johnc

Oops. Forgot about that. How heavy is the "heavy85"?

Regarding caster, the TC rod and the LCA bushing has more to do with caster then the camber plate. The EMI plates let you get 1 to 2 degrees more caster by themselves but you have to watch out for bind in the LCA bushings and a stock length TC rod will negate some of the additional caster the EMI plate allows. I typically lengthen the stock TC rod about 1/2" to work with the EMI racing camber plate. Just that combination alone, along with custom Hydlar LCA bushings, got me 7 degrees of positive caster on my old 240Z with very little friction. If you're running a monoball for the LCA pivot you can get up to 9 degrees of positive caster, but you'll have to cut the front valance and air dam.

The 275/35-15 Hoosier A6s are working well for a lot of the SP guys. A customer who has moved his DSP E36 BMW to FP is staying with the A6s because, at 2,100 lbs, his BMW is quicker on those tires then the Goodyear and Hoosier slicks he's tested. The guys at Hoosier confirmed this in a couple phone conversations.

Steel: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel Cast Iron: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron Nodular Iron: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nodular_iron Most of the castings on the 240Z are either nodular iron or medium carbon cast steel. Parts that are exposed to bending loads (steering arms, spindle/hubs, etc.) are made from cast steel. Parts that encase something and are not exposed to tension/bending loads (rear end housings, engine blocks) are nodular iron.

We have only ourselves to blame for FRAM having to dumb down their quaility. When the vast majority of consumers purchase an oil filter based on price, FRAM could maintain their quality and go out of business or cheapen up the product and remain an on-going concern. BTW.... FRAM still makes the HP1 and its rated specs are as follows: 20 microns filtering. 500 psi max pressure. 9 to 12 psi bypass opening (.1 GPM). 10 GPM flow rating. Pressure drop rate: 2 psi @ 3.2 GPM 4.1 psi @ 4.8 GPM 4.8 psi @ 6.4 GPM 5.5 psi @ 8.0 GPM Its still a high quality racing oil filter.

Stiffness is a material's resistance to flexing, bending. Strength is a material's resistance to failure. Here's a simple way to figure out the difference: http://www.matter.org.uk/Schools/Content/YoungModulus/stiffnessExercise.html

Its looks fine to me. Welding diffs is not a very technical welding task. Use a lot of heat and pour in the filler. I ssume you flipped the carrier over and welded the other side where the side gears mesh.

Think of it this way: A high horsepower, normally aspirated engine is like an Italian mistress: Extremely exciting, high strung, tempermental, erotic, and something you have we dreams about. But she's not something you can live with for any length of time. A high horsepower turbo engine is like a German mistress: Reliable, predictable, very skilled, comfortable, strong as an ox, and something you can live with forever. But she isn't the something that gives you wet dreams.

A valve adjustment is part of the basic tune-up procedure for the L6 engine. A basic tune-up is very good idea before increasing the load on the engine through higher boost levels.

And its doing the cutting dry! http://www.amazon.com/gp/blog/post/PLNK1D9884FEA6IT6

That's why things like cockpit adjustable balance bars exist. They make it possible to get near perfect brake balance lap after lap, in the dry and in the rain.

If you're on the Stoptech web site, read their tech article about brake balance. That is orders of magnitude more important to good braking then caliper style (monoblock, two piece, etc.).

Depends on the rig... http://www.fthr.com/specialty/cat_template.cfm?cat=Race%20Transporters

Any DOT 3 or Synthetic DOT 5. Any DOT 4. DOT 4 - ATE Super Blue, Motul RBF600, Castrol SRF.

I ran Outlaw 2800 calipers all around on my 240Z and was very happy with them. They are currently on a CP3 VARA 240Z that's winning its class.

Just went through this whole process twice this week. Jon's suggestions above work 99% of the time getting the stub axles out of the housing. I encounterd that 1% a couple days ago. I literally had to use a 20 ton press to push the stub axle out of the housing. It seems the outer bearing siezed and then spun in the housing, for a while. God knows what horrible noise it must have made - it sure screamed when the press bore down on it. There were parts of the bearing outer race stuck to the housing. Threw the housing and the stub axle away. Probably should have at least took some pictures.

I sell the kit but I'm expensive. Summit Racing is usually the cheapest but they are often out of stock. Shox.com also ahs petty good prices.

That's normal for lowering springs and coil overs. Don't drive like Bo Duke and you'll be fine.

Stop focusing on how your old car drove - its irrelevant. You cannot compare how your old car handled with how the car performs today. Based on your description of how messed up the chassis was, there's no consistent baseline to compare from. You didn't know if your fast times came from the suspension, chassis flex, or your adaptations to a funky car. Focus on what you have, not what you had. Here are my suggestions for when you run the race tires (22.5" tall): Drop the front ride height to 5". Drop the rear ride height to 5.5". Increase front toe-out to 3/16 - 1/4". Put in as much positive caster as you can get. Set front camber in the 2 to 2.5 negative range. Set rear camber in the 1.5 to 2 negative range. Set rear toe-in to 1/8". Up your spring rates at least 33% (300F, 250R maybe). Run a 25mm (1") front bar but have a 23mm (7/8") bar ready just in case. Leave the rear bar off but have a 17mm (5/8") bar ready just in case. Make the front track 1/2 to 1" wider then the rear. Adjust the throttle linkage to be as long and linear as possible. Remember, the older you get the faster you was. Right now it doesn't matter how fast you was.

The Tweel is stull under development at Michelin and there's no immediate plans for produciton. Some of the problems they are trying to work out: 1. Weight - about 30% heavier then a similar sized wheel and tire combination. 2. Vibration - above 60 mph the Tweel generates some unacceptable vibrations. 3. Noise - Extrmely noisy at speed.

I see something wrong here...

The HTS shocks have 7.5 turns of adjustment and are good to about a 400 lb. in. spring. Experiment within the range of 1 to 3 turns out from firm for what you have on you're car.

If the car feels like its dancing or skatey, I would check ride height. It sounds like your roll centers have gone underground and the car won't roll and take a bite. How tall are your tires? What's your ride height front and rear (measured at the rocker panels)?

Yes, it was the kid I sold it to. At the time I had the 810 and a 1971 240Z. I sold the 810 to buy suspension parts, wheels, tires, and exhaust stuff for the 240Z. The I sold the 240Z to buy suspension parts, wheels, and tires for my 350Z. See a pattern here?

ST kit 52095.