johnc

The soup can idea has been around as long as there have been solid rotors - and soup cans.

Need double door bars or an "X". The rear main hoop braces must end at a chassis attachment point, not on another tube. That will fail NASA, SCCA, VARA, HSR West, and NHRA tech. It's a really bad idea. A rear impact that bends the bars going to the back of the car will bend the stays and possibly move the main hoop. Who is the fabricator? I know a bunch of the NPTI, T-Mag guys. Remember, off-road roll cage design is based on single vehicle wrecks. Road race cage design is based on multiple vehicle wrecks.

That would only if a 3" duct to the spoiler is added to the front.

If you want the suspension to work, you'll need to run 5 to 5.5" of backspacing. And you're a complete fool sticking with 4 lugs and 1,000 whp.

Avoid the ERW. CM is not worth the money. Buy the DOM.

^ what he said.

If possible, mount the pump lower then the fuel tank so you get a siphon going. Testing the current draw is a great idea. I ran that exact pump on my race car and used 14ga wire with a 15 amp fuse. Shield the pump from the exhaust if it's close. With today's Ethanol diluted fuel it has less "cooling capacity" then when that pump was originally designed.

If you are shortening the strut tubes just buy the BZ3099 Illuminas for all 4 corners and make the correct length spacers for the rear.

Great post and yes, the secondary pressure drops help extend the range of scavenging. The general range for the primaries in a L6 header is 28 to 32" with some saying you can go as long as 36". That length is from the back of the valve to the last merge in the header collector or Y pipe. Longer is better if you want the extend the scavenging effect over a wider rpm range. But you will get a lessening of the peak due to reversion from the secondary pressure drops from other cylinders.

How can a ring gear 20mm smaller in OD be stronger? Assuming same number of spider gears and an open diff...

What crazy way to lose a bike.

I thought we banned this Opel loving member?

You will need to inspect and most likely clean/replace the following items. The worst thing to do to a Porsche is let it sit: Master Cylinder Brake Calipers Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Mesh Filter Fuel Pump Fuel Filter CIS Fuel Distributor Control pressure Regulator Fuel Accumulator Fuel Injection Nozzles Spark Plugs Oil Lines All Fluids Clutch and Pressure Plate Throwout Bearing Bowden Tube Turbo and All Related Controls If you're lucky the 20 year old fuel can be cleaned out of the items above. Be very careful because its very easy for these engines to go lean on a cylinder if the fuel system and primitive engine management system isn't clean and functioning well. Look for animal nests in the intake track, around the oil coolers, in the exhaust, etc.

Btw... I echo the sentiments above. This would be a great project car in your garage and will always be worth more then you have into it.

Agreed. You're looking at a minimum of $5k to get it running and drive able. Otherwise you stand a good chance of loosing the turbo and/or causing other engine damage. Condition is everything regarding value. We might be interested in purchasing the car as is. I've forwarded this thread to John Benton.

Ya think?

A couple issues can occur with the stock mounting location: 1. The bar might interfere with the front diff flange or the driveshaft. 2. The arms on the bar might bottom against the rear subframe. Be sure to check your installation.

But your point is meaningless. The car sells for what it sells for, not for what the owner put into it. In the S30 market if you get 50 cents on the dollar from the money you put into a Z you are very, very lucky. While prices are going up, its still a big money loser to restore (I mean really restore) a S30 chassis. Nothing has changed since Nissan lost 50% or more on every one of the 42 cars it ran through its Heritage Z program 10 years ago.

I would not spend any money on an over bore unless the block needs it. Spend your money on the head and cam. 200hp is easily attainable with stock dished pistons - with a good build you can hit almost 200hp in an L28 with the stock head, cam and SUs. Partts are easy. The horsepower is in the machining, assembly, and tuning.

You don't need an adapter. Just swap the flange. Your friend does not understand the R180.

There is an increasing amount of interest in 240zs from guys with money. I work in the vintage Porsche world now and I'm suddenly being quizzed about 240zs. Helped a Porsche collector buy a 240z built in 1969 last year and he plans a full restoration later this year or early next. The intent is to keep it for a couple years and then sell it at JCCS.

What racers run for cooling is generally not appropriate for a street car because race cars rarely idle.

At stock ride height the bump steer is pretty good on the S30.

Who owns the design and the related electronic drawing and specs after the contest is over?

Helical diffs require a torque load at each axle or the diff will go open. It's inherent in the design and can be band-aided by increasing preload. A better option is to reduce roll stiffness at the driven end of the car to keep from picking up a wheel. You also need to be careful curb hopping. Getting a wheel in the air, having it spin up as it goes open, and then slamming it back to ground has been known to destroy helical diffs.