johnc

Doubtful. In that situation you are hauling aorund the extra weight of the turbo and associated plumbing. When the turbo isn't providing boost, its just extra weight. What a turbo does do is allow a smaller displacement engine to operate, under acceleration, the same as a large displacement engine. Under load, a turbocharged engine most likely consumes the same amount of fuel as a large displacement engine that produces the same horsepower. The fuel saving advantage of a turbo charged engine comes when the engine is not under load (80% of most driving on the street). Then the engine is operating as a small displalcement engine with a little bit of extra weight (the turbo) to haul around. For most light load/cruise a small displacement engine works just fine.

Oh Man! I would LOVE to have that truck. I would be driving around just looking for red Plymouth Valiants.

#1. Steve McQueen's Porsche 917K in "Le Mans." #2. Siegfried Rauch's Ferrari 512S in "Le Mans." All others are just props. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M3dLBL1Nzk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gwy7GoMQNk

You've never driven on a race track at 10/10ths for 45 minutes. Get your competition license and do a Spec Racer Ford rental at the next local SCCA event or rent a shifter kart and run a 30 minute heat race.

BMW did a lot of research in the early 1980s regarding proper engine design and driving technique for max fuel economy. A lot of that research is appropriate to this discussion. Some of their findings: 1. Reducing engine rpm increases fuel economy via the reduction of friction losses. 2. Increasing throttle opening reduces pumping losses which increases fuel economy. 3. Steady state cruise can go as lean as 20 to 1 with proper engine management. 4. Gearing has a significant affect on fuel economy. The result of these findings was the Eta engine series. They were designed to produce good low end torque, had internal friction reductions (light valve springs and oil ring tension, etc.), and had specially designed ECUs that went real lean at cruise. Gearing was tall and the dash upshift light was programmed to get the driver into 5th or top gear as quickly as possible. The throttle control was also non-linear so the driver got larger throttle openings then normal with any resulting surge controlled through the ECU.

Let's say you're on the last lap of the Indy 500 and a fuse blows. You're done and finish 25th. If you have a circuit breaker you can reset it, cross the finish line, collect the $1M prize money, and then worry about the problem. A circuit breaker in a race car is a great idea. Its also a good idea on a street car if the owner is intelligent and thoughtful. New cars with 24, 36, and 42V subsystems already have curcuit breakers installed.

Hypermiler? Hypermilling? Did someone just invent a fancy term to describe driving like an old lady?

The typical racing circuit breaker just needs a 3/8" hole in a flat panel. I've installed a few using sheet aluminum mounted to the roll cage. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=130,53,363_1183&action=product

My condolences to their family and yours. Thank them for what Casey has done for our country.

Ouch!

You're right in that once things are tight, additional torque won't change things. But what's "tight"? There are 9 parts in this assembly: hub, two bearings, spacer, companion flange, stub axle, nut, and washer. Bearings are being pulled into their seats in the hub, the spacer is being loaded, a washer and the new stub axle nut are being tightened together for the first time, the stub axle is being stretched, etc. It may take 180 ft. lbs. to make things tight in one assembly and 240 ft. lbs. in another.

The 6 into 1 header will be a better choice. Make sure they send you the new version of the header with the thicker flange.

Here's the contact informaiton for the smart guys at Bilstein: AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST 14102 Stowe Drive Poway, CA. 92064 1-858-386-5900 Ask for Jack.

Engine selection for a hybrid swap is mostly an emotion decision based on what the owner likes. Here's some ways to help you decide: 1. When listening to a race car which type of engine makes a sound that causes the hair on he back of your neck stand up? 2. When driving a powerful car, do you prefer instant, off-the-line response or a hard pull at high rpm? 3. Do you like to shift a lot? 4. Do you prefer an engine that delivers power in a broad, flat way or do you prefer a more peaky power delivery?

You guys are right, my shim suggestion is the wrong solution. As stated, check the letter stamped on the outside of the hub and the letter stamped on the "disnace peice" (spacer) between the bearings. They must match (A to A, B to B, C to C).

The content and the value of this site comes from the members. Some of the members also voluntarily perform the role of mdoerators and administrators. All the admins and mods do is (to the best of their abilities and comensurate with their pay) ensure the rules are followed by the members. Its really pretty simple.

The mouse still died...

Part number 98126A430 on http://www.mcmaster.com should work. Place it between the inner bearing and the companion flange.

Tony D and I had a $1 bet for a number of years on whether my Rusty Old Datsun could break 150 mph. For those that don't know what the car was, there's a link about a dozen posts above in this thread. The fastest I personally drove it was 142 in turn 8 at WSIR. Erik Messley claims 148 mph in the same spot on the same track, based on rpm. I was never able to get the car to 150 mph on a race track but I might have been able to get it to that speed at Cal Speedway on the Roval had I raced there. So, the $1 was never collected by me.

Well, congratulations, you were clever enough to beat the free filter that comes with our board software. I guess we won't be able to protect everyone from themselves.

Bill Baker owns it and he's been trying to sell it for at least a year. For whatever reason there hasn't been much interest in the 610/710s in the vintage racing world. Lots of 240Zs, 1200s, and 510s are racing here on the west coast.

We have a filter that should catch most of them.

I really, really like my 2006 350Z. With just a little work on the suspension I've been able to make this car handles amazingly well - from low speed autocross corners to high speed (130+) track corners. So much so that a friend, who's pro race driver and after driving my car at Cal Speedway, has run out and bought a used 2006 350Z and is having me make the same changes to his car. He needed an instructor car for his driver coaching program. The 350Z is a very good car.

Although I can't verify this, I was told by a knowledgeable person that the early series 1 USA cars had an incorrect GVWR and that's one way to tell if its an early car or not.

330 to 350hp, 270 to 280 ft. lbs. 150 lbs. lighter, shorter and a wider track.