cars are more flow control devices then VGs with the idea being to direct as much flow as possible towards a low pressure area (the front wheel wells typically). http://www.mulsannescorner.com/benzCLR2.html

Whenever I take a wheel off a car, I put my torque wrench on the driver's seat. Pretty good reminder of the last, most important step.

Search "spindle pin" on this site. This, as said above, is a right of passage into S30 adulthood.

Happy birthday Mike. Drink an Ensure with a Geritol chaser for me.

That's exactly the point of this question: compromise, compromise, compromise. Suspension design and development is the art of compromise.

I think your power issues have more to do with altitude and gearing then anything else. Finding a VG30 turbo engine out of a Z31 would probably be a better solution and you "might" be able to sneak that by the smog folks.

IMHO, a dual MC setup is a bit much for a street car - and I make and sell one. I would try a rear pad compound with a more aggressive initial bite the the R4S. Try the Hawk Blacks. If Hawk doesn't make a pad for that caliper, call Porterfield. They will custom cut a pad for you. EDIT: Your brake setup is inherently very front biased so there's only so much you can do to balance it out.

Low single digit percent increase in toughness (durability).

Anti-dive adds bind (resistance) to load transfer under braking. This resistance is primarily through suspension arm geometry (on street cars) when there's a torque rotating through the suspension arms. http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/antidive_suspension_tech_parameters/index.html

Buy a cheap 4 cylinder pickup truck. They will easily get 30+ mpg and you have something to haul parts around for your Z.

Its considered a light truck and falls under the passenger car smog rules. You need a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of 8,500lbs or more to get into the truck smog rules.