johnc

Keep the overall tire diameter under 25".

If you're going oil to air heat exchanger: NEW Setrab or Mocal heat exchanger (If you buy used, get it sonically cleaned and tested). -10 lines and fittings. Earl's thermostatic sandwich plate. NAPA (wix) 1515R oil filter. Mobil 1 10W-30. If you're going oil to water heat exchanger: Buy a C&R Radiator with a Niagra heat exchanger already built it. http://www.crracing.com/radiators/radiators.shtml

I used to be a roofer! But after falling off a second time I decided to become a programmer. Thanks for the compliments!

I can get these wings and struts for a pretty reasonable price. http://www.tiger-racing.com/g_wing_product_specs.pdf

That car has come and gone on Craigslist for almost a year now. Its a $5,000 240Z with a $30,000 paint job.

Williams Machine John Williams 570 Central Ave Unit D Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 (951) 245-6241 Long time Z guy, autocrosser, racer. He'll talk your ear off about his 1971 or his 1972 or one of a few others he has in the shop. Tell him I referred you and he'll probably hang up...

You can always hire someone like Tony D to shop for a California 240Z. He works for free parts and old used mini-bikes. He's learned not to come around my shop because he always leaves with something and I get just a little more cash.

Better to buy something you can inspect first hand then to risk a long distance purchase. 600 Euros is not bad for two complete 240Zs if they are as scarce as you say. Buy it. If it doesn't work out, you can make your money back by selling parts to Frank and Zander.

I just heard from another customer who is running the HTSs on a mostly street 240Z that has the Arizona Z Car OEM style springs (185F 200R). He replaced his Illuminas likes the HTSs a lot better. He just ran an open track event and felt the tuning range on the HTSs helped his lap times while allowing him to drive the car to and from the event. In the past he was stuck with just a couple settings on the Illuminas. That's kind of a vague evaluation but he seems happy.

Avoid using a citrus based degreaser on aluminum. A simple way I've degreased a head is to mostly fill a 5 gallon bucket with Simple Green and stick the head in the bucket for a couple days, turning it 180 degrees on day 2.

I used to think that too, but its perfectly legal to refill a Halon extinguisher. There just needs to be a proper disposal of the old Halon. Halon itself is very expensive but the extinguishers are still available. I just bought one for the 350Z.

No.

Spend the next 6 months searching this site and reading a lot of posts. Your budget will be around $27,000 to build the car described above.

In the shop I have three 20lb dry chem, one 10lb halon, and a 5 gallon bucket of dry sand for those pesky Magnesium fires.

We can keep this thread. I don't know of any trailer hubs that have specs to match what's on the front of a Z. I do have a complete RIGID/Reliable catalog and all the hubs listed are designed to work with drum brakes. There doesn't appear to be a provision for bolting a rotor to the hub.

Yeah, that engine was just a junk 13B that I used to mock everything up. The customer was getting a nice 13B built.

I've gotten 3 customer cars media blasted and the price was $800 to $1,000 about 18 months ago.

The admins on this site care.

I had to put a return line fuel system on an RX8. The computer in the car varies voltage to the OEM fuel pump to control fuel pressure. What we did was trick the computer into sending full voltage to the fuel pump all the time. I then modified the existing fuel rail to run to a Aeromotive FPR and ran a return line back to the fuel pump side of the stock fuel tank top plate.

Quaife diffs work very well in autocross and road racing if the car is setup properly to work with the diff. Unfortunately, most people are unwilling or unable to change their basic suspension setup so, in their opinion, the diff "sucks."

It should be strong enough for you to do all the work you plan. Once way to help maintain the strength is to weld some sqaure tubing in a X shape in each door opening. Just lay the tubing flat against the inside of the hinge area and the door jamb and weld it there.

Once shock adjustment with a range of 7.5 turns. That adjustment affects both comression and rebound but the compression range only covers 80 to 210 lbs at .334 mps. Its a very reasonable range for a 240Z running springs from about 200 to, maybe, 400. Rebound has a much larger range during adjustment and essentially you're adjusting the rebound control on this shock. Think of it as a very nice single adjustable. One of the issues with the Illumina is that rebound and compression damping changes maintain the same relative difference so you end up with more compression damping then you want. On the HTS there is a logarithmic increase in rebound damping compared to compression damping so the compression numbers don't get out of hand when adjusting for bigger springs.

The housing might be different, but the differential inside is "probably" interchangeable.

The concerns voiced above regarding the VLSD are because Nissan typically uses different diff side splines on the CV shafts for VLSD units. On the 350Z when swapping in a CLSD (from Cusco, Nismo, KAAZ, etc.) you have to change the diff side of the CV shaft if your 350Z has the OEM VLSD. FYI... the 350Z diff is short nosed R200.