johnc

The single fuel injector is where it is in F1 because of regulations. Its must be in the intake tract, not the head which is where the engineers want it. They are also fuel pressure limited to 100 bar to prevent direct injection. If there were no technical regulations the designers would probably be at 500 bar for one or more direct injectors right into the combustion chamber.

Use the clamp trick to figure out your ride heights and then weld the stock perch in that spot. Try to come up with about 2" of droop travel at the shock. Without knowing your spring rate you'll have to be careful about bump travel fr the coil bind issue. Progressive bumps stops as mentioned above is a great idea. Try every possible no point mod and cut out brackets, mounts, etc. to trim weight. Did that on a customer's E36 BMW and saved 80 lbs.!

You increased the spring preload by whatever the spring rate is * 2. Of more concern is that you are probably rebound travel limited. That can create issues in back if (or when) you pick an inside rear wheel up off the pavement. That leads to a spin. You can carefully cut the stock spring perch off at it base, weld a ring lower on the strut tube, and then weld the stock spring perch back on that ring.

It all depends on the plates. I suggested the above out of a safety concern.

Get the Chevette springs and cut them to whatever ride height you need.

You adjust like any other camber plate. Jack up the corner, loosen the adjusting bolts (or remove them), slide to the new position, tighten, drop the car, check camber.

Then the issue is the latest IE.

Windows 8 and 8.1 issue. Have the same problem.

Looks like they use a standard COM10 monoball so a blade type upper shock mount with a .624" OD (16mm) shoulder will work. Looks they also include sleeves for 15mm or 14mm OD shoulders as well. Unfortunately the upper part of the shock shaft will hit the strut tower so you'll have to enlarge the center hole if you want camber adjustments either side of maybe 1 degree over stock. You will also have to drop the strut to adjust camber unless you cut out more of the strut tower.

An extreme simplification: the coolant has to flow from the right side of the head to the left and then forward to the thermostat housing. The coolant flow around the back three cylinders tends to stagnate because it has to flow past the front three cylinders to get out of the head. By drilling holes in left side of the head at the coolant galleries you can pull the coolant directly out of the back three cylinders and route it externally forward to the thermostat housing (or the radiator). This eliminates the stagnation in the back three cylinders and also increases the flow in the front three.

Glad you're OK Hans.

The Stage 2 cam is also pretty mild for a Stroker. But you definitely have ignition or fuel issues.

My radiator was custom made for my car and engine. I have the drawings somewhere but the price will probably scare most folks away.

What you are seeing is not the shock shaft. That's the shock body - the Bilsteins are an inverted shock. The actual shaft is at the bottom inside the yellow tube.

The diff from the XT is not a CLSD and it has a flat cut in the cross shaft that the side axle bottoms against to bind the side gears. It's almost like a spool (I think). What you are seeing is normal for that diff when using the non XT specific side axles.

Everything you need to know is right here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

This was my setup - C&R/Infineon double pass high efficiency three tube core. The heat exchanger is on the right side and takes up that whole side tank. The radiator holds 25% less coolant then the Arizona Z Car radiator and worked great for 325hp on 100+ degree days. Coolant temps stayed around 200F and oil temps never went above 230F.

A water/oil heat exchanger does not impact cooling system temps as much as putting something in the way of the radiator. They are much more efficient and help stabilize oil and coolant temps.

I don't think wheel flex is the issue. From the pictures it appears that the wheel and/or spacer was not flat against the hub face and the mounting ears were put in tension as the lug nut were tightened (as mentioned).

Use a water to oil heat exchanger.

Must suck to see your wheel pass you. There's really not a significant strength difference between the 240 and 280 front hubs. For years I shipped steering 280Z racks, front crossmembers, stub axles, companion flanges, and rear LCAs to Star Motorsports in the UK for their rally 240Z builds. I asked about the front hubs and they said there was no difference from their experience. Buy replacement hubs and put them on a crack testing schedule - at least once per year.

Used caps in good condition are better then new. No difference between LD28 and L28 caps. No one can say how your engine will hold up under boot. The engine tune is far more important then the engine metallurgy.

"Billet" does not denote strength. Its mostly a marketing term now. The stock main caps are fine and I've run them to 8,000 rpm without issues using the V07 crank. Harmonic issues over 8,000 rpm (as mentioned above) can cause main cap breakage (if the crank doesn't fail first) but that is caused by improper balancing and/or a harmonic balancer not designed for those rpms.

There are a number of Soy based degreasers which I think is what you're looking for. Depending on the base stock for the biodiesel it might work as a degreaser or it might work as a greaser.

Rotational torque as opposed to vehicle weight is my issue with 4 lugs and 1,000hp. Multiple a 1,000 ft. lbs. by the torque converter, gearing in the transmission, and rear end gearing and you've got about 25,000 ft. lbs. at the wheel flanges - assuming perfect traction.