johnc

The Urethane upper insulators are known to break the threaded top section off the shock shaft. Not enough flex in the urethane. That's why camber plates run spherical bearings and the factory rubber insulators have a lower durometer (60A).

Remember, there is no best on hybridz.

The OS Giken Super Lock LSD. The VLSD is not that effective in competition use. Second best option is the R200 CLSD.

There is no such thing as "bolt on" in the automotive aftermarket. Repeat that out loud. "Bolt on" is a BS marketing term to convince rubes to part with their money. My bet is that 50% of the parts sold as "bolt on" never get bolted on and are sitting on shelves in garages. Whenever you see that term, know you will need a $5,000 lathe and $10,000 mill to actually bolt the parts on the car. Clive, use this stuff on your ball joints and get air to the front brakes. Use stainless safety wire or zip ties to keep it in place. http://store.bimmerworld.com/gold-foil-protective-film-p841.aspx

I'm sure its fine but actual capacity of any foam filled fuel cell is about 15% less then advertised. If your trunk area is already cut out look at a Sportsman cell. More expensive but greater capacity and you have better mounting options.

Tokicos will also fail with lowering springs. You have to install new bump stops with the KYBs and Tokicos to keep from bottoming the shocks internally. Do that a couple times and the foot valve or piston gets damaged.

We can do it, but we are not the low price leader... Http://bentonperformance.com

Not that I know of.

Ok, the door bars are unsupported up front so, if a vehicle hits you in the side they will do nothing. But you are not racing with another vehicle on track so probably not an issue. The door bars should intersect straight into the front floor plate and not curved down to the plate. You want a direct load path. But, again, it meets the rules and, assuming the rule makers know what they are doing, you should be ok.

No need to gusset a roll bar.

Chevrolet Chevette springs. Been discussed here many times. Search and you'll get the Moog part numbers.

For our non-Porsche fab work we've been sending cars to Pat at PSM. He's currently putting a BMW engine in a 1964 Peugoet 404 for us. http://www.psmfab.com/home.html

Looks good.

We're worried about your head, not our time. Have your buddies take a baseball bat, wrap it in foam, and then have them hit you in the head as hard as they can. That is the best case scenario. Worst case: take a 1.5" OD steel tube and have your buddies do the same thing, without the padding.

Muscle car interiors have more room then a S30, Porsche 911, etc. The issue with a full cage is that the door hoops will turn a minor accident into a concussion.

At low speeds and depending on the pump, a lot of fuel can be returned to the tank. In addition, fuel temperature rise can cause tank pressurization. In extreme cases, like an exhaust system falling off, bending the vent line shut, and the exhaust blowing directly on a metal tank - the tank pressure can increase so much that the tank balloons and tears the straps off the car. Don't ask me how I know that and thank God for Toyota quality.

You car originally vented the fuel tank to a charcoal canister. Most likely an ignorant previous owner removed "all the emission crap" as mentioned above. A pressurized fuel tank is dangerous. Fix the venting system on your tank.

Thanks for all your work Danny.

It looks fine to me but if you're concerned add a second tube from the engine bracket to the frame rail making a "Y". The frame gets the two legs and the engine gets the one leg of the "Y". Sorry for the late reply.

The metal thickness ratings on 110v welder a are not accurate. No more the 1/4" thick material in my experience and I own the Lincoln 135 and have used the Miller 135. To get good penetration on 3/8" steel you have to weld slow enough that duty cycle limits kick in.

The main hoop needs to mount directly to the chassis and not to a crossbar. The wheel wells are very strung structures - double walled and with a lot of support.

The cam cover will normally get to 175 to 200 degrees in regular driving.

IRRC, The threaded 10mm mounting holes below the 1/4 window are mounting points for a factory roll bar. Pics of the 432-R and the ralley cars show mounting points there.

The cars had a front pan from under the radiator to the front cross member from the factory. That actually helps cooling. For most production based front engine/RWD cars that have a sealed under body, radiator and under hood air is exhausted through the hood and the back side of the front fender wells. Transmission and diff coolers are mounted remotely with ducting from the sides of the car and exits above the rear diffuser as Jon mentioned above. The idea is to not disrupt air flow under the car so diffusers can work. I've gone that route with a customer's E36 BMW and it worked vary well at speed. Its not as effective at low speed and at idle so you have to minimize time spent not moving.

Check Dan's update here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/117162-hybridzorg-not-available/?do=findComment&comment=1098280