johnc

They are neither stock nor rare.

Regarding the exhaust, the Stahl header is a 3 into 1 (6 into 2) design with 2.5" collector outlets. You need to merge two 2.5" inlets into a 3" outlet. The merge collector needs a specific minor throat diameter along with a specific length 3 or 7 degree transition to the major throat diameter (3").

I had to replace both alternator mounts. Ended up building two news ones out of 4130.

Great color. Looks good.

Cost is the big issue for most. I've posted links to Wolf Creek Racing here a few times. Here it is again: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/

Todd's been selling those for a while to the racing community. The best you can buy.

That sounds like the cam I ran in the Rusty Old Datsun. Is this a track only car or do you plan on driving it on the street? EDIT: Never mind. My experience with that cam: 1. Reasonable idle is around 1,500 rpm. 2. Power band is from 4,000 to 7,250. 3. Lots of torque with a little bump in power delivery aorund 5,600. 4. Reinforce your alternator mount. 5. If you're running regular fan belts, upgrade to deep groove pulleys and/or a wider belt. 6. You'll need the 1 3/4" primary Nissan Motorsports header or the same size Stahl header (preferred). 7. 3" exhaust at a minimum and you'll need a good Y pipe with a real merge collector. 8. The car will be loud under power. Be prepared to re-gear the car especially for autocross use. You'll need to top out at 75 mph in second and you will have to use first gear if the rpms in second get below 4,000. Find a gear calculator and do some figuring.

Parts car.

The 240Z also positions the bottom of the front strut tube over the ball joint. Its very similar to the Z31 front strut setup. Having run the 8611s on a S30 it takes the removal of four bolts and one anti-roll bar end link to get at the compression adjuster on the front 8611s. Its not something that has to be done very often and I am able to do in 15 minutes on the front of an S30. The rebound adjustment is normally used more often then compression when tailoring a car to a specific track. Compression gives the base platform (almost like spring rate) and then rebound is used to control the sprung mass. I did build a geared adjuster for the 8611 once and it wasn't worth the expense and effort IMHO. The customer liked it, used it once or twice, and then left the compression adjuster at 3 for the next two years. Measure the ID of the strut tubes to make sure the 8611 will fit. The OD of the 8611 shock body is 1.71".

You need this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=OILFILTADAPT And this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1226 And run in the following order: Outlet on the Adapter > Filter > Thermostat > Cooler > Inlet on the Block. Also, plug off the relief valve in the block. Run at least -10 lines with -12 preferred.

That sucks. Hope Ramone is good.

You need to resize your master cylinders. I ran the 2800s with Hawk Blacks behind 16 x 10 Kodiaks wrapped 275/45-16 Hoosier R4S04 and could instantly lock up all 4 wheels at over 126 mph (don't ask me how I know that).

If you do the math, you'll see that the R200 has an 7.9" ring gear. How many Mustangs are racing with an 8" rear and making lots more then 350hp? Run a good LSD or weld it, run a good synthetic 80/140 GL5 fluid and you should be fine.

A 240Z is a unibody/monocoque design and it has no "chassis" per se. The basic body shell is the chassis. There are tons of posts here about where to look for rust on these cars. Buying the most rust free car you can afford is the most important part of your purchase decision. All the mechanicals are easily fixable compared to the labor required to repair rust. Probably, but there is a great wook written specifically about restoring a 240Z: http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212161518&sr=8-1 That book and the factory service manual for the specific year S30 you purchase are, IMHO, mandatory for any restoration effort. Two additional books are: http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212161643&sr=1-12 http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1555611591/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212161719&sr=1-1

A fairly cheap starting point is the Tokico Illumina Advanced Handling Kit. Five way adjsutable shocks and springs with spring rates at 175 lb. in. (Progressive "working" rate) and 200 lb. in. rear. I sell the kit and you can see the prices on my web site. If you start lowering the car a lot, you can keep your front Illuminas and put them in a pair of shortened rear struts. Then, buy a pair of the Toyota MR2 Illuminas and put them in a shortened pair of front struts. Add a coilver kit with camber plates to all struts, up your spring rates into the 225F/250R rance, and now you've got a good autocross/track day car.

I don't have an aswer as to why the 240Z has a slightly longer wheelbase on the right side of the car and its not something I try correct on a race car. Its never really been an issue I've spent time studying. There are many other, more important issue with the strut based suspension on the 240Z that, IMHO, a slight wheelbase difference is low on the priority list. If I ever get time to setup the S30 in the Mitchell suspension geometry software I have I shoudl be able to figure things out. Also, since the original problem only appears under braking, I would go back and look at the TC rod, the brake system, etc. I would also rotate the tire left to right.

The wheelbase on the 240Z is supposed to be different left to right. Try taking out the 1/8" spacer.

Whoo Hoo! But, as mentioned above, we need video!

If the team owner gave me that, I'd quit the team.

Wiring will always be a problem, but its a very minor problem compared to crash damage and rust. Focus on the important thing - the condition of the shell itself. You can pay someone to professionally rewire a car for $1,500. It will cost you at least that much money to pay someone to replace both floor pans if they are rusty. Then add in the cost of rocker panel, battery tray, frame rail, rear striker, and wheel arch rust repair (if needed).

Check the shell for accident damage and rust. Everything else can be replaced.

Looks like a typical 190,000 mile L6 engine.

Do the basics first: 1. Valve adjustment. 2. Change the plugs and properly gap them. 3. Change the points and set the dwell. 4. Change the cap and rotor. 5. Set the timing. 6. Sync the carbs. 7. Change the fuel filter(s). 8. Adjust the clutch.

16 out of 18. I missed the 455 Olds and the 360 Mopar.

A rev limiter needs to be in the ignition box or the ECU, not the distributor trigger. Most MSD, Crane, Mallory, and other aftermatket ignition boxes have adjustable rev limiters built in. All aftermarket ECUs have provisions for a rev limiter. Running a L6 engine with stock valve springs above 7,000 rpm will reduce the rating of the springs. The springs get softer by some small amount. ITS racers, who have to run the stock valve springs, tend to replace the springs a couple times a season of they are regularly running the engine over 7,000 rpm on the track. Also, a rev limiter does not save you from a bad downshift.