johnc

The car is basically running only on the front carb. 1. Reset the floats to the proper numbers 2. Check to make sure there's proper oil in the dashpots and its at the correct level 3. Sync the carbs

Hopefully the tube is .039 wall 4130 otherwise you'll have to increase spring rate to carry it around.

Very, very famous last words! Budget at least $35K based on your goal of a "pro-touring" car with "world class performance." Clean, low rust 280Zs are thousands less then comparably clean and low rust 240Zs. 240Zs are really becoming collector cars and prices are climbing as a result. 280Zs haven't achieved that status and will always lag behind 240Zs in price.

They are amazing easy cars to work on. A month ago I finished doing a suspension under a E36 BMW and I just finished a complete suspesnion under a 240Z. Night and day difference.

Shouldn't really. Remember, the issue with 911s is not the weight distribution, its yaw inertia (polar moment). Since your 240z has the weight between the axles your car has a low yaw inertia which is opposite of the 911 with its engine behind the rear axle.

For better handling, toe-out on the front of a Z is preferred. Typically its 1/8" to 1/4" total toe-out depending on how tight the important turns are on the track you're running. But, toe-out on a street car increases tire wear and causes the car to follow road imperfections. Toe is very easy to adjust and its something you can do when you get to and leave the track. Personally, I run about 1/16" toe-out on the street and about 3/16" toe-out on the track. On the rear, toe-in helps stabilize the rear and put the power down. Generally 1/16" to 1/8" total toe-in is a decent range. Some folks run more toe-in in back.

My Lance camper was stolen sometime in the last 4 weeks from a storage yard in La Habra. Its a Lance 820 (9') for short bed HD trucks, serial number 147785 white with gold decals, Mother's and Classy Car stickers, Yakima roof rack, generator, AC, and a dent in the right front. Here's a picture: Its long shot, but if you see it, call officer Tom Bees at LHPD (562) 905-9750 x1845. Thanks. - John

Search, search, search. These questions have been asked and answered hundreds of times on this site.

I guess folks have forgotted about the ITS diff strap trick. Running the diff strap over the diff snout and over top of the diff mounting bolts (instead of the diff snout itself) causes the diff mount to compress hard against the front diff crossmember when the crossmember is bolted up. You'll need a floor jack (or trans jack if on a lift) to press the crossmember up enough to get the crossmember bolts started.

IMHO, Discussions of topics that have a direct affect on our hobby are fine until the thread gets heated. IMHO, We don't necessarily ban a topic or thread just because someone is offended. If the discussion of the Lord of Lord's 240 was technical in nature it would continue just fine. Just because someone is offended by the name of the car doesn't mean a technical discussion gets banned.

Nope. Control of firearms is a political subject and being able to hit what you're aiming at is a topic for a different board.

$400 to $800 depending on options. But, that's a wild guess.

The E33 is supposedly a "special" homologation head that Nissan built to get the larger valves into the basic E31 for FIA competition. I think its a myth: 1. I and no one I know of has seen one. 2. I and no one that I know of has seen any reference to it in the Nissan Motorsports books. 3. I and no one I know of has seen the homologation specs for the head. 4. This E33 rumor just surfaced again in the past couple months after being dormant for 6 years. 5. The early E88 head is exactly what this mythical E33 head is supposed to be. FYI... E33 is a Nissan paint color code (Ultra Yelow) and an intake manifold code.

Nope. Typical air-cooled 911 is around 40F - 60R.

For street and maybe drag race use they are probably fine. For autocross and road racing where there's a lot of up and down shifting they are not so fine.

A few years ago at the MSA West Coast Nationals autocross/driving school the Motorsports folks gave the instructors some SWAG as a thank you. Included in the stuff were Centerforce baseball caps. Myself, Rick Brown, John Williams, Bryan Lampe, and a couple other Z racers all gave the Centerforce caps back to the MSA folks. We were afraid they would fail...

LS1 weighed less then the L6 removed and the T56 weighs a whole bunch more then the Nissan transmission removed.

I was looking at the Taurus fan conversion then I saw the 60a draw. Jeez! Went with a nice Spal fan that pulled 2100CFM and drew 24a.

Remember, we're mixing and matching how Nissan did things in the US and Oz. I think it would be better to focus on model years instead of the model car. A good assumption would be that cars built in late 1974 and later had the bigger strut housings.

You probably won't have a problem if only one of the floor pans are cut out. Its even less of a problem if the engine and transmission is out of the car.

Measure it yourself. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack the car up until the wheel is off the ground. Remove the wheel. Place a straight edge against the hub face and measure from the straight edge to the lower spring perch or the strut tube if your wheel/tire combo will fit below the stock lower spring perch. That's the most backspace your wheel/tire combo can have (- 1/8" for clearance).

From my experience disassembling the rear hubs on 240Zs. I've only seen the copper washer on later models of the 240Z (1972 and 1973) and its always on both hubs of the same car. I'm not positive that its used as a spacer (why use something as soft and as expensive as copper), maybe its more like a crush washer that helps with assembly during vehicle production.

I overlooked the years of the 260Zs. The 1977 "probably" has the larger strut tubes.

AFAIK all the 260 struts are the same, but that's only a for sure thing here in the US. No. You'll most likely end up with a car the understeers on corner entry, understeers mid corner, really starts understeering when you get on the gas, and then snap oversteers when the rear tires break traction.

Just measure the length of the transmission, figure where your engine is going to sit, and then measure under the car and mark a spot. Cut a hole that extends 4" in front and 4" behind and you should be pretty close.