johnc

Contact Don Oldenberg at http://dpracing.co/index.html

The car in your link above is an autocross car and has a 5 gallon fuel cell. Not a good example unless you are building something similar.

The sheet metal between the rear subframe is not structural. As Greg mentioned above you need to build a frame around the fuel cell can that is welded to the subframe to support the 150 lbs of fuel and cell that are being hung there.

I still can't understand why folks would go with the S12+8 caliper in front. If you are not going to a vented rotor there is no performance advantage to adding two additional pistons and weight to the front. You are actually increasing braking distance by increasing front bias. Go with the S12W caliper and vented rotor in front or just leave the stock part in place. You'll save money.

Pay attention to your wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and ball joints. Inspect and grease them regularly.

If the engine has all of its original emissions components installed and working correctly, internally the engine is in good shape, and the engine is tuned correctly per the FSM it should be very easy to pass smog here in CA. It will also run well.

Aftermarket coil overs, by themselves, do not improve handling. A spring is a spring. What aftermarket adjustable coil overs give you is the ability to change springs a bit easier and corner height adjustability.

Just an FYI for those that might see this in eBay, Craigslist, or somewhere else. http://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/356089-barn-find-shop-find-race-prepped-280z-sale-socal.html

Take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. They will have to take the top and bottom tanks off and rod out the passages to get the sand out of the core. No other way. The sand appears to be physically jammed in the tubes and not amount of flushing will get it out.

You can replace the tailshaft housing. Its not worth the money to repair it. You will need to check the output shaft for straightness.

Its not a legal issue. It might be an issue if you're trying to sell the car as numbers matching.

Don't tack weld the bolt! That will cause a loss of torque even though the bolt head does not turn. The heating and cooling will cause the thread faces to loose friction. Just install new fasteners correctly per the FSM and use some blue Loctite if it makes you feel better.

The engine appears to be built for road racing, which means it is probably lacking low end torque and power. Some people have trouble driving an engine like that especially with a lightweight flywheel. You'll need 2,000+ rpm to get it moving from a stoplight and that gets irritating. I drove my race engine on the street a few times and it attracted a lot of attention, including a motorcycle cop who heard it from 1/4 mile away as I pulled away from a light. He turned around to find out what was going on. Luckily no ticket or impound. Real race L6 engines dont like anything below 4,000 rpm and multi-disc clutches like the one that appears to be on that engine are either in or out. Slipping these clutches tends to destroy them quickly, depending on the clutch compound.

Yes, it lost torque and slowly worked out. You noticed it after a year but is was loose soon after the welding. A good practice is to loosen and retorque any bolt affected by the welding heat.

Stop guys! The bolt came loose from the heating and cooling caused by the welding. Absolutely normal. Get a new bolt, lock washer, and washer and torque to spec.

From the expert in our shop... When Venturi size is close to the bore size in the carb you lose signal/sensitivity across the mains. These extended nozzles increase the signal/sensitivity and make the carb more tunable.

I've known about the car for about 15 or 20 years.

Ron Carter is the man to talk to.

A short video of it coming out the horse trailer it was stored in for a few years. https://vimeo.com/101361546

Yup.

There are no special tricks for a period build. They also had to build to a rule set. Except for carbuation, I think current SCCA HP engine builds are close to what was done in 1975. Are you building a replica? If not, using more modern thinking can get you more power for less money. You also have to build for current unleaded and oxygenated fuels if you are building a street engine

Air powered scraper and a 3" twisted wire wheel.

That coil spring calc is for a complete spring as built. Cutting coils, in actual practice, does not get the results the calc indicates. You generally get about 60% of the increase in rate the calc says you should. At least that's from my experience using a spring tester after cutting coils.

Despite the wording in the rule book, its my understanding that, in practice, most any two piston rear caliper is EP legal as long as you're running the solid 11" rotor. Contact Doug Gill in the SCCA tech office to confirm that.

Check to make sure the MC you have has the front and rear brake ports in the same place as the one you replaced.