johnc

The OBX is a good unit for the price. It has the same drawbacks as other ATBs but if you adjust the suspension to work with it the unit it is good in a race environment. IMHO, the OSG Super Lock is a great diff for racing and much better then the ATBs on the S30 chassis. For street use the ATBs are a great choice. And Whitehead in Canada is good people. I would not worry about anything they have to sell.

4130 is medium carbon steel. It's very weldable and doesn't have a cracking issue unless the fabricator goofs up. The number one cause of cracking in 4130 tube fabrication is poor fitments. The gaps must be no thicker then the filler material. That means no gaps greater then .063" EVERYWHERE around the tube junction. A larger gap requires more heat and filler to fill which tends to work harden the joint. 4130 is less ductile then 1018 (DOM) and can crack if a lot of heat and filler is used. 4130 can be MIG welded if the fitments is correct and the welder makes two or three even and smooth passes around the joint. At thicknesses less then .125" post weld stress relief is not required if everything is done properly.

4130 is not required anywhere in NHRA until you get to the pro classes. Go with DOM.

The front camber plates need a bearing to allow the strut tube and spring to turn as you turn the steering wheel.

I would run at least 40psi. even withthe trailer empty. If you're wearing the rears more then the fronts you need more weight up front on the trailer.

Get your trailer weighed with the car, tools, spares, etc. all included. Looking at your trailer my guess it that you're close to 6,000 lbs. fully loaded. You might find you're overloaded for the trailer tire capacity. Air pressures are important on trailer tires. Divide the tire's capacity by the the max air pressure and you'll get a ballpark idea of how many pounds each psi can carry. Typically for trailer tires its 35 lbs. per psi. which works out to about 7,000lbs. for a dual axle trailer with typical 14" or 15" trailer tires. Also, you might try positioning your car about 12" further forward on the trailer and make sure the trailer sits close to level when fully loaded and you're going down the road. A trailer that leans forward or back increases the load in one of the axles, possibly overloading that pair of tires.

I call BS on this stat. Show us the numbers for IMSA, NASCAR, GrandAm, IndyCar, Formula 3, 2, and 1, SCORE, NHRA, HRDA, IHRA, AMA Pro Racing, MotoGP...

Keith, please stop thinking. Trailer tires last 5 years at the most and they are all made in China from old cow crap. Get used to replacing them frequently. Don't run different sized tires on any trailer - you'll imbalance the load and kill yourself.

Not that I know of. I ran leaded fuel with a $250 O2 sensor in my racing 3L without any problems. The important thing is not to spend a lot of time idling.

You don't need synthetic unless you're seeing oil temps over 240F.

Catalytic converter safe is under 900ppm as Xnke mentioned above. The Federal Emissions Warrantly requires the cat to last 100k miles so that's why there's such low zinc in the latest engine oil standard. If you're not worried about your cat lasting 100k, you can run an oil with much higher levels of zinc.

Normally I would send this post to the tool shed but I've got some new data. At our Porsche shop we've switched to Penzoil GT Performance Racing 25W-50 based on their reps statement of 1980 ppm of Zinc and our own Blackstone VOA test that showed 2100 ppm of Zinc. That's almost three times the Zinc of current catalytic converter safe oils and equal to what was available in a racing oil in the 1970s. Only the oil in the viscocity I listed above has that much zinc. Non of the other Penzoil products have anything over 900ppm of zinc.

As said above. The angle of the shoulder harness when tightened down on your shoulders should be within 15 degrees up or down of level. Some sanctioning bodies allow up to 30 degrees but the closer to level the safer and more effective the installation.

Probably custom. Not the best design.

Tony is right, you did mis characterize his post with your first reply. Let it go.

There is no such thing as a "bolt-in" intercooler for a S30. If you can't drill a hole, cut sheet metal and bend it to make a bracket, or any other very basic fabrication work you're gonna pay someone to install your "bolt-in" intercooler.

In my experience, Jet Hot Sterling is a cosmetic coating that looks good under normal street use. For racing applications I prefer Swain White Lightening or Jet Hot 2000 in that order.

In my experience, Jet Hot Sterling is a cosmetic coating that looks good under normal street use. For racing applications I prefer Swain White Lightening or Jet Hot 2000 in that order.

Stainless has about 1/2 the rate of heat radiation as carbon steel. Ultimately both will reach the same total heat radiation given enough time (2nd law of Thermodynamics) but it will take stainless about twice as long to reach equilibrium. http://www.roymech.co.uk/Related/Thermos/Thermos_HeatTransfer.html.

As Jon said. 4 pinion open diff.

That's why the Organ Pipe headers on Grandpa Munster's Drag-U-La dragster are so effective. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l48cq1kQRcY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dl48cq1kQRcY

Car was most likely clipped - as Alan mentoned, a whole new front end installed.

Tire compund is more important then tread width as far as grip is concerned. Bigger is not always better.

An air bag is a spring with a rate of about 34lb. In. per psi., same as a tire. The issue is that air bagged suspensions rely heavily on bump stops (generally internal to the bag) when the air pessures are low. Also, there are suspension geometry/alignment issues when you change the ride height more then 1" from where the alignment is set. Lowering a S30 to a rocker panel height less the 5" above the ground requires changing the suspension mounting points to retain proper alignment for handling and performance. Without auto adjustable alignment a bagged S30 with a significant ride height adjustment range witll always handle like ass if the adjustment is made on the fly. Now, if you stop the car and crank on the adjusters for a few minutes, you can improve the handling beyond ass level. But I don't see the hellaflush crowd making that kind of effort.

Regarding the lawsuit.. the most you can probably get is repairs to the vehcile or a totaled vehcile if the shop has completed operations insurance. Since no injuries occured there is not much in the way of damages that can be collected. If the shop has no insurance, well... you can't squeeze blood out of a turnip.