johnc

He asked for your name and was somewhat stunned that the engine sat for 27 years between the build and the first start.

I'm guilty of damaging a couple cars when I was younger and thought the whole thing was pretty funny until... We set a can trap across a residential street (fishing line strung across the street atop two sticks with cans tied to each end) and waited. A brand new (paper plates) Corvette comes down the street pretty fast, hooks the string, and the force pulled the can up in the air and they bounced off the back decklid. The car locks up the rear brakes, spinds a 180, and smokes the rear tires ehading right back at us. We start running. Two guys jump out and chase me down - I thought I was running like the wind but the one guy was really fast. They are not happy and yell to the neighbors to call the cops. As I look at the guy who chased me down (the driver) I realize why he was so fast. Jim Fregosi.

"Pin-on" means four pins holding the hood on the car. The OEM style inner frame is needed if you plan to use the front hood hinges. A 4" rise is fairly tall and I made it that way for some of the crazier swaps being done on this site. JC Whitney and others were already making 2" rise cowl hoods for the 240Z so it didn't make sense to enter that crowded market. This is what is looks like sitting in t he driver's seat of a 240Z:

Now that's funny! A custom header for $200?

What's really funny is that I'm probably the only person in this thread who's contacted the company and is discussing pricing for the blocks, the cutting jigs, and the plan software. Having built a couple headers for customers I KNOW how much time this can save me in my work.

Oh well. Humor fails us again.

Geez! Anyone driving a Z will be me! I haven't driven in anger for so long my dead grandma would lap me. I am not a standard to be compared against, believe me.

So I'm supposed to spoon feed you because you don't have the time to go through a result list from a search? I'm thinking you're posting on the wrong web site since we often ask our members to search.

Put some 3/32 filler wire in the smurf tubing and it keeps its shape pretty well, especially if you wave a propane torch near it. I'm not saying smurf tubing is better then the tool that's the subject of this thread, but its a cheap, effective tool for the home builder.

IMHO, in medium to high speed corners (80+ mph) you want a car that slightly understeers under power. This allows a bit of adjustment with a very slight throttle lift. It gives the driver a small way out if the corner entry or apex was missed.

Holy crap!

There's this thing called a "search engine" and if you put in the words "smurf tubing" and press Enter, all will be revealed...

It helps if you draw pictures of what he's talking about. The turn center concept really helps.

My head hurts:

You can do the same using cheap electrical Smurf tubing from Home depot.

$10 says you'll see the blingers sticking these to the front of their intercooler.

Is there weld on your adapter? If not 7075 or 2024 would be better material choices.

FYI... you might be a month too late: http://www.ronalusa.com/dev/english/infos/dealers.htm

Absolutely! That was the point of my critique. Terry chickened out at the last second because of watching too many Star Trek reruns.

I've done the math on the gas/diesel cost comparison every time I've went to purchase a new truck. The break even point has always been 150K to 175K miles for my driving and fuel cost situation. For me, the diesel doesn't work out financially because I've usually worn the truck's chassis out at that mileage number (GCVW 18,0000 to 20,000 lbs at least two weekends per month). An engine that can go 300,000 miles is of no value to me when the truck the engine is in is worn out.

V-Band is the best IMHO. For most racers I use slip fit with springs because the exhaust is coming off the car a lot. Its pretty cool when you have 30 minutes between race sessions to crawl under the car with a pair of pliers and have the exhaust off in under a minute - pop the springs with the pliers and kick the exhaust off with your feet - all the while screaming DAMN THAT'S HOT!

I always wonder why people still use the old style flat flanges when building their exhausts. There are so many quicker, neater, cleaner, less leaky solutions out there.

Early Tundras 5.7Ls had a cam problem that caused the engine to go boom. They should have all been fixed now under warranty (Toyota replaced the complete engine in the recalled trucks). No problems that I'm aware of regarding the 4.7L engines. Have not heard anything bad about the Titans and they tend to be cheaper then the Toyotas. Dodge Rams are your basic Dodge truck. Sturdy and on the whole reliable except for little things. Cheap and easy to find. The are the least refined of the trucks out there which may be an issue for your wife (we already know were your level of refinement is Dan). FYI... you might want to look at a new truck. March was the worst car sales month in at least the last 5 years and trucks are stacking up on dealer lots like cordwood. I'm sure you can get 0% APR for 5 years with no money down and at least a $5,000 rebate.

Seeing the pictures of you guys in those white bunny suits around Easter pretty much put me off the Easter Bunny forever...

Arizona Z Car sells a set if 185F and 200R OEM size springs. People also have had success using 1980 through 1985 Chevette front springs on all four corners of the Z. Those springs, after some cutting, are in the 200 lb. in. range.