johnc

That part of the frame rail also takes the loads from braking. It needs to be sound so most likely the frame rails and the structure above the frame rails in the wheel well needs replacing.

Mike, I got the new parts for the 2JZGTE x-member. Price dropped to $300 and the parts are now 4130 CroMo. The main tube is 1.5 x .120 DOM. This should be plenty strong for your needs. Give me a call if you want to order the part.

The FSM has the procedure on page CL-6. Basically the distance between the pedal pad (where your foot goes) to the floor right behind the pedal pad should be 8.9" with the return spring removed and 8.8" with the return spring installed. You adjsut the height via the clevis on the clutch MC pushrod. You also need to adjust the slave cylinder after adjusting the clutch pedal. Once the pedal is at the correct height and the slave adjusted, the clutch pedal should have 1" of free travel before the salve cylinder start moving.

And where are the pictures of the car parked in front of some Texas chaparral? You've got the obligatory picture of it in front of some Cherry trees, now you need a 'Merican picture of the car.

Before your start work on this part of the car, carefully check the rest of the car. If this is the only problem area, its not a big deal.

Make sure you're not overstroking (careful boys) the clutch master. Check the clutch stop and clutch MC rod adjustment on your clutch pedal.

Stuck it and improved the title a bit. Good post.

At what load did you start to see deflection?

skipjobe, You need to fix those image links.

No real difference in the front from the S30: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126789

L28/N42 is the best of the combinations you have. The E31 head is of some value to someone doing a restoration but they are not the hot thing anymore from a performance standpoint. They used to be of value to the ITS racers but rule changes and technology advances over the years negated their compression ratio advantage. Their smaller valves are an impediment to performance in road racing classes that require stock, unmodified heads.

3" x .063" wall welded steel tubing is kind of normal for most cars. You can save a little weight with .049" wall but its a little more expensive and can crack easier. Summit, SPD, and many other mail order places sell the tubing in 3' lengths and they also sell mandrel bends in various degrees and CLRs.

What a horrible accident. My prayers are with the Kalitta family and crew.

A very rough estimate of what the car will likely need: Floor pans $1,600 Frame rails $600 Rocker panels $1,200 Hatch holes $500 Roof holes $500 Hood holes $500 Battery tray $500 You're looking at roughly $5,400 to end up with a clean shell. That's what a very good condition 280Z sells for.

Air bags deploy based on a instant g-load, not vehicle speed. They will still deploy if your car is stopped and gets hit in the front. Having driven a couple of my cars on dynos, if the car is not strapped down properly there can be some pretty large shock loads. I saw a big horsepower FWD Pontiac GTP pull its rear lower control arms out of their bushings on a dyno run. EDIT: Chassis dynos car be very dangerous. I showed up at Superior's dyno in Anahiem as the paramedics were hauling away the dyno operator. The big horsepower Camaro he was running blew a driveshaft and it flew sideways and snapped the operator's ankle, which was hanging out the driver's door during the run. The driveshaft also knocked over a big Snap-On toolbox.

The Bad Dog frame rails are $280 a set plus shipping for the 240Z and $170 a set for the 280Z.

Just get one of these, seal the float bowls and all other passages, and you're set:

Contact Curtis or Amy Lee on Oahu. They are the local Z aumakua's. You can probably reach them through the SCCA Hawaii web site: http://www.sccahawaii.org/.

I don't know. The body measurements diagram has been scanned and is posted somewhere here on the site. Do a search and then check the numbers on your car.

A 15 x 7 wheel with 225/50-15s is just about perfect for a 240Z. The only thing better is a 15 x 8 wheel with the same size tire. I'm very happy with the Sumitomo HTRZIII tire and am running a set as the street tires on my 350Z. The Hankook Ventus R-S2 also looks like a great high performance street tire. I saw a number of ST class cars running them at the last autocross.

If you're being charged storage, I can pick it up with my car trailer and store it at the shop for a week until you can arrange transport. There are a lot of automotive shipping alternatives.

Winglets are flow control devices and don't, by themselves, generate any downforce. Canards do generate downforce but usually in single digit numbers.

I wouldn't do it. I've done three rotisserie floor pan and rocker panel replacements on 240Z shells and I always weld in an X in both doors before I start any work on the car. I weld them in with the door shut and then remove the door.

Glad the roll bar mods worked out. No video of the 350Z. I need to break down and buy a Chase Cam; right after an AMB transponder; right after springs; right after...

Do one panel replacement at a time and weld in the X brace per Brad's suggestion. If you can pull the engine and transmission that will remove some load on the chassis.